8Cr13MoV

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Oct 14, 2016
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436
Not so sure about this stuff yet. Found a inexpensive (free) kershaw 3840 freefall folder tanto blade is 8Cr13MoV. Haven't tried to put an edge on it yet but if I have to jugde by feel and weight I would say I like my aus8a knives much more than this. May just add it to my edc rotation for a bit and see how long it lasts.

Any thoughts on this steel?


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Easy to sharpen but does not hold an edge. Dulls quickly. If you enjoy sharpening your knife, then not a problem.
 
Need any special diamond stones for it or will standard ones work


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This steel is very close to 440C. It takes a pretty fine edge easily. It's easy to sharpen with just about any kind of stone. It's edge retention is low, but it's very quick to sharpen, so it's kind of a wash. It's a nice everyday steel for inexpensive blades.

Brian.
 
Cool was hoping to save my new diamond lansky stones for better knives and use the standard stones on the cheaper easier steels.


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I find it to be a good steel by Kershaw, my Tremor takes a fine edge and holds it well enough.
As long as the heat treatment is good it is very good working steel.

When doing hard and dirty stuff I prefer to have a steel like this or Aus8, 1095, ect cause if I damage the edge it is way easier to fix.
 
I like it. Sharpens easily and a periodic stropping prolongs the edge.

I know it's not top shelf for an everyday knife that's only going to cut tape, paper, etc it does a good job.
 
I like the 8cr13mov for my Kershaw. It's a pretty good steel on a "beater" knife. I've heard it comparable to AUS8 but I'm not entirely sure myself.
 
8cr13MoV is generally an okay "budget steel". I've had no problems with it, other than the fact it dulls rather quickly, but the fact that is sharpens easily makes up for this. I don't have any AUS8 knives so I can't make any comparisons to it.
 
All depend on what you want to use it for. It makes a nice rough use blade still, as already mentioned. You can cyber it into a fine cutting steel as well. Lower the edge angle a bit each time you sharpen it until you start setting damage from use. You may be able to go as low as 10 degrees per side or less. This will increase the edge holding considerably. Just keep the edge angle just above where it takes minor damage during normal use for the knife. This will likely require raising the angle back up after going just a bit too far by adding a micro bevel.

Also, finish on the coarsest stone you have that you are able to get a sharp edge. The edge should easily slice newspaper and shave your arm, unless your arm hair is really fine. This will also increase the edge holding during such cuts, which most people use.
 
I won't buy any knives with 8cr or similar. junk steel for me. some people are happy with it, I don't understand why, maybe because its cheap? eh to each there own. I tend to save money for something good.
 
It was given to me so not much choice. Lol my grandfather isn't as much of a knife fan as I am as long as it cuts it's a knife to him and he loses more than I can count. He was giving it to me because it was too heavy for his tastes. And it's a bit light for mine but I think it could be a good beater to cut boxes and such with


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I won't buy any knives with 8cr or similar. junk steel for me. some people are happy with it, I don't understand why, maybe because its cheap? eh to each there own. I tend to save money for something good.

No offense but yesterday's improved steel eventually becomes "junk" steel to some. I've been around a long time and have experienced and used all kinds of steel used in knives for many years and get a kick out of these types of observations. Sorry but I don't view 8Cr13MoV as "junk". Save up your money and buy something "good" but remember as the years go by what many believed to be "good" at one time was 8Cr13MoV, 440C, 1095, AUS8, etc. ad infinitum. Knife steel continues to improve and develop but that doesn't necessarily mean much of the steel still used such as 8Cr13MoV is junk.
 
AUS8 & 8cr13MOV are very similar in elements, heat treatment, etc. They share similar amounts of carbon & Chromium. Abd both have a very small amount of Vanadium. For all intents & purpose, they really are basically the same. But given the choice, I would take Japanese AUS8 over the Chinese produced 8cr13MOV. But then I learned to make knives, and now I can use a mans steel! LOL!

Seriously, as Vinifera posted, these steels have been used for many years. And at one time, they were considered top steels. Eh, I remember it wasn't too long ago that 440c was considered a "Super Steel"! Makes ya think, "what will come next?".
 
AUS8 & 8cr13MOV are very similar in elements, heat treatment, etc. They share similar amounts of carbon & Chromium. Abd both have a very small amount of Vanadium. For all intents & purpose, they really are basically the same. But given the choice, I would take Japanese AUS8 over the Chinese produced 8cr13MOV. But then I learned to make knives, and now I can use a mans steel! LOL!

Seriously, as Vinifera posted, these steels have been used for many years. And at one time, they were considered top steels. Eh, I remember it wasn't too long ago that 440c was considered a "Super Steel"! Makes ya think, "what will come next?".

If they keep making it harder and harder eventually we won't be able to sharpen it. It will become harder than the stones and diamonds and then what will we all do for fun and enjoyment


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If they keep making it harder and harder eventually we won't be able to sharpen it. It will become harder than the stones and diamonds and then what will we all do for fun and enjoyment


Making steel "harder" is only one aspect of its characteristics. And it's an over simplification of what is trying to be accomplished. There already exist steels that are harder than you can imagine knife steel to be. CPM M4, between 62-65hrc is something indeed. But itself seems like sponge material when working with CPM s125V. And in turn, forget all comers when up against The CPM REX line or T15, 76 & 121! These steels will practically MELT your stones on contact! LOL! "Not fun to work with", is a drastic understatement! And it's not just the hardness, but rather the combination of said with a wear resistance that would make U235's half life jealous! So much goes into steel formulation. It's amazing how slight adjustments of elements can drastically change its characteristics. You want to kill a bunch of hours, just start researching here... http://www.crucible.com/eSelector.htm Wealth of interesting knowledge for knife people.
 
I started with 8Cr, have gone through M4, HAP40, S110V (little bit, haven't sharpened it extensively), and found that when my technique improved (VG10 was challenging), I can get better edge with 8Cr (my Resilience). So I am getting Cara2 again (really like the design, but not the steel, in the past).

I like my knives at that top 5% sharpness (dry face shaving) and found that this level of sharpness requires touch up often, no matter what the steel is.

YMMV.
 
No offense but yesterday's improved steel eventually becomes "junk" steel to some. I've been around a long time and have experienced and used all kinds of steel used in knives for many years and get a kick out of these types of observations. Sorry but I don't view 8Cr13MoV as "junk". Save up your money and buy something "good" but remember as the years go by what many believed to be "good" at one time was 8Cr13MoV, 440C, 1095, AUS8, etc. ad infinitum. Knife steel continues to improve and develop but that doesn't necessarily mean much of the steel still used such as 8Cr13MoV is junk.

whatever makes you sleep at night. I don't agree with your opinion
 
I find that all these entry level steels are great for a new knife user. It's easy to learn sharpening and maintenance of the knife with said steel. I find that it's a bit more corrosion prone when compared to AUS8A, but holds an edge slightly better. If the edge isn't thorough ruined, some light stropping would bring it back to a usable edge. I've also heard some refer to it as the Chinese version of 440C, which at one point was really good.

I gave my Sco Persistence away purely because i have higher end steels in my cabinet, and the guy i gave it to never had a decent blade, so best to put it to good use yea.

As far as modern steels displacing what used to be THE steel, i find some truth to it, however, these entry level steels will always be relevant to new knife users. I would rarely recommend a steel with higher wear resistance than VG10 to a customer who is new to knives. I mean, i could always get some sharpening business from them when they have a heck of a time trying to sharpen it back up, but i'd rather they learn to maintain their knives for self sufficiency.
 
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