My ASM manual says 52100 can be water quenched by austenitizing in the 1425-1475 range rather than 1500-1600 for oil. I recently quenched a 52100 blade in Parks #50 oil, which is supposed to be close to water in speed. No cracking or warping, and the knife is doing very well.
Yes, Charlie Ochs does, and Randall Graham has done so too, I believe.
It's really a question of cost vs. benefit: how dangerous is it vs. how much more performance you are likely to get. Then the choice is simple individual.
I work with nothing but 52100 in my plain steel knives and I've quenched with water and oil. I know others will make different claims to there findings then me, but I never found the benefits of water quenching over oil worth the risks. I never had a blade crack water quenching but I did get some warping, and the mental stress with worry from water quenching is something I just don't need. A properly heat treated 52100 blade using oil will perform beautifully.
If your looking for a faster quench try ATF, its not as harsh as water but still pretty darn quick. I prefer to use quenching oils made for nothing but what they were designed for,quenching. But to each his own.
I have done it with both water and oil and numerous other concocshuns. The water is just too iffy. I can't get the blade cross section as close to the finished dimension if I use water to quench. What will the difference in hardness be between the two? Too hard
maybe for a good knife . As hardened 65 or so with water 62 with oil? I'm guessing. Does someone have the real numbers handy? Fred
My appoligies for my first, glibb, reply. :jerkit:
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