I noticed the 7-OT steel (mine is stainless) has a rough grind or different grind than my LB7. I heard this may be called a saber grind. Also, I noticed the blades on some LB's and OT have a notch near the tang. The brass on the 7-OT is not polished which gives it a rugged look. I like both but use my 7-OT daily. The main reason I am writing is because I would like to know who likes the 7-OT more so than their other lock backs.
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7-OT poularity
- Thread starter Hedger
- Start date
Dave Thinkstoomuch
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The notch is called a "choil" and LB-7 type blades came with or w/o them depending on how the blades were made and ground. It really varies over the years. Generally older ones have no choil and in the '90s the choil became prominent.
I too have noticed that older 7-OTs are not as heavily polished on the brass as LB-7s and I think it adds a great "texture" to it. Looks fantastic!
The "sabre grind" is consistent across all the LB-7/7-OT variations. I will give you a link to more info. Depending on who did the final grind minor variations are usually apparent. My understanding is that as long as it was within set tolerances the cutler had some freedom to make-them-his-own so to speak. This is true of most Schrade patterns. I believe the switch to CNC technology in the '90s is what finally made the choil standard and the blades more uniform. (Please correct me guys if I am wrong on this!)
While I love all the Bear Paw Family Lock-Backs, I like the carbon 7-OT best as a "user". It does indeed look like an "Old Timer" knife like Grandad's (if grandad was buying his knives in the '70s lol). I like a nice patina on a user, makes em look old and Schrade's carbon steel takes and holds a wicked sharp edge.
http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/articles/schrade_handbook.php
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grind
I too have noticed that older 7-OTs are not as heavily polished on the brass as LB-7s and I think it adds a great "texture" to it. Looks fantastic!
The "sabre grind" is consistent across all the LB-7/7-OT variations. I will give you a link to more info. Depending on who did the final grind minor variations are usually apparent. My understanding is that as long as it was within set tolerances the cutler had some freedom to make-them-his-own so to speak. This is true of most Schrade patterns. I believe the switch to CNC technology in the '90s is what finally made the choil standard and the blades more uniform. (Please correct me guys if I am wrong on this!)
While I love all the Bear Paw Family Lock-Backs, I like the carbon 7-OT best as a "user". It does indeed look like an "Old Timer" knife like Grandad's (if grandad was buying his knives in the '70s lol). I like a nice patina on a user, makes em look old and Schrade's carbon steel takes and holds a wicked sharp edge.
http://www.allaboutpocketknives.com/articles/schrade_handbook.php
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grind
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i just received my 70T and was wondering when comparing it to my 6OT what is the difference? they look almost the same size(as with the LB-7). one thing i did notice was the different shape of the blade. mine is almost a drop point but not. the blade being a much heavier taper to the point?
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The 7OT has a rear bolster.
The 6OT had no rear bolster.
The blade are the same except for the tang stamps.
Here is a scan of 3 new blades, (unsharpened with the heat sink still on the tip), a 6OT, 7OT & LB7.
As you can see all three are the same.
Schrade did make some with a drop point blade, but they are definitely a drop point.
Hope this helps,
Dale
The 6OT had no rear bolster.
The blade are the same except for the tang stamps.
Here is a scan of 3 new blades, (unsharpened with the heat sink still on the tip), a 6OT, 7OT & LB7.
As you can see all three are the same.
Schrade did make some with a drop point blade, but they are definitely a drop point.
Hope this helps,
Dale
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Not sure how they sharpened them.
Probably by hand on a belt or wheel.
Eric or Larry (lrv) may know for sure.
The little bump out at the tip is to act as a heat sink when sharpening them dry on power equipment.
It keeps the tip from loosing temper from heat build up.
When using power sharpeners like a belt sander, I like to sharpen from tip to heel as that runs the heat back into the body of the blade where it can be absorbed and dispersed without effecting the temper of the steel.
Dale
Probably by hand on a belt or wheel.
Eric or Larry (lrv) may know for sure.
The little bump out at the tip is to act as a heat sink when sharpening them dry on power equipment.
It keeps the tip from loosing temper from heat build up.
When using power sharpeners like a belt sander, I like to sharpen from tip to heel as that runs the heat back into the body of the blade where it can be absorbed and dispersed without effecting the temper of the steel.
Dale
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