710D2 and Sharpmaker owners, I need some help.

N

Nikokurausu

Joined
Jun 19, 2006
Messages
539
How many strokes do you usually use per side to get the blade sharp? I can't seem to get my 710 back to its original sharpness. It would shave and push cut newsprint easily but now I can't get it to shave and it'll push cut newsprint with some force or a small slice to get it cut going.

I'm holding it properly, going through all four steps.S0, it should be REALLY sharp but it's not. I tried doing twenty a side with not much luck and have moved up to fifty.

I'm going to try a few different things and if those don't work, I'm going to try either what Cliff suggested in another thread in regards to using the Sharpmaker or Joe Talmadge's 710 sharpening method I dug up from the archives.
 
Have you checked if you are sharpening the very edge? (I mean with the magic marker trick).

I had same problem with my 710 and had to reprofile it (took an hour or so in the Sharpmaker) and now it cuts way better than out of the box .
 
No I haven't tried that. I'll try that when I give it another go. To be honest though, I think I many just end up reprofiling it like Cliff and Joe had written about in a couple of other threads.
 
I reprofiled mne to 15 degrees per side. I now use only the grey rods on the Sharpmaker to get a semi-toothy, VERY agressive edge that push cuts.
 
On my 710D2 the little pamphlet in the box mentioned 30 deg inclusive. The first time I had to re-sharpen it, it took some serious work on the brown rods to get the factory edge back. I used the sharpie marker trick and as near as I could figure out, it was a couple of deg. more obtuse, so it did need re-profiling. The other thing I found was that D2 can be a little finicky at times getting that razor edge - you can knock off the burr, but then it doesn't seem sharp after, when in fact it really is:) I've been stropping mine a few times on either side after I get the burr off or stropping to get the burr off. I've found pretty well the same thing happening on my Ka-Bar/Dozier D2 Black Thorn. I do not go to the white rods - as mentioned, D2 seems to like that slightly toothy edge.


- gord
 
The number of strokes to sharpen it, depends. Use the brown corners until very sharp and don't go to the next step (the brown flats) until you have it. It may initially take quite a long time. Just be patient, keep the rods clean of steel debris and keep working the blade on them until you have it sharp. Sometimes the rods come sort of slick and you need to rough them up to get some bite. You can feel this as you stroke the blade edge across them. If you don't feel the rod biting into the edge enough at first then the rod may be slick and need to be roughened by rubbing them against each other. I use the 40 degree setting on almost everything.

A good strop/hone finishes the edge nicely.

You can do it!
 
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