9/20 Bura Village Special

A

arty

Joined
Oct 18, 2003
Messages
1,777
I just got the Bura Village Special from 9/20. It weighed in at 17 - 1/18 oz on my kitchen scale, and is about 15" long, as listed.
It is a nice blade, and worth the extra cost over my BAS Villager.
The white fittings appear to be steel, according to my magnet. This goes for the bolster and the but cap at the end of the tang.
None of my other villagers have a steel bolster - all appear to be white metal, thought one sirupati has a steel but cap.
The blade is about 10-1/2" long, and a nice shape. It has a nice balance and feel... substantial but not blade heavy.
It feels alive.
The Formby tung oil varnish is drying right now.

I am glad that the mailman arrived while I was doing an oil change ....My wife would have gone ballistic if she had seen another box from Hi - even if only rectangular, as this one was.
Incidentally, a maniac decided to put the oil filter in an impossible position on the Honda CR/V. It is actually worth paying someone to change the oil/filter in this sucker.
 
Congratulations on the blade, arty. I know about the filter. Even on my wife's 95 Honda Civic it is hard to remove, and Honda sells a special tool just to do it.




munk
 
Feel your pain on the oil change. I drive a Nissan Frontier P/U, Oil Filter is reached through the Right Wheel Well.

Think that was the Special that I was admiring. Nice purchase.
 
I bought the Honda cap filter wrench and I couldn't get the filter off with it.
I spoke to the mechanic at Honda, and he showed me what he used...it was a claw-like wrench that grabs the filter with three prongs - and the diameter gets smaller as you turn it.
It worked, but there is no way to get the filter off without getting some oil drip on...everything.
There is a frame member in the way, as well as part of the suspension and drive shaft. Getting to the oil filter on the CR/V is torture.

But the Bura village special is nice.
 
That's a nice blade from the picture on 9/20. Any chance of some more pics?

I have to figure out why I keep passing on nice villagers then kicking myself afterward. Guess none of them have been meant for me...
 
The kind of non standard villagers, the huge YCS Kardas, that Village Chainpuri yesterday with the yellow handle, the trishul, HI is really coming thru with some really unique peices lately! :thumbup:
 
I'll take a photo if someone will post it for me...never posted photos.
I have Yvsa's email, but don't know if he is available.

I can email a photo to someone who will post it. It is easy to take a digital photo.
 
I can post it.

sassas[spamatyourownrisk]@khukuri.net

drop the brackets and their contents...
 
Yea, I thought that was a beauty, and real practical looking kuk. I have a 2001 Accord that is a royal PITA to change the oil. I finally broke down and pay someone to do mine too (I thought that day would never come. Guess I just never owned a Honda before :( ) Thank God they never break!

stevo
 
I just emailed a jpeg to SASSAS - I wanted to reduce the size first.
I have dialup, and so I didn't want to send a large file.
 
arty said:
I just emailed a jpeg to SASSAS - I wanted to reduce the size first.
I have dialup, and so I didn't want to send a large file.
Click to expand...

Here's Arty's pic of his villager...:)
Sorry about the size. I am limited to 100 kb and had to resize Arty's original.
 
Yvsa - Thanks. After sending the 100 kb file, I sent a couple of smaller(32kb) ones.
It may not be easy to see in this photo, but the blade appears to be slightly hollow ground. I wonder if it is forged this way, or if Bura just takes a large grinding wheel to the steel to hollow the blade out and lighten it.

The pjeg was taken after one coat of tung oil wiping varnish. More are on the way.
 
arty said:
I just got the Bura Village Special from 9/20. It weighed in at 17 - 1/18 oz on my kitchen scale, and is about 15" long, as listed.
It is a nice blade, and worth the extra cost over my BAS Villager.
The white fittings appear to be steel, according to my magnet. This goes for the bolster and the but cap at the end of the tang.
None of my other villagers have a steel bolster - all appear to be white metal, thought one sirupati has a steel but cap.
The blade is about 10-1/2" long, and a nice shape. It has a nice balance and feel... substantial but not blade heavy.
It feels alive.
The Formby tung oil varnish is drying right now.

