710 question.

H

Helderberg

Joined
Dec 8, 2013
Messages
322
I would appreciate any help as to what is the best sharpening method I can use to keep my 710 sharp? I have a Spyderco triangle rod system, but I like to keep the point sharp. I also have a diamond surface stone thing also.
Thanks in advance, Frank.
 
I use the Spyderco sharpmaker with the triangle stones and it works great. I'm not sure what you mean by saying you like to keep the point sharp.
 
Just make sure to never ever drag the tip off the stone. I've haven't sharpened a 710 but when sharpening my recurves on the Sharpmaker I use the corner of the stones using only light pressure (weight of the knife). I sharpen only the first 2/3 to 3/4 of the blade with the corners then flip to the flats to focus on sharpening the last bit of the blade and the tip; again using only light pressure making sure to never let the tip drag off ! Hope this makes sense...

Also I had trouble initially using the Sharpmaker with my Benchmades because of the obscenely obtuse edge they puts on their blades. Unless you want to attempt to reprofile the edge I've found that you have to tilt the knife away from the stones or all you do is hit the shoulder. Marking the edge with a sharpie then making some swipes on the white stones to know where you are hitting so you find the right angle to hold the knife is an invaluable trick!
 
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I find that if I use the Spyderco rods it works the entire blade perfectly but has a tendency to round off the point when I draw the blade off the rods at the bottom. I have tried to stop short and then use the flat side of the rod but for some reason it doesn't work the end the same? I am not sure how to keep the angle of the edge consistent from pivot to point. I am probably overthinking this, but I really like the knife but am afraid to use it and not be able to resharpen it.
Thanks for your post, Frank.
 
When sharpening the belly where it curves up to the tip you have to roll the knife forward and away just a little as you draw back to keep the edge perpendicular to the stone. I try not to go too fast and stop when the tip has reached the middle of the stone and lift off, taking care to not drag the tip itself. Has worked well for me, I've sharpened my 525 many times and it's razor sharp heel to tip and the tip is still pointy.

I'm not a professional and it can be VERY slow goings with harder steels on the fine white stones, especially if you haven't worked enough on the medium stones first or skipped them all together because you just wanted to "touch up" the blade. Has taken some patience but I'm getting more proficient. I love sharpening 440c though it takes a razor edge so easily great confidence booster :D
 
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I'll be trying to sharpen the 710-142 on the Edgepro when it arrives in a few days. Hoping the 1" wide stones don't catch on the recurve.
 
Dukat111 said:
I'll be trying to sharpen the 710-142 on the Edgepro when it arrives in a few days. Hoping the 1" wide stones don't catch on the recurve.
Click to expand...

You're brave, I would let a regular 710 be the guinea pig before attempting on that beauty :eek:
 
I don't have any other recurve folders to try.

I am nervous.
I'll first try very lightly with a polishing stone, if it doesn't catch the curve then I'll reprofile and make it shine. :)
 
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