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8cr13mov Patina Options?

Joined
Apr 29, 2013
Messages
78
Hey guys and gals, so I recently picked up a Spyderco Persistence because the Tenacious was too big for my taste but sadly it only comes uncoated. I personally hate uncoated knives because when I clip them in my pocket and I'm out at work they develop spot rust because of the humidity in my pocket. So my question is, is there any way to force a patina on 8cr13mov? I was reading around and found that the only way to get a "patina" is by using PCB etchant. I didn't get a good result on a junker knife I tried it on so I'm reluctant to do it on my Persistence. Any tips or options you folks know of that could help me out?
 
You can only acid etch it. Stainless steel won't patina, and semi stainless steel like D2 are difficult to get a good patina on through normal means.
 
8cr is a pretty decent stainless, I can't imagine that just from the humidity in your pocket it caused it to rust. I have an uncoated tenacious and the only time I ever seen any corrosion like spots on it is when I used it to open some bags of sodium metabisulfite at work and didn't clean it off right away.
 
Caswell's Stainless Steel Blackener.Google it, works great, nuf said.


PS:It darkens carbon steel also.:thumbup: :)
 
I put a decent patina on my tenacious with vinegar, hydrogen peroxide and salt . I sprayed the solution on the blade every 30 minutes over an 8 hour period then left it on overnight. woke up the next morning cleaned it up and the blade is considerably darker with I kind of tiger stripe droplet pattern of darker spots. I'm new to posting on here so as soon as I know how to post pictures. I will do so
 
I used 8 ounces of peroxide 2 ounces of vinegar I didn't measure the song I just don't fit in a considerable amount maybe half a cup
 
If stainless steel is rusting in your pocket, any sort of artificially emulated 'patina' isn't likely to change that anyway; it'll probably make it worse. Stainless already 'patinates' (oxidizes) in it's own way, forming a thin & clear (i.e., unseen) layer of chromium oxide on the surface; it'll always do that, no matter what the finish on the blade is. In fact, the reaction of the chromium to oxygen is faster (essentially instantaneous), and it'll likely inhibit or prevent the reaction of iron to oxygen (which is what makes the dark oxide 'patina' in plain carbon steel). The chromium oxide layer formed is probably the best rust protection the steel will ever have, and if that's still not fully protecting it from rust, an artificially created acid etch (which isn't patina or oxide at all) isn't going to do any better.

Oiling the blade would likely make 99% of the difference in adding some additional protection. Polishing the blade will also make a difference, as a finer finish is less likely to trap & hold the stuff that contributes to rusting; moisture beads up and has a tougher time clinging to a highly-polished surface. Acid etching will do just the opposite; it'll create deeper pits in the steel, which darkens it, and which will be MORE likely to hold moisture, dirt, salt and all the other stuff that makes rust more likely to occur. The best example of that is the rust often seen on bead-blasted stainless blades, which do look darker, but create a rough-finished haven to trap & hold all that rust-making stuff.

Patina works to inhibit rust a little bit on non-stainless steel, only because non-stainless steel has literally nothing else working to protect it, like the chromium (at/above ~12%) does for stainless steel.


David
 
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Have you tried wiping it off with an oily towel or Tuff-Cloth at the end of the day? Can't imagine it rusting then even in a wet pocket.

If rust is that big of a concern, the Spyderco Salt I (3") and Dragonfly Salt (2.25") have H1 steel which will not rust.
 
In my experience, S30V is more likely to rust than 8Cr13MoV.

That said, it's a stainless steel and you can't put a patina on it. What you can do is wipe it down and oil it now and then. Should be just fine even in a high moisture environment.

You may begin to enjoy caring for your knife, and perhaps even see it as a reliable friend staying by your side.
 
I took an Ambitious blade and tumbled it in attempt at a stonewashed look. Ran it a little too long, then left it in the water for a few days before cleaning. I never did get that stonewashed pattern, the milling/grinding lines were too deep. It now has a very dark patina that does not want to lighten up, even with compound buffing.
 
I took an Ambitious blade and tumbled it in attempt at a stonewashed look. Ran it a little too long, then left it in the water for a few days before cleaning. I never did get that stonewashed pattern, the milling/grinding lines were too deep. It now has a very dark patina that does not want to lighten up, even with compound buffing.
Any chance you still have it for posting a photo of the dark patina? I’m looking to do this now with the ambitious 8Cr13MoV serrated if possible. Thanks-
 
If rust is that big of a concern, the Spyderco Salt I (3") and Dragonfly Salt (2.25") have H1 steel which will not rust.
Right, but the various later Salt versions with LC200N steel are much better knives.

Still, 8cr13mov should not rust just from being in a humid pocket. I carried an AUS-8 knife for years without any rust, and my pockets were often completely soaked through with sweat.
 
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