709 with new scales

Joined
Sep 8, 2013
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1,472
OK, I scored this 709 off the Bay for a song.
The factory edges are still hair shaving sharp, but I truly dislike advertising on my Bucks......




















 












Here she is with the matching 112/482 I did recently :) I imagine they will both get a ton of EDC time :)

 
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That just plain has to be satisfying to do. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

It sure is! The family was all in town today, so I watched the NASCAR race and sanded sanded sanded :)
I sure do love Amboyna Burl too!

That looks really great! How easy is it to pull out the pins?

Super easy. Just grind off the tops then use a pin punch and lightly tap them through....if they are too long I cut them shorter with a pair of dykes.... I also used some masking tape on the inside to keep any epoxy from getting through the holes.
The cool thing about the 700 series is the spring pivot is already hidden under the scales, so no pivot pin peening needed ;)
 
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Very nice job. When I first started reading I cringed. So you do it all by hand? I bought a book several years ago about pocket knife repair but have yet to have the guts to do anything. I may have to pick up some cheapies off the bay and go for it.
 
Very nice job. When I first started reading I cringed. So you do it all by hand? I bought a book several years ago about pocket knife repair but have yet to have the guts to do anything. I may have to pick up some cheapies off the bay and go for it.

The hardest part is just convincing yourself to go for it.

Here are the tools I used....

Various hand tools and a dremel with a grinding wheel and a buffing wheel.
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An ancient DeWalt bench grinder/buffer that I put sanding disks on the side of the grinding wheel and on the top plate...

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Bench vise

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2 flat sanding bars, a 7/8" dowel with sandpaper stuck on it for a round sanding bar, sandpaper and steel wool

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I used the dremel with grinding wheel to take off the rivet heads.
Used pin punch and hammer to tap rivets through the scales.
Seal the scale rivet holes in the frame. I used masking tape in the inside of the frame. But on the 112 there is a rivet hole behind the lockbar spring and that has to be filled from the outside (I used a dab of epoxy for that)
If you don't block those holes epoxy will get where you do not want it inside the frame!
Used the razor saw to get really close to the right shape to fit the frame, sand a bit and epoxy them on.
Use hack saw blades to remove excess wood.
Then the sanding features on the ancient grinder to get more excess wood off...
After that it was just a matter of rough sanding it down by hand and then finish sanding through some finer grits and steel wool at the end.
A little buffing wheel time on the frame/bolsters.
A good drenching in motor oil and wiping it down.
All done in about 3.5 hours while watching a nascar race on the computer in the garage :)

O M G that is bootifulisious

Thank you. I find myself staring at it in the sunlight quite a bit :)
The grain patterns in the burl are crazy.
 
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Oh.... I got the bookmatched amboyna burl scales from bellforestproducts.com
They have some pretty cool wood ;)
 
Thanks for the step by step. That's just awesome.

No problem.
I just went for it and figured it out as I went along. I am positive other people have better ways of doing it...lol
One thing that comes to mind is a benchtop belt and disc sander with a bunch of belts going through the grit sizes...that could virtually eliminate sanding by hand!

I forgot a step....filling or blocking the scale rivet holes in the frame before epoxying on the scales...I added it to the previous post.

Also I should mention that as long as the scales fit in the frame nicely, the epoxy will fill any gaps, and after all the sanding it ends up nice and smooth with no gaps :)

One question though. What was the drenching in motor oil for?

I use the oil drench to finish cleaning it out in the frame and pivot.. I always seem to get dirt, wood, metal or buffing compound in there.
And of course it lubes up the pivots etc...
Also the I figure the oil helps seal the wood, and in addition it sure makes it shiny too.
I use motor oil because I always have some laying around.

I am contemplating giving the scales a couple more oilings to get the oil in deeper, then using a high gloss clearcoat to add a bunch of depth to the crazy freaky grain in the burl. But I am not sure yet.
 
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The scales are perty.

Dont know of a clear coat that will go over motor oil.
Try using stabilized wood next time it doesnt require a finish.
 
The scales are perty.

Dont know of a clear coat that will go over motor oil.
Try using stabilized wood next time it doesnt require a finish.

Thanks :)

The oil has soaked in nicely, probably oil it again a couple more times.
Still haven't decided on clearcoat yet, since the wood polishes up nice and the oil gives it a good shine too...

I haven't played with any stabilized wood yet, but maybe someday :)
 
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