710 recurve

65535

65535

Joined
Mar 14, 2007
Messages
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I have been tossing around the idea of grinding off the recuvre and make it a flat so I can sharpen it on standard flat stones. Anyone ever try that, I have the latest D2 model so I will need to get some meaty diamond sharpener for the task.
 
No need to do that you will ruin the knife and its aesthetics. Just get narrow stones and sharpen it. You can also use a Lansky with excellant results. keepem sharp
 
Part of the benefit of the 710 is the recurve, Remove it and you have a long stright blade. If that is what you want I would think that the Rukus would fit the bill. As far as ruining the knife, cutting that much off the blade would result in a very thick blade near the front. Also I belive to really take that much metal off, you would spend a very long time doing it on even a diamond stone, get a power grinder.
 
The recurve defines the 710. On the other hand, do what works for you when it comes to personal carry. It doesn't matter what it looks like as long as it works for you.
 
True, can anyone recommend a good way to get a polished edge on it? I envision some type of dowel ~ 2 inches maybe with a 1/4 piece cut out along the length so it's a 3/4 circle, with leather cover and loaded with CrO and maybe if I can get myself on some diamond powder (heard good things recently hairsplitting). But my first issue is getting a 36 degree V edge, I think 18 per side is a good place for D2, but I definitely can't do that myself, because it's 3.9 inches of well hardened D2.

Just tossing around some ideas. I also have a 940 I want to work on with a 18 degree edge or maybe even 15 degrees.
 
I also have a 710D2, and do not like the recurve. It is not pronounced enough to be useful (IMO) and just big enough to be a little bit of a pain to sharpen. I would recommend not grinding it off, because as stated above, this with cause the edge to be very thick around the belly. If it really bothers you, trade it for something like the Rukus. I agree that the 710's trademark is the recurve.

As far as getting a polished edge, don't. It's D2, and D2 cuts very well with a somewhat abrasive edge. I sharpen with white Spyderco benchstones, and I sharpen the recurve on a round Spyderco benchstone. D2 is an excellent steel once you find out the nuances of sharpening it.
 
I like the recurve, but the factory machining on the edge, is meager at best.
 
I have found slack belts, either on a sander or hooked/clamped and used freehand work well for recurves. This produces a convex edge, which may or may not be desirable. I sharpen my Kershaw Vapor on a belt sander, and touch it up for weeks using the flats of my Sharpmaker stones. The flat is only about 3/8" wide, and the corners are rounded, so it works well for the relatively shallow recurve on the Vapor, and even a 710. On a more pronounced recurve, like an Emerson Commander, narrow belts (< 1") and the Sharpmaker corners may be required. You could also get one of the EZ Lap diamond rods, and a ceramic crock stick. I put a great edge on a friends ATS-34 710 in about 1/2 hour, after he'd cut some heavy electric cable. The Spyderco Profiles have round surfaces for recurves and smaller ones for serrations, but would need something a little more aggressive to bring back a really dull blade, as the coursest one is still "medium".
 
I was thinking about buying a HF 1x30 belt grinder and the leather strop belt plus some sanding belts.
 
You don't need to regrind the edge to get a good edge on your 710. Purchase the Spyderco 701 profile ceramic stones. They have some unique shapes that, in addition to being great for sharpening serrated edges, also makes them great for sharpening using the chefs steeling technique. If you can steel a knife with a butchers steel you can get fantastic edges with these hones. I own several 710's and use only these hones on their edges with spectacular success. It's very easy and well worth the investment. I use these hones and this technique more than I use my Spyderco Sharp Maker.

NJ
 
I currently have a Kyocera ceramic crock stick, it's nice but I really really want to know the edge down to 17 degrees per side then get it stropped. I think the HF grinder and some leevalley belts is the way to go.

But I still like the input.
 
I suggest leaving the slight recurve and buying the proper sharpening equipment.

I have a set of ceramic rods set a a hardwood base. Great for recurves and also for putting on the final edge. I bought them at a specialty cookware store.

The angles on the Sharpmaker rods are made for sharpening recurves along with serrations (this may have already been mentioned). It's a purchase that is well worth the reasonable price paid.

I also do a lot sharpening using different grits of wet/dry sandpager and a piece of split cowhide tacked to a 2X4. Great for convex grinds (Bark River) and for very dull knives.

One more note. Reprofiling and very dull knifes are easily taken care of by clipping some 220 grit w/d sandpaper to the Shapemaker rods. Then move to 400 grit to remove the marks left by the 800 grit.

Regards
 
The 710 D2 is my EDC. I have no trouble at all keepng a truly razor sharp, "rough toothy" edge on it with the grey rods of the Sharpmaker, or my old round Crocksticks.:):)

Ben
 
65535 said:
I was thinking about buying a HF 1x30 belt grinder and the leather strop belt plus some sanding belts.
Click to expand...
Instead of that better buy a custom blade for that knife.

To reprofile the blade, please take some longer looks at the sharpening FAQ here and over there in the german speaking forum.

Recurves can be ground at the corners of benchstones AFAIK. You`ll be fine with a couple of APEX (the german company, don´t twist it) benchstones around 200 grit. Small ones (5x10cm) are affordable and can be purchased at "Steib" just have a look in "Moritzstraße, Wiesbaden". Or wait until "Lindenstruth" takes place in the beginning december.

Reprofiling with ceramic is a pain and prone to failure.

Last way could be a question to Mr. J. Schanz. If he finds some time, he surely will help you.
 
I just bought a Syyderco Sharp Maker replacement triangle ceramic for $13 and I think it's just what I need.
 
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