8" Grinder/sharpener

This is a smaller version of a Tormek style wet grinder. Most wet grinders have a 10" wheel that needs to be replaced once it wears below 8". This one starts with a 8" wheel. You can slap a paper wheel on this thing, but it will be very very slow.
 
Paper wheels are significantly lighter than any stone, or even cloth buffing wheel for that matter, so the Grizzly grinder is more than adequate. I bought a cheapy Home Depot model and it is fine, I got it on sale for 50 some odd dollars. I wish I have gotten a slight upgrade with a 1750 rpm one, which is better. I feel like I need to be in a fire safe speed suit as I break Mach 1 on my current wheel set up. Find the best of the cheapy 1750 rpm, and get the paper wheels, and you will have sharp knives faster than anything else out there. They do work, and the learning curve is pretty fast. My first hair whittling sharpness came from the paper wheels. Once I was able to do that, I started learning free hand, because I am OCD like that. I just gotta know how to do it! Have fun and be safe, wear eye protection and work without interruption with power equipment.
 
changeofseasons said:
This is a smaller version of a Tormek style wet grinder. Most wet grinders have a 10" wheel that needs to be replaced once it wears below 8". This one starts with a 8" wheel. You can slap a paper wheel on this thing, but it will be very very slow.
Click to expand...

I always thought slower was better, but I guess this might be too slow?

cj65 said:
Paper wheels are significantly lighter than any stone, or even cloth buffing wheel for that matter, so the Grizzly grinder is more than adequate. I bought a cheapy Home Depot model and it is fine, I got it on sale for 50 some odd dollars. I wish I have gotten a slight upgrade with a 1750 rpm one, which is better. I feel like I need to be in a fire safe speed suit as I break Mach 1 on my current wheel set up. Find the best of the cheapy 1750 rpm, and get the paper wheels, and you will have sharp knives faster than anything else out there. They do work, and the learning curve is pretty fast. My first hair whittling sharpness came from the paper wheels. Once I was able to do that, I started learning free hand, because I am OCD like that. I just gotta know how to do it! Have fun and be safe, wear eye protection and work without interruption with power equipment.
Click to expand...

So would you recommend a regular 8" or 10" variable grinder over this machine linked?

Really, all I'm looking for is a quick way to set bevels on my knives. I sharpen everything by hand, but reprofiling takes too long that way.
 
I have the exact same thing, marketed as Scheppach Tiger 2000s. Paid 130eu for it. It rotates at 120rpm. Not sure why you would want to replace the stone with a paper wheel. The stone cuts very fast. I was able to reprofile my zdp delica in minutes (minor chipping).

Also since it is water cooled there is almost no heating.

I normally sharpen by hand, but I needed a machine to reprofile quickly and accurately.

The power stropping wheel is great, after you reprofile, sharpen on some finer stones or sand paper, and polish with the leather wheel + compound (it comes with some but i use green compound CrO). Easily hair whittling sharp.

EDIT: Mine came with two jigs. One of them was for knives, and worked very well. It is basically a tormek.
 
Yeah, 120 RPM is way slow. Most people use paper wheels at or about 3400 RPM. RichardJ suggests using a slower speed grinder than that... his runs about 1600 RPM if I remember correctly.

This being said, paper wheels tend to wear out quickly with a lot reprofiling. I think a wet grinder with a full 10" stone would be better. But my preference is to use a belt grinder for that instead.
 
Why I like this tool is because it is table top friendly and living room safe. I do not have a work shop to be able to bolt down a high speed motor or sanding system.

This machine just sits on your table and quietly operates at a low speed. It does splash a bit of water off the blade, but other wise all the dust is in the water and you just clean out the basin. At first the leather wheel with shed some leather, but nothing you can't clean up in a minute.

With high speed tools you have lots of dust and other material that flies off the wheel or belt.

And like I said it works fast with the jig.I have not tried freehand on the stone, only the power strop.
 
the wheels dont wear out, the grit just wears off and needs recoated. i have a set of wheels that are over 18 years old and still going strong.
 
THG said:
I always thought slower was better, but I guess this might be too slow?



