8670 vs 5160 steel

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GrenfellsBrutalForge

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May 23, 2016
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Just found out for sure today that a bunch of mistery steel I have is actually 8670. I've used 5160 for knives more than any other steel.
Wondering if anyone would like to comment on how these two compare for things like toughness, edge holding, sharpenability or any thing else that applies to knives.
I'm back working my day job now and knife making time is severely limited, anything I can learn about 8670 will help I'm sure.
Thanks

-Colin
 
IIRC, 8670 is the stuff that Admiral sold as "L6 substitute" I seem to remember that for 5160, if you wanted the i x 1/4 bars in the past you actually got 9260.
 
Makes sense. I have gotten them out of 5160, although they don't have much activity, they are clearly there.
I know these aren't as beautiful as Hamons on different steel, but they are a nice added touch. Somewhat beautiful in thier simplicity. I get them without clay, just by selectively heating the edge before quench. Here's a picture of one on the last knife I finished

I'm sure I'll try it with 8670 at some point and see how it goes

-Colin
 
You can edge quench 8670, but that isn't the same thing as a hamon. Similar, but not the same.
 
GrenfellsBrutalForge said:
It seems to me that the 8670 would be a suitable steel for a heavy chopper like a large kukri. Am I correct in thinking that?

-Colin
Click to expand...

Large chopping tools would be the ideal application. Same applications where 9260, 80crv2, 5160, or L6 would be used. You hit on a great supply for your type if knives.
 
I bought a bunch of 8670M from admiral a few years back when i was looking for something like L6 and everyone i've made a knife for with it has been happy... i also have a greco MST in this steel that i've carried off and on for years that i've always felt confident in as well. Seems pretty tough and takes one of those scary sharp edges but i have never really pushed this steel to the edge so to speak. A survival instructor i know has put one of my medium sized blades through the ringer in 8670 though and he says the steel is tough and really nice to work in the field with so i'll take that as a bonus.
 
IIRC, Zac Brown's Southern Grind shop is using 8670M for their newer fixed blade model.
rustyrazor said:
I bought a bunch of 8670M from admiral a few years back when i was looking for something like L6 and everyone i've made a knife for with it has been happy... i also have a greco MST in this steel that i've carried off and on for years that i've always felt confident in as well. Seems pretty tough and takes one of those scary sharp edges but i have never really pushed this steel to the edge so to speak. A survival instructor i know has put one of my medium sized blades through the ringer in 8670 though and he says the steel is tough and really nice to work in the field with so i'll take that as a bonus.
Click to expand...
 
I'm liking this Zac Brown more and more all the time... i hear he is not just a knife maker but can carry a tune as well.;)
 
I checked out the southern grind website. He's cutting 12 blanks from 1 30" saw blade @ ~ 0.1" thick.
The 30" saws I have are .25" thick and I am cutting them into strips and forging to shape. Blades I make from these will vary in length height and thickness so I feel like I will get far more from one of these.
This stuff is hard to cut at 44hrc. Using 3 thin 4 1/2" discs per cut with an angle grinder but I feel all the used discs will be worth it in the end. If the rain holds off I'll try to harden another cupon this afternoon.
Have a chopper ready to harden and a kwaiken to finish up while that's going through tempering, the next one after those will be made from this steel.
Excited to see how it works out, man I love making knives!
 
GrenfellsBrutalForge said:
I checked out the southern grind website. He's cutting 12 blanks from 1 30" saw blade @ ~ 0.1" thick.
The 30" saws I have are .25" thick and I am cutting them into strips and forging to shape. Blades I make from these will vary in length height and thickness so I feel like I will get far more from one of these.
This stuff is hard to cut at 44hrc. Using 3 thin 4 1/2" discs per cut with an angle grinder but I feel all the used discs will be worth it in the end. If the rain holds off I'll try to harden another cupon this afternoon.
Have a chopper ready to harden and a kwaiken to finish up while that's going through tempering, the next one after those will be made from this steel.
Excited to see how it works out, man I love making knives!
Click to expand...

First of all, Bestar's 8670 (the stuff Disston uses to make saw blades) is just that - it is not 8670M. 8670M is sold by Admiral (I don't know what mill it comes from). However, looking at Admiral's chemical specs, I don't see what makes it "M" (modified?).

Anyway, when I see someone claim to use 8670M, such as Southern Grind, I infer that they are buying steel from Admiral.

Now this leads to an issue because his 'GranDaddy' knife is marked as 8670M, but he shows that it is cut from a saw blade.

His 'Jackal Pup' knife is not (apparently) cut from a saw blade, yet is also marked as 8670M.

So we can't be exactly sure what is going on at Southern Grind - has he done a chem analysis on the saw blades? Does he think 8670 and 8670M are the same thing?

As for cutting, waterjet will do a great job.
 
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