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560 pivot question

Blue Sky

Gold Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2002
Messages
3,534
The 560 has headed pins for the pivot and the handle. Does anyone know if these are solid pins w/peened over heads or two-piece press together rivets?
 
Thanks guys. I was hoping to be able to do a little adjusting on my own but that doesn't look likely now.
 
it is my understanding that they are solid but spun over not peened over..

No, Dave, they are not solid. As you can see on the pic' they are made of two parts. But I dont know how it can happen that the hat of the pivot breaks. Do you have an Idea?




Best,
Haebbie
 
Haebbie - Since your 560 has a 1995 110"C" blade, it has likely been rebladed...I believe 334dave is correct about the spun heads on the production 560's...

For a reblade, it's guesses for grabs... :rolleyes:
 
Haebbie - Since your 560 has a 1995 110"C" blade, it has likely been rebladed...I believe 334dave is correct about the spun heads on the production 560's...

For a reblade, it's guesses for grabs... :rolleyes:


You are right, Hühnchen. I took an enlarger and saw that I wrote nonsene. The pic shows an unqualified trial to repair the knife. I'm sorry.



Haebbie
 
I have had those out for customers to replace them with adjustable/removable screw type pivot barrels. They are solid pins yes.

STR
 
I have had those out for customers to replace them with adjustable/removable screw type pivot barrels. They are solid pins yes.

STR

STR - I've had several people asking to get those OEM rivets out...I've shied away from trying it because I don't like the recessed head...how do you remove the old rivet to get the barrel nuts installed??? (I have the barrel nuts & 2-56 button head screws; just don't want to ruin a good 560 if my carbide drill slides off)... :rolleyes:
 
I like it except for the needle nose pliers....I sprung them cutting some
.090 stainless wirespring.
I broke a brand new set of Bluepoint (Snap On economy line)side cutters on the same wire.They crumbled in my hand.
I use it everday.Today, temporary repaired a shop air hose ...had to use
a worm clamp.Got home and cut the green roots on a cedar bush that had
died ,serreated blade slid right through them ...3/8 - 1/2 ".

Thanks... I've been thinking of getting one.
 
I don't use a drill. I've done a few 560 pivot mods and some with pivot barrel change outs and low rider pocket clips with thumb stud conversions now for forum members. With all the rebuilds of FRN Spydercos I do for members around here I've found that a thin kerf cut off disc by Keystone (non reinforced type) works best with a variable speed Foredom foot controlled dremmel to take the heads off those. I zero in on the smaller head size on most unless they are relatively the same on both sides of the pivot pin.

The Keystone discs are like 7/8" diameter when I first get them. You can use the ones from Sears or Dremmel that they sell anywhere, Lowes, Wal-Mart. I think they are brown. Those seem to cut faster for some reason but he Kestone ones are for dental. I just have a bunch of those. So many I'll not need to buy for a very long long long time. :D But they wear down really fast and since I use them all the time I always have lots of them sitting in a bin that are like 1/4" or less in diameter. One of these used ones works great to just zip a head off a pin while minimizing damage to the sides of the recess it sits in or the surface of the folder.

The gold finish on that 560 is a bit of a concern for me when I do them and there is no way around that worry. I like doing it this way best of all the ways I've taken pins out and it takes a lot of patience and a steady hand but it can be done. I've even managed to swap out pivots on FRN folders with no visible damage this way. Keyword is 'visible' there.

Because the head of the screws I use are 3/16" diameter on most 2-56 screws there is a slight margin for error. However if you get pivot barrels in 1/8" size from Jantz supply the screws that come with theirs are 5/32 or larger in diameter increasing the margin even a bit more for you. This way the head of the screw can cover the minor dings that may occur around the pivot pin you are removing.

What I normally do is remove the head completely. Then sitting the body on a soft pin block with a hole drilled in it to allow the pin to go through on the other side I position the folder so I can tap the pin through. Sometimes it goes all the way through no problem. Other times it resists. At this point most always the head on the opposite side is sticking out far enough to cleaning zip it right off using the disc and then you can round the edges so its for sure going to pop through and you simply tap it through the other way.

Even though doing it this way has been successful for me I always warn those that ask me to do it to prepare for the worst. There is always the chance of a ding of some kind or another anytime you modify a folder. Just goes with the territory as they say. Fortunately for me its been less of that and more of the successful mods. Knock on wood. :D

You could always cover up a ding on the pivot like this hear too in the attatched pic. Just stick a clip over it.

Here are a couple of others I've done for various others or myself. Just in case you want to see it. The one pictured was mine I believe. At least at the time I did the work. At least I think that is the one I had. I may be mistaken. Anyway, if you look close you can see a small ding on it to the right of the pivot on the non clip side. I managed to reanodize it to match though.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3916096&postcount=9

STR
 
Ah, that's interesting...I have a 1/4" carbide ball end burr and an air die grinder...I may try that on my next 110 disassemble (the rockerbar rivet), just to see how well it works...although my hands aren't as steady as they used to be... :rolleyes:
 
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