So would you recommend a regular 8" or 10" variable grinder over this machine linked?

Really, all I'm looking for is a quick way to set bevels on my knives. I sharpen everything by hand, but reprofiling takes too long that way.
Click to expand...

8" grinder, the wheels are light, a cheap motor is all you need for one maybe 2 lifetimes. If the wheels do not clear, use a block of wood to raise the grinder above the table. I have 3500 rpm cheapie, if I could rewind, I would have spent 75 and got a variable at 1750 and 3500 model.
 
diff_lock2 said:
I have the exact same thing, marketed as Scheppach Tiger 2000s. Paid 130eu for it. It rotates at 120rpm. Not sure why you would want to replace the stone with a paper wheel. The stone cuts very fast. I was able to reprofile my zdp delica in minutes (minor chipping).

Also since it is water cooled there is almost no heating.

I normally sharpen by hand, but I needed a machine to reprofile quickly and accurately.

The power stropping wheel is great, after you reprofile, sharpen on some finer stones or sand paper, and polish with the leather wheel + compound (it comes with some but i use green compound CrO). Easily hair whittling sharp.

EDIT: Mine came with two jigs. One of them was for knives, and worked very well. It is basically a tormek.
Click to expand...

diff_lock2 said:
Why I like this tool is because it is table top friendly and living room safe. I do not have a work shop to be able to bolt down a high speed motor or sanding system.

This machine just sits on your table and quietly operates at a low speed. It does splash a bit of water off the blade, but other wise all the dust is in the water and you just clean out the basin. At first the leather wheel with shed some leather, but nothing you can't clean up in a minute.

With high speed tools you have lots of dust and other material that flies off the wheel or belt.

And like I said it works fast with the jig.I have not tried freehand on the stone, only the power strop.
Click to expand...

Hmm... It's starting to sound like a great machine :thumbup:

cj65 said:
8" grinder, the wheels are light, a cheap motor is all you need for one maybe 2 lifetimes. If the wheels do not clear, use a block of wood to raise the grinder above the table. I have 3500 rpm cheapie, if I could rewind, I would have spent 75 and got a variable at 1750 and 3500 model.
Click to expand...

You just made this decision a little bit harder lol :o
 
thg, go read post 3 in this thread http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8311873#post8311873
this member contacted me one afternoon and asked a few questions on using the wheels before his first attempt. 15 minutes later he contacts me again all excited saying he sharpened a knife sharper than he ever has before. read his previous posts in other threads also. he told me he spent quite a bit of money on other sharpeners and was unhappy with their results. belts wear out and you have to buy more, the wheels just need regritted which only requires a little elmers glue and the provided grit. i get more dust when i sharpen a knife on my belt sander compared to the wheels.

i have tried a tormek a buddy had. he had me buff his wood chisels that he just sharpened on his tormek and couldnt believe the difference. he said the paper wheel done a much better job finishing off the edge and they cut a lot better. the soft wheel on my buddys tormek became oval after a while which required him to dress it down quite a bit taking life out of the wheel.
 
richard j said:
thg, go read post 3 in this thread http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?p=8311873#post8311873
this member contacted me one afternoon and asked a few questions on using the wheels before his first attempt. 15 minutes later he contacts me again all excited saying he sharpened a knife sharper than he ever has before. read his previous posts in other threads also. he told me he spent quite a bit of money on other sharpeners and was unhappy with their results. belts wear out and you have to buy more, the wheels just need regritted which only requires a little elmers glue and the provided grit. i get more dust when i sharpen a knife on my belt sander compared to the wheels.

i have tried a tormek a buddy had. he had me buff his wood chisels that he just sharpened on his tormek and couldnt believe the difference. he said the paper wheel done a much better job finishing off the edge and they cut a lot better. the soft wheel on my buddys tormek became oval after a while which required him to dress it down quite a bit taking life out of the wheel.
Click to expand...

I'm only really interested in a grinder for profiling the edge. All of my regular sharpening and touch-ups will be done by hand.

How exactly does grit reapplication work? If it's done by hand, it sounds like something that would end up with unevenness (more grit in some spots, maybe some small lumps of grit.)
 
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