8Cr13MoV steel vs victorinox classic

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Apr 14, 2008
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Hi, blade newbie here. I'm interested in finding out how the 8Cr13MoV steel in the byrd series knives compares to the steel used in the blade of the small Victorinox classic which I have now. My friend at work thinks the steel in his victorinox classic is the best there is and when my byrd knife with the 8Cr13MoV blade arrives I'm hoping to be one up on him. Any thoughts about how the two compare?
 
Less corrosion resistance and better edge holding in the 8cr13mov.
 
With the thin flat grind used on Victorinox knives, it can get very sharp and will cut quite well even when a bit dull. The 8Cr13MoV steel used in the Byrds will take a wicked edge as well, but the blades are generally much thicker so it takes more effort to make cuts (the sides of the blade are forcing the material farther apart due to the greater thickness of the blade). The telling point will be how long each holds its edge. I've never been too impressed with the edge-holding of the various SAKs I've used. In fact, I seldom used the knife blades, although the tools were handy.
 
Thanks. I guess it will be a bit like comparing apples tp oranges then when I get my Byrd starling and try to compare it to his victorinox classic.
 
which blade could be made sharper?

They can get rather equal in sharpness. The SAK steel takes a highly polished edge a little better in my experience, but the difference is marginal. 8cr13mov in the Byrds is harder and more wear resistant, so it takes more time to sharpen. However, I have less burring with 8cr13mov than I do with SAK steel, so I would consider it "easier to sharpen" for myself.
 
As a practical matter, trying to convince your friend that you have "one-upped" him will probably be a losing proposition. You will in fact have a finer knife, but he will be unable to see that and will always think his Classic is the ultimate. There is nothing wrong with that, so let him continue to think that. You will know the truth.

By the way, I happen to think that the Classic is a fantastic knife for what it is and I am rarely without one. But it does fall short in edge holding and it is no Byrd. But then you won't be able to file your nails, pull a splinter or trim your nose hair with the Byrd, either.
 
Trying to one up someone is always a losing proposition. My suggestion is to enjoy your Byrd, and all the knives you will enjoy in your lifetime.
 
Trying to one up someone is always a losing proposition. My suggestion is to enjoy your Byrd, and all the knives you will enjoy in your lifetime.

Agreed. But he needs to know that there are other choices out there though! He used to edc a mag solitare and thought that was the ultimate until he saw my Orb Raw.
 
Your colleague thought that the Victorinox Classic blade-steel was the ultimate? I haven't posted here on BladeForums in several months...mostly lurking in the shadows, reading up on a few knives and the latest innovations without comment. However, after seeing that particular addition...

I have not been impressed with the steel in my Victorinox SwissChamp. It is not a bad steel, but neither is it remarkable. I habitually carry something along the lines of a Spyderco Military (your standard S30V/G10 version) along with the SwissChamp. In regards to build quality, I have found that the Byrd line produced by Spyderco is excellent for the value. Remember, highlight, that edge retention is not everything, but is only an integral part in the package of designing an excellent knife or steel!

In regards to Victorinox Classic being the ultimate blade steel...
Has anyone heard of S30V? CPM D2? ZDP-189? CPM M4? There are so many that have been called the ultimates that outperform the "ultimate" stainless featured on twenty-dollar SAK models.

One-upping is not a game to get started, but if you're going to...WIN! Get something from high up in the Spyderco line and let in shine! For the price of a few Byrds you could get an Endura 4 or a sweet little Para-Military...you will be glad you made the purchase.

Just a pointless rant to bring myself back into the world of the forums...
I hope I contributed something useful!

God bless you, America, and all our men and women overseas and at home.

KATN,

Wade
619G6

P.S.: Get a SureFire!
 
SAK steel is excellent for anyone who doesn't log on to this or any other knife forum twice a day or more. Ignorance is bliss and I suspect that the SAK blade is the best steel most people will ever encounter. Sad but true.
 
Yes, for most people, SAK is best value for money. for 10$ you get the sharpest thinnest knife (and other tools) with you. I own several, and also understand other steel might be better, but for daily use, nothing beats a SAK. It can afford to be thin, because if I need to pry, I use the flat screwdriver. This way, both tools are optimized.

Sometimes, personal experience & judgement can be really biased ;)
 
am I the only one who does not read that "Best steel" = "The steel which holds the edge longest" ......?
 
am I the only one who does not read that "Best steel" = "The steel which holds the edge longest" ......?
Good point. If the definition of ultimate is easy to sharpen, tough and absolutely resistant to corrosion, then the Classic would in fact be the ultimate.

(However, if a 710 in D2 could cut the blade right off of a Classic, then it would be hard to argue that the 710 is less ultimate)
 
They can get rather equal in sharpness. The SAK steel takes a highly polished edge a little better in my experience, but the difference is marginal. 8cr13mov in the Byrds is harder and more wear resistant, so it takes more time to sharpen. However, I have less burring with 8cr13mov than I do with SAK steel, so I would consider it "easier to sharpen" for myself.

If you are just looking at the steel, I pretty much agree with Vivi.
SAK - more corrosion resistant
8Cr13MoV - hold an edge longer.

I don't see any difference in how sharp either gets, and little difference in how hard either is to sharpen. The INOX in the SAK is softer, so it will sharpen a bit easier, but the 8Cr13MoV is not difficult to sharpen.

If you are comparing the Byrd designs to the SAK designs, the SAK will sharpen easier because it is a thinner blade. The Byrd will still hold an edge longer because that is a function of the steel, not the design.
 
I have a SAK but like others I find it doesn't hold an edge long. I like my Kershaw with the 8Cr13mov better
 
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