$7.95!! Bought a functional sharpener!

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Glock26

Joined
Nov 3, 2009
Messages
783
Hi all, i bought a knife sharpener and i'm very pleased! Originally i used a stone to sharpen my growing collection of knives, but as of today i bought a sharpener that looks like a 'V' with two ceramic sticks, stuck into a piece of wood. Does anyone know what i am talking about? It works very well, and sharpens up my knives much easier than my stone sharpener, does anyone else use this type of knife sharpener? The sales person told me just hold the knife straight and go - up. It works!!:jerkit:
 
knifenut1013 said:
They are de best :barf:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=683180
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Nah, that's different - we are talking about 2 ceramic sticks, not carbide blades.

I have one of these:
http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=LSLCKEY
Which is much closer - but in a plastic frame rather than a block of wood.

I actually rate this thing quite highly for a $5 sharpener - it gets my LM & SAK to shaving sharp and I think it could do quite well to put a micro bevel on a knife that I have sharpened with my DMT Aligner. You can certainly sharpen with VERY light pressure to finish a knife.
 
Carbide, ceramic, its all the same and all bad.
 
knifenut1013 said:
Carbide, ceramic, its all the same and all bad.
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How is it the same? So many people here say the Spyderco Sharpmaker is great and that uses ceramic sticks. I see Carbide blades as being VERY different to ceramic sticks - the sharpening action is completely different.
 
knifenut1013 said:
Carbide, ceramic, its all the same and all bad.
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Ceramic is totally different than carbide.

Carbide vee "sharpeners" scrape material to set the angle and do a terrible job.

Ceramics remove very little material and do a great job at refining an edge. They do not do such a great job at removing material and reprofiling. They are great at refining and maintaining.
 
I agree mostly with Hard H2O. Carbide works by scraping away material. It leaves a jagged edge. Ceramic works by abrading away material and leaves a smoother edge than carbide, even when using a coarse stone.

But, depending on the grit, ceramic can take a lot off at a time, or a little at a time. I have a Norton Coarse India stone that takes a lot off at a time. My Spyderco fine rods only remove a little at a time.
 
I'm sure that this must be the culprit!
ls-20.jpg
 
Your still using a set angle V scraper style sharpener that always makes contact with the same side last creating a burr to the oposing side. This burr is what gives you the false sense that your knife is sharp again.

Yes, ceramic and carbide are different but when set them the same way in a sharpening device they do the same bad job.

I guess you could get away with the excuse that "it works" but in that same sense we should all just use the carbide scraper too, because "it works". just my .02
 
knifenut1013 said:
Your still using a set angle V scraper style sharpener that always makes contact with the same side last creating a burr to the oposing side. This burr is what gives you the false sense that your knife is sharp again.

Yes, ceramic and carbide are different but when set them the same way in a sharpening device they do the same bad job.

I guess you could get away with the excuse that "it works" but in that same sense we should all just use the carbide scraper too, because "it works". just my .02
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I must be missing something here, how am I scraping the edge using a croc stick style setup?
 
crock sticks and what the OP has are two different things
 
I think what knifenut is trying to say is that it's leaving a wire edge since it sharpens both sides at teh same time, but you can't sharpen all knives since the angle is set and you cold just be barely hitting the edge leaving a wire behind that feels "sharp".
 
Glock26 said:
...looks like a 'V' with two ceramic sticks, stuck into a piece of wood.
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That sounds like crock sticks to me. :confused:

Also, the little plastic device that was posted is supposed to be used just like crock sticks, one side at a time. It is not designed to be used like a carbide sharpener with the blade pulled through the base of the V.
 
I do not understand what you're all talking about, is there negative effects by using this type of knife sharpener? In truth, it made my dull knives sharp like never before.
 
I guess you could get away with the excuse that "it works"
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If it works... I'm of the opinion that it isnt an excuse.

If it works it works.

It only needs to be as sharp as it needs to be to cut the material at hand.
 
I agree, but what are the others discussing? From my point of view, a newbie to knives i figured heck i'm having a growing family of knives, so i need to keep them sharp!

In the same way a guns/ammo. Sharp/Knife. I don't understand the other 'tech' talk.
 
Glock26 said:
I agree, but what are the others discussing? From my point of view, a newbie to knives i figured heck i'm having a growing family of knives, so i need to keep them sharp!

In the same way a guns/ammo. Sharp/Knife. I don't understand the other 'tech' talk.
Click to expand...

They will get a knife sharp and i'm sure some are better than others.
I am guilty of using one at first then i figured out how to sharpen freehand:thumbup: Havent needed it for anything!
and i can get my knives sharper on a stone:thumbup:
At the end of the day use what works for you!
good luck
ivan
 
There was a bit of confusion on my part, from the description Glock26 gave and the link Gadgetaholic provided, my thoughts were far from the lansky. I'm not a fan of using round rods to sharpen but its still better than the small plastic ones.
 
Glock26 said:
I do not understand what you're all talking about, is there negative effects by using this type of knife sharpener? In truth, it made my dull knives sharp like never before.
Click to expand...

Since my little gadget is very similar I will offer my opinion here. I find the little crock sticks to do a decent job most of the time and I have been able to get my SAK & my LM to razor sharpness. :thumbup:

However:
I have bought some bigger knives and the size of the sharpener + the fixed angle are very real limitations. So far I haven't had to fix a chipped blade and I don't have much confidence in the tiny crock sticks for that job. Some knives just wont sharpen at the angle the sticks are set at - probably polishing the shoulder of the bevel and not touching the very tip at all.

I have bought one of these:
http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=DMTADELUXE
This kit is great and at a good price too. It gets past the limitations of my little Lansky gadget and what it doesn't have you can buy separately. The kit comes with 4 diamond hones (Course, Fine, Extra Fine and a bonus Extra Extra Fine) as well as a conical rod for serrations and these are working well on all my knives. For fixing damage or reprofiling I will be buying an Extra Course diamond hone and also an Extra Extra Course. There is also a curved hone which would work on a blade with a recurve. Because I am really crap at holding a consistent angle I find freehand sharpening difficult - so the aligner system works well for me. I have gotten a bunch of different blades shaving sharp so I consider it a success. I have also cut up an old belt that broke and added green rouge polishing compound to use as a strop to finish off the knives, this seems to help to get a little extra sharpness.

I think that soon enough you will have a need for more options in the coarseness of your sharpener and also in the angle of sharpening - there are many options for you to consider for moving on to.
 
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