83mm Manix in Pieces ***Pics***

[Midget]

In case you all were wondering what it looks like on the inside.

Shots in no particular order.

 

[Midget]

 

[USSR]

That's cool. I like seeing Spyders taken apart. The tolerences in the lock are always fun to ponder! Thanks for sharing.

 

[Midget]

***note***

i shortened 2 mounting screws and both bushings (just a teeeeny bit), and the reassembled the knife sans 1 metal liner. i did this to see if the handle would be noticably lighter. It's not.

Still, i think the metal liner(s) are excessive. Sure, lots of you like things overkill-tough, but to me it doesn't seem to add any benefit. the strider SNG line has proven to me that G10 is plenty tough to be the handle alone.

i probably wouldn't recommend anyone to do this to their manix. but in case you want to, it takes:

*about 20 minutes
*two T8 torx screw heads
*loctite
*a dremel
*sanding wheel

it's a simple procedure. take apart your knife, careful not to lose any parts. you'll likely need TWO T8 torx heads to take apart the pivot and lockback pin. use the sanding wheel to take off a TINY bit of the screw-ends, as well as a TINY bit of the bushing-end. you have to be really careful here, you don't want to take off too much. ideally, for the bushings, you'd take off exactly the amount needed to sit flush in the G10 hole. my calipers have the metal-liner at just under 1mm thick, so you'd only need to take off 1mm from the bushing/screw-ends.

simple as that. reassemble, use a dot of loctite to hold the pivot and lockback screws in place.


having done this to my knife, i notice almost no difference in how it handles. it might feel a little lighter, but then again, it could just be in my head.

if you do it right, there shouldn't be any blade play, side to side, or up and down. mine locks as sturdy as it always has.

hope you liked the pictures.

i'd take the other metal liner out too, but the clip screws are tapped into there, so if i wanted to lose the other liner i'd have to tap new holes into somewhere or go without the clip. maybe a weekend project in the future...


take care.

 

[powernoodle]

Thats a good looking knife even when its vivisected.

cheers

 

[Joe-Dirt]

I bet that knife would be just fine with no scales. I bet all put back together (minus G10 scales) it would be nice and sturdy and thin

 

[peacefuljeffrey]

That's cool. I like seeing Spyders taken apart. The tolerences in the lock are always fun to ponder! Thanks for sharing.

I always study them in the hopes of building a sense of confidence that they will have no wiggle/wobble.

-Jeffrey

 

[rnhood]

A fine looking knife, inside and out.

Nice job with those pictures.

 

[The Deacon]

Neat work, and great photos Midget!

I bet that knife would be just fine with no scales. I bet all put back together (minus G10 scales) it would be nice and sturdy and thin

Assuming that would work, then another alternative might be to replace the G-10 scales with very thin carbon fiber ones. Know DragonPlate sells some veneer that's very thin, very light, comes in both shiny and matte finish, and is even available with a "peel and stick" backing. Finished knife would be almost as thin as without scales, but a bit more refined looking.

 

[TedV]

...
Still, i think the metal liner(s) are excessive. Sure, lots of you like things overkill-tough, but to me it doesn't seem to add any benefit. the strider SNG line has proven to me that G10 is plenty tough to be the handle alone.
...

My guess is that the lock strength is less without the 2nd steel liner? IIRC it's currently MBC rated (like it's larger brother).
So if you don't need/want the lock strength, you can probably do with a liner less.

 

[Death's Head]

Simple and complex. Know what I mean. Every angle and hole has a function.

 

[meshmdz]

very cool pictures! never seen a spyderco like that before.. (one that is broken down) interesting.. is the dirt and everything normal for a EDC knife?