6"-10" fixed blades?

A

ayz

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Jul 5, 2004
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Recommendations on these?

Apparently some of the more recommended fixed blades, like the CUDA CQB and BM Nimravus, and Spyderco Bob Lum, are all 5" or so. I'm looking for something bigger, preferably in the sub-$150 range. It should be in a relatively maintenance free-steel (154CM/ATS-34, AUS-8, or 440C stainless, not anything like CS's carbon V which requires oilling/wiping every week).

Also, anyone know anything about the 1085/1095 Ka-bar uses? I'm wondering if they work more like D2/M2 toolsteel, requiring maintenance only every now and then, or if it's a very heavy maintenace steel like cold steel's carbon V.
 
A real Ka-Bar in 1095 is awesome, not too hard to take care of, but beware there's a lot of junk out there. You're best bet is a Becker C/U 7 for about 50 bucks (my favorite). I was a Ka-Bar man for years but now the Becker 7 is the only fixed blade I ever use anymore. It's tough, tough, and cuts like a 7in scapel. You can always spend a bit more for a TOPS Moccasin Ranger (I'm may get one soon it's in 1095 too). Stay away from Ontario and Cold Steel. Also check out the Camp Tramp and Rattweiler from Swamp Rat. Good Luck.
 
Camillus' CUDA CQB is a neat knife.

ayzianboy said:
Also, anyone know anything about the 1085/1095 Ka-bar uses? I'm wondering if they work more like D2/M2 toolsteel, requiring maintenance only every now and then, or if it's a very heavy maintenace steel like cold steel's carbon V.
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It is a very heavy maintenance steel.
 
any made from stainless? im not liking these high-carbon blades because i don't want to have to clean it every other night.
 
This S&W has about an 8 1/2" flat ground 440C coated blade.
 

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i'd recommend a ranger knives RD7 or Swamp rat camp tramp or ratweiler. they're not stainless but they're all crinkle coated. it doesn't need a LOT of maintenance just simple care like wiping it down after use. becker Bk7 as mentioned already is great as well but i personally don't like the handles.

for the money you can't go wrong with any of those.
 
One thing I think the original poster is missing on, and I think some of you guys will verify what I'm about to say is the superiority of high-carbon/non-stainless steels for fixed blades. The majority of them come with some form of black coating to make them less maintence. 154cm, 440C, etc. are great for folders but in a knife in the 6-10 inch range there's a much greater chance that you might try to do something much heavier duty with it, in which case you'll then wish you have a good carbon steel blade something more like 1095 or A2. To save money get the Becker 7 or a Rattweiler (more expensive than Becker, may have a long wait) or a TOPS Moccasin Ranger or Operation Badger (1095) I don't have a TOPS or Swamp Rat yet, but have not read a single unfavorable review of either compan. Price no object get a Chris Reeve Project I (A2). I have Ontarios but have never used them, but most reviews I've read about them on here are not favorable at all, I've put my Becker through hell and all I've done is scratch it, not bad for a 50 dollar knife:)
 
Go for a flat ground Ranger RD7, I have the regular RD7 and a flat ground one would be gravy :D
 
honestly, i think people are overreacting to the carbon steel. I got a ka-bar the day after christmas and have never oiled it (yeah, bad but im still waiting on some mineral oil) and i store it in a sheeth. I dont use it much, but i keep it clean and dry and rust isnt a big deal. I wouldnt worry, as long as you keep it clean and oil after cleaning im guessing it will be fine.
 
the thing is i will probably be using this for a variety of things, including cutting food, so a lot of blade oil isn't a good thing
 
A 10" blade is awfully big for cutting food. If you are going to pick one knife for this, I would go with one at the short end of your stated range (6"). I've always carried a big blade for chopping and such, but a small folder for stuff like whittling or food prep. Finally decided to change the folder to a small fixed blade (4" to 5"), because that should be less annoying to clean after cutting up meat or fish.

All of the 1095 steel blades (mostly ka-bars) I have used had a coating that did a good job of protecting the blade from rust. Where I would see oxidation is on the edge (which sucks) or right next to the guard.

If you are dead set on a blade at least 6" long, I would consider something like the Fallkniven A1, which is made out of VG-10. I just wish it had a choil.

Now, this last one is well beyond your stated price range, but I have a Mission MPT-Ti and that thing could care less if it is ever oiled. For food prep, the serrations would probably get in the way (but they cut through rope and comm wire real nice), but the choil gives you pretty good control - even for a 12" knife (6" blade). I wrote a review for the knife that is in the Review forum.
 
It's not exclusively for food prep though. I guess the idea is to only have to carry one big knife for camping to do both general purpose cutting and some food prep.
 
ayzianboy said:
I guess the idea is to only have to carry one big knife for camping to do both general purpose cutting and some food prep.
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Nothing wrong with the idea of one good big knife for everything except it gets clumsy in the cold and the dark after a long hard day. :)

Get a decent necker, even the Becker Necker is more than big enough for food prep, or the Camillus Arclite, or a Mission MPU or MBK.

I've got a few good sets: a Dozier Wilderness Knife and a Canoe, a Leuku & Puukko in one sheath, these are hardly a burden, taking a small knife along, too.

I have a plastic bottle of food grade mineral oil from the pharmacy on my kitchen counter. People take it as medicine. It will prevent high carbon from rusting. It's cheap. And unless you immerse your high carbon knives regularly in salt water, they won't rust right off, as long as you wipe gunk off instead of letting it dry on the blade. You can even wipe them off with grass. Just don't use poison ivy.
 
sup ascoe, how you liking these forums


btw might wanna type "sorry" instead of "ves" on these forums ;)
 
They seem slow. ;p But FULL of great info.

I'll never give up my voicebinds ;x Actually it's kinda fun to use them where no one knows wtf they mean.
 
I second the MPK in Ti. Ti is probably stronger than any STAINLESS steel, and rust will absolutely be no worry at all with Ti, But be careful they make a cheaper version in A2 that I don't believe is coated, if uncared for uncoated A2 will rust easily.
 
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