880SP takedown

[ARtsig1]

I've had the "new" model 880sp/serrated for a while. Pretty much has been in it's box but another post got me to thinking, and then tinkering. I took my 880 completely apart, gave everything a good hot bath and a scrub with some Dawn dishwasher detergent, finished it up with a complete drying.

***yes I realize I voided my warranty but I'm one of those fella's been tinkering with knives for a while and have no fear of assembling the 880 back to pristine condition!***

The first thing I did was to satin finish the titanium liners. I used three grits of paper ending up with 400 grit. I then used some "Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish" to finish them out. I satined the inside of the liners along with the edges. Did not touch the outside of the liners since they are covered up with G-10.

***Btw this is not the first 880 I've done this with. I sold a couple I "reconditioned" with pleasing results from the buyers.***

I then worked on the blade a little. I removed the double thumblugs (these puppies are attatched with red loctite........enough to put a smallblock 350 Chevy back together!!!) I used no paper on the blade as Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish was sufficient to give the finish I wanted. The finish is a med/light gray color that is even in coverage on the blade and really allows the logo's to show. I paid special attention to the pivot area and have it EXTREMELY smooth.

This is as far as I got tonight and will continue tomorrow if I get time...otherwise this weekend. What I plan to do is use my Dremel to mirror the pivot area of the blade and to polish the washers. The pivot pin will also receive the polishing treatment as will the standoffs. I haven't decided on the black screws yet. I'm also undecided on what I want to do with the thumblugs. I'm thinking at this point of ordering a set of the tritium thumblugs from TAD Gear that are made to retrofit a Buck/Strider. Since this is the new model I won't have to touch the G-10 grips as the finish is very nice. I have always thought that a set of camo micarta grips would look super on it though.

One change I would love to see made on the B/S would be to have the clip mounted for tip down carry and have the clip attatched as high on the handle as possible for deep pocket carry. The clip placement now is the only thing that keeps me from edc'ing the B/S on a regular basis. 'Course I do have a drill press and a tap set so I might just have to try that idea myself!!

Any suggestions?? How anyone else who has delved into the world of "WARRANTY BUSTING"???

Btw.........Buck guy's, you make one heck'uva folder with the 880 series!! THANK YOU!!!!

 

[nonbox]

Please post pics when you are done. We look forward to seeing the finished product.

 

[J Rummerfield]

sounds like a cool mod, pics would be great to see.

We don't do tip down on the Strider stuff due to military safety requirements. Tip down is bad due to femoral artery damage during a traumatic situation like a vehicle crash etc.

Josh

 

[SteelDriver]

We don't do tip down on the Strider stuff due to military safety requirements. Tip down is bad due to femoral artery damage during a traumatic situation like a vehicle crash etc.

Josh

Really? Interesting bit of trivia, thanks Josh.

 

[ARtsig1]

Guess I better tell you guys that I'm digitally challenged and you'll probably just have to "envision" what I'm describing.

I did get a chance to work on it some more this afternoon and Ipolished up the standoffs along with the screw heads. Looks pretty good if I say so myself. I ended up polishing the thumbstuds also. When I reassembled it everything lined up perfect as it was before with the blade perfectly centered upon closing and the lock-up tight and solid. I used Miltec to lube the pivot and it usually takes 18 to 24 hours for the lube to really work its best so I'll see just how limber it is tomorrow. The action is tight but thats how I like it to be.

 

[Crayola]

I bought my 880 tanto modified by RDT! It was his blade and then it became my birthday present (I love my wife!)

It has a polished and reground tip (not sharp, oen hell of a penetrator though!). The flats were polished up too, and the ti liners were jewelled. Also, some grip "divots) were ground into one scale, makign for a nice grip. If I had some detent balls I'd heat color the ti and install the new detent balls. I may regrind the blade, making the grind go higher on the blade (basically a high saber4 flat, grinding close to the thumb stud hole.) I'd also love a spear point blade I could retrofit onto my knife!

This is the most rock-solid locking blade I own! Thanks Buck Knives!

(any chance I can purchase just a spear point blade for my folder?)

 

[ARtsig1]

Sounds great crayola!! I finished up the last bit of work on the 880sp tonight. I had a clip from an EDI folder.........the original deep pocket carry clip, and mounted it at the top of the knife using the two screws that were with it. This leaves both sides of the Strider with the original grip screws.

The way I did this was the same way I did another one a couple years ago and since have sold it. But the clip stayed tight for me as I carried this knife for a while. I drilled two holes through the G-10, after I removed it first, that matched up with the two holes in the clip. Since this clip has a series of holes already drilled into it I simply lined up one of the holes over the pivot screw so it could be adjusted with the clip on. I used some JB Weld to attatch the clip and screws. Since the holes I drilled were smaller than the screws I used I let the screws thread the holes. On the back side I used a conical grind stone on my Dremel and flared each hole on the backside. I mixed up a small amount of JB Weld and after screwing the clip on I filled these holes and the area around the screws with the JB Weld and allowed it to set up.

Since that time I've reattatched the scale and pivot screw and have set the B/S aside to allow a full 24 hours of curing. Tomorrow evening should tell the tale!!