90degree angle Knife-use/Tinder preparation

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Jan 12, 2014
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This is a topic that is sure to illicit differing perspectives but is a vital aspect to the survival/wilderness skills of any individual who wants to thrive in that environment instead of languishing.

Feathering vs scraping- If anyone that lives in an environment where the climate is predominantly wet or humid , then finding dry tinder materials especially in cooler weather is difficult. Even still feathering , no matter how thin is not always an expedient means of starting fire whether you use a bow drill, or some other combustion device like a fire steel. Yet the dust generated from scraping seems to be more advantageous and would definitely dry out faster than feathering from a stick or twig. Dry grass and leaves are not always present either. However, scraping a stick at a 90 degree angle with a knife does generate finer wood shaving more effectively, yet the thought is that it ruins the knife blade.

Clearly in a life threatening situation a knife is a small price to pay. On the other hand, if you are on extended stay out in the bush a knife is your life line too.

Aside from carrying additional tinder materials- which are presumably lost or were simply forgotten what is the collective opinion?
 
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If your life depends on it you'll want something a bit faster.

Flares
[video=youtube;sA2NfR_RQBI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sA2NfR_RQBI[/video]

Wetfire, esbit, or trioxane tablets
[video=youtube;h3Hs9TS49TE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3Hs9TS49TE[/video]

Fire puck
[video=youtube;qb5IvQWFx3Y]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qb5IvQWFx3Y[/video]

Candles also work in a pinch.
 
If you don't have nice fire starters (see above) or natural tinder (birch bark etc) you'll have to do a lot of work for your fire. Get some dead wood, cut it and split it so you get to the dry stuff inside. Keep splitting until you have stuff that will actually take a flame from your feather sticks.

If it is raining while you are doing this you'll need to cover the fire with a piece of cardboard or something to keep the rain off until the fire is burning hot enough to not be put out by a little rain.

It might not work no matter how hard you try though. That is why I cheat in wet weather and bring fire starters. :)
 
If you sharpen the back of the knife to good squared angles they will scrape good enough to do a job like rough sandpaper. The shavings are very thin and you can save the blade with this method.
 
Another option similar to what Chignecto stated is to use the awl on a SAK or Camper pattern knife. I typically have either my Pioneer or Farmer on me. The awl can be used for scrapings and has become my preferred ferro rod striker. You can also use a limited section of the blade for the scrapings if you don't have either option.
 
I do like to look at this as different scenarios:


Outdoor emergency survival vs Bushcrafting
Although most bushcrafting skills could be transferable to 'outdoor survival', essentially they involve very different mind set/gear set:

Outdoor emergency survival: Involuntary situation, potentially life threatening. The end-game is to get/find rescued asap. Any techniques and gears that are effective, easy and efficient. For fire starting, think about the use of windproof lighter, flare, wetfire tinder, etc.

Bushcrafting: Voluntary and recreational. The end-game is to have fun staying in the wild. Study of (primitive) skills and use of gears that allows one to live and thrive in outdoor environment. For fire starting, think about the use of bow drill, friction fire, feather sticking.



Wet environment
If I were indeed in a really wet, cold and humid environment, then it really depends on whether I'm in 'survival' or 'bushcrafting' mode.