I am glad that the mailman arrived while I was doing an oil change ....My wife would have gone ballistic if she had seen another box from Hi - even if only rectangular, as this one was.
Incidentally, a maniac decided to put the oil filter in an impossible position on the Honda CR/V. It is actually worth paying someone to change the oil/filter in this sucker.
Click to expand...

My Ford Conture was like that...There was NO direct path for any sort of wrench to go down to the filter... BUT... There is a very strange looking tool, that consists of a 1/2"ID square pipe that fits on a 1/2" ratchet wrench that has a slot in the other end with a length of seatbelt looped through it, that works WONDERS...you just fit the loop of seatbelt over the filter, and start turning... The seatbelt winds around the square pipe and when it snuggs up, it is like a solid pipe welded to the filter... I could not beleave how well it works!
If that type does not work...Check the auto supply stores...A well supplied one with have more WEIRD looking tools for removing oil filters than anything you can imagine... And ONE of them will make the job so easy, that it will amaze you!
 
I used to have a Ford Fairmont that had one of those difficult oil filter locations. You had to use a special wrench that I got from Ford. You could only get to the filter from above - because of the suspension frame. It required a long wrench extension - about 18" - to get the filter wrench down on the filter.

That one was easy!

I found a 3-claw oil filter wrench that works. But you have to lie on the ground and go through contortions to reach around the frame and drive to get to the filter. There isn't much clearance below the Honda, and I don't like the idea of ramps.

I got the filter off, but it wasn't a piece of cake.

On my Camry - the filter is on top of the engine and is easy to get on and off.
 
I buy the K&N Performance filters that come formed with a molded extrusion for a 1" wrench at the end. Makes getting them off in a tight place a lot easier. On mine, unscrew the filter from the left fender well side of the car and pull it out and let it start draining. Then to the top front of the car and turn the filter 90 degrees to the front and then 90 degrees down and rest it on the tranny cooler lines closed end down. Then crawl under the car and reach up and pull the filter down and out without spilling the remaining oil inside all over your face, and then into the drain pan. What a royal PITA! Luckily I bought one of those Fumoto drain valves to replace the pan plug, so I just flip that open and save some mess there.

Norm
 
My last car (a '90 Toyota Cressida, aka the Black Bomber) was a technological nightmare from a mechanic's point of view and every bit of maintenance was wonderfully painful.

Replacing a headlight bulb necessitated removal of the entire airbox. Changing out the #5 and #6 spark plugs required removal of the throttle body and fuel rail. A new starter took the better part of the weekend and wound up with the car jacked up and both front wheels removed. Changing the oil filter was nearly impossible. (I had to fabricate a wrench to remove it and it was still terrible.) Every time something broke, it seemed that Toyota had built the car around that part. It was unreal. I don't know how they did it.

Don't ask about my VW. I'm not entirely sure where the oil filter is even located. I fill the tank, check the fluids, and let the stealership deal with the rest.

It's enough to make me miss my old Ford Courier. Almost.
 
Satori, I hear ya on the VW. This is my second one. Ever tried to change the headlights? Pasenger side is cake. Driver side is a certified nightmare. You have to pull the battery and the battery box out (subsequently securing power to your vehicle, so you'll need the code for your stereo heandy). After that, then you have to remove the rear cover, and then an inner cover, only to realize you need hands the size of your 5 year old sister (fictional) to be able to fit inside and remove the lightbulb. (but only after you've figured out their diabolical retention clip which you can't see) It's a very joyous experience wich will take several hours.

mike
 
I used to have a Chevy Lumina. Changing the plugs required tilting the engine!
I let the dealer do that.
I have given up on changing belts on some cars. It took an hour to replace the unibelt on my Windstar, but it looks impossible on the Camry 4Cyl.
Forget it on the Honda....this is a dealer job.
Replacing the plugs on the Windstar required removal of the cowl in the engine compartment. I bet that the mechanic had himself hoisted on a lift to get to the back plugs.
The first time that the dealer mechanic did the plug change, he forgot to attach the windshield wiper cleaner hose for the back wiper. The Ford dealer never liked to add enough antifreeze after doing a flush of the radiator and cooling system. It was a good thing that I carried extra in the van.
 
That villager looks alot like my Shop 1 WWII, especially the blade profile. I'm not much of a sharker, but post one of those in an 18" length with a horn handle as a DOTD and I'd bite.

Bob
 
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