8000 grit shapton stone good for A2 steel bush craft knife???

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Jan 1, 2016
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Hi everyone! I am have a problem here, I own a lt wright genesis and am looking to buy some shapton stones. And I am wondering which grits to buy! plz give your suggestions. Also this is bugging me A LOT recently, will a 1k,5k,8k grit shapton stone be good for my knife? or should I stick with a 1k,2k, then 5k set? Also how do I know that I am finished with the 2k/5k stone? also what is the best nagura stone for them? srry for all of the questions. thx and have a nice day peace.
 
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You are finished with ANY STONE when the scratch pattern is consistent and unchanging, also when the edge is fully apexed and burr reduced as much as possible. You will know when it's time.

I think you should start with the 1k, 2k, and 5k. The 8k will be of ZERO advantage to you, you have yet to even master the 5k which produces exceptional sharpness. 8k is fun and produces a very fine polish but I don't think you are ready for it yet.
 
ok XD thx! nice to see you in two of my threads :D but there is still one question, how would I know if I am done with the 2k stone? I don't sharpen all that much and I normally just use 2 stones so adding another one i kind of confusing XD
 
You just need to do it, some things are not put into words very well.
 
but there is still one question, how would I know if I am done with the 2k stone? I don't sharpen all that much and I normally just use 2 stones so adding another one i kind of confusing XD

Here are a few sharpening basics for you. When you sharpen on your first stone a really simplified outline of the process is:

1. Grind on side A until you form a burr on side B. Keep grinding until this burr runs the full length of the edge. ALL the way along the length.
2. Grind side B until you get another burr, this time on side A. Again, keep grinding until the burr runs the full length of the edge.
3. Remove the burr from side A. It may flip to side B or be re-formed on side B. Check both sides and deburr until it's gone from both sides.

Once this is done, the blade should be very sharp, but not necessarily refined and polished. If you want to refine it by moving to another finer stone, you repeat the same steps above with the finer stone. Note that the grinding process will take WAY less time on the finer stones. A tiny fraction of the original time. It may only take 8 to 10 strokes on each side until you form a new, smaller burr.

At this point, you should look at the edge bevels and see if the scratch pattern has transformed from the original coarse scratch pattern to the new finer scratch pattern. Sometimes you can raise a burr, but not change the scratch pattern completely. Sometimes, you want to keep grinding until the pattern has been completely replaced. Other times, it kinda doesn't matter. As long as it passes cut tests.

Moving to a 3rd finer stone is just repeating the above again.

I hope this helps.

You might want to read my post, The Seven Secrets of Sharpening:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1353408-The-Seven-Secrets-of-Sharpening

I'm not sure if it will help you, but it's worth a look.

Brian.
 
What's the goal here? Do you want to sharpen for "sport" with mirrored bevels?

If your under the impression that you need higher grit for better edges you might be surprised at what can be done at low grit with proper burr formation and removal.
 
FB,

All what have been said by Jason B., bgentry and Deadboxhero is true. You have to know that the results you will get come much more from the skill than from the tool. My advice is to buy in a very first time a generic two sided stone (coarse and fine), an inexpensive carbon steel knife. Follow the steps bgentry has described. Practice again and again until you state improvements in the results. It's a learning curve, very frustrating at the beginning but it's worth the pain. Once you will have got some understanding of the physics of sharpening, once you will have got some muscle memory, then you will enjoy the use of an expensive set of stones.

I hope this advice won't hurt you, we all have been there and still have to learn. Good luck and don't forget to enjoy, even the frustration times.

dantzk.
 
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ok XD thx! nice to see you in two of my threads :D but there is still one question, how would I know if I am done with the 2k stone? I don't sharpen all that much and I normally just use 2 stones so adding another one i kind of confusing XD
You know when you are done with the 2k stone when the all scratches from the 1k stone have been removed. If you have experience sharpening with two stones then why not use only the 1k and 5k for now? The 2k is a great stone but it isn't a necessity for getting a sharp edge.
 
thx guys, the tips really help! So what I really have to do is get another burr on the 2k stone after I fix any damage/get a burr on the 1k stone then after getting a burr on the 2k stone I move on to the 5k stone and finish when I have another burr?

what I used to do was just fix any damage on my knife on the 1k grit and then just polish on the 6k grit XD
 
I think you are over thinking it. If you are happy with the results you are getting with your current 1k/6k stones then there is no need to change your technique when using the Shaptons. You use the 1k to shape the edge and the 2k and 5k to refine the edge.
 
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