630 pocket clip...

A

Angelus1781

Joined
Feb 22, 2003
Messages
702
I read a few reviews on here. You're all right. It does suck!! In fact I thought my knife was loose or something the way it was rattling. Turns out it was the easily bent poop pocket clip. So any suggestions for carrying this knife without a clip? One of those nylon pouch sheaths for folders?


Also having a helluva time bring in back a shaving edge on this sumbitch. Even using the sharpmarket? Back bevel or use an oil stone?
 
all i know is to have it drilled for one of the fold over clips from darrel ralph, thing is so big i dont know how great it would work w/out a clip loose in a pocket, as far as sharpening i used the steep (40?)setting on my sharpmaker, no problems.
 
Angelus1781 said:
I read a few reviews on here. You're all right. It does suck!! In fact I thought my knife was loose or something the way it was rattling. Turns out it was the easily bent poop pocket clip. So any suggestions for carrying this knife without a clip? One of those nylon pouch sheaths for folders?


Also having a helluva time bring in back a shaving edge on this sumbitch. Even using the sharpmarket? Back bevel or use an oil stone?
Click to expand...

Hi, I had a lot of "issues" with my 630 but love it now.

Within five minutes the crappy pocket clip was off. Mine rattled too.

Take a look at my Skirmish review in the review and testing forum, I have a picture of my pocket sheath in there. They are really easy to make and work so well!

It took me a long time to get the knife sharp the way I wanted it - the forum folks gave me a lot of great info on that.

I used a Sharpmaker, the corners are perfect for the recurve. I found out through the black marker method that my knive was 30 degrees on one side - 40 on the other! Since my intended uses are: (1) bad people (ok, not really anticipating having to do this, but what's a multi use self defense folder all about, eh? (2) food (all the time!) (3) whatever I need to cut but I'm too lazy to take out the Leatherman - I am happy with a thin edge. So I brought the whole thing to 30 ("back bevel" according to the Sharpmaker) which took a long time, and then a little on the 40 degree setting. Then I wrapped thick leather around a rectangular piece of wood, it was so thick it was not flush with the wood, intentionally, because that left a little curve and springiness for the recurve part. Stropped it for a long long time.

Its more than shaving sharp now. It cut me yesterday when I bumped the blade with my knuckle - not sliced, not moved at all, just a gentle straight on bump.

The other issue I had was that the grinds at the tip did not meet up right and the knive had lousy penetration.

I used a fine file to reshape them, then (again at a forum member suggestion :D ) sharpened just the first 1/4 inch or so of the back of the blade. Great penetration now!

Ok, it took a lot of work, and maybe that's not the best sign for this production run. But know its really sharp, really pointy - and it always was really strong and had great ergonomics! So I'm very happy with it.

(until the next new knife on the block comes around... but don't tell that to
Skirmy!)
 
Okay now that makes sense to me. I thought it was just me that felt that way.

I'm confused about the back beveling. Is it still the same 40 strokes on each stone? 40 on corner, 40 flat, ect...


How's the sheath for it working out? easy to draw?
 
Angelus1781 said:
Okay now that makes sense to me. I thought it was just me that felt that way.

I'm confused about the back beveling. Is it still the same 40 strokes on each stone? 40 on corner, 40 flat, ect...


How's the sheath for it working out? easy to draw?
Click to expand...


Hiya! The sheath is great. I've been using pocket sheaths for my large folders for many years. I make them so they slide in and out really easily. There's enough friction caused by the compression of the sheath in your pocket so that it won't fall out when sitting on a couch, and so on, but when you dip you hand in and pull, it comes right out. The sheath keeps the knife always in the pefect position for the draw. Just don't use leather that's too "mushy" or it will collapse when you re sheath the knife.

Another nice thing is that you can have hands in your pockets, real non threatening, but actually you have the top of the knive in your hand already for an instant draw. Good for those "I wonder if he's just a bum or actually a total cracked out freak" moments at night.

Regarding "back bevelling," I'm no expert, but I read posts by more experienced folk about using that for the main edge formation when you want a really sharp edge. Since S30V is so much tougher than steels were long ago in, like, the 70's, you can make the edge pretty thin and still have a strong edge. I didn't count strokes... I blacked the edge with a Sharpee ("what do you do with your Sharpee? :D ) and kept at it till I could see that the edge was cleanly matching the angle of the Sharpmaker rod. Then I used the 40 setting, but not much at all, really. Then I started stroppin'!

You have to use the corners of the rod for the recurve section. You could if you wanted use the flats just for the forward, conventionally curved section of the blade, but that might be overkill. The flats won't sharpen a recurved section of blade. Because the corners present very little surface area as compared to the flats though, they load up pretty fast with steel, so you might have to clean yours off to get them effective again if you are using them much.

Hope that helps. Check out the other recent sharpening threads though in the forum - what's where I got most of my info!
 
i dont like belt sheaths myself, if i am gonna use a belt sheath i just carry a fixed blade myself, my wife uses her belt sheath w/a MT SOCOM elite daily though.
 
Besides being made of pure "foolstuffing" this damned clip is on the WRONG end!

Is there anyone who could install a properly sized and heat treated clip on the tail end of this knife for a reasonable amount of money?

Have any of you done this?

Thanks
 
Jeepers, such anomosity over a clip. I think it's the length that causes a problem. It looks like it is actually a belt clip, for clipping to your belt.

Any competent machinist should be able to install a clip. Order a clip of your choice, disassemble the brute, and take the scale(s) to the machinist of your choice for a drill and tap (best to get your own screws, too).

If you want to get fancy, use pressed in threaded inserts to prevent possible thread pull through. Then its drill, counterbore, and press for the machinist.
 
Have to agree - Benchmade seems to consistently fall down on their pocket clips. I've never had one that didn't seriously get bent out of true and fail to spring back. :(
 
other than the 630 all BM clips have been fine for me FWIW.........if i had kept mine and was gonna carry it i would have to put another clip on it for sure.

not to 'dis BM but imho the Ti spyderco ATR is way superior to the 630 in F&F and ergos, not to mention the clip is on the correct end (for me anyway) and is 2X as strong as the spindly one on the 630. honestly the 630 was a dissapointment to me, lotsa little stuff funky like the clip/grind/F&F. too bad imho.
 
The clip on the 630 is really too big.
Since I have the 635, and don't carry it much, I put the smaller clip of the 635 on my 630.
For me, the 630 with the smaller clip becomes more "discrete", less ovibious in the pocket.

The only bad thing, is that the clip of the 630 doesn't fit on the 635....
Now my mini is clipless... :p

Regards,

Andre Tiba - Brazil
 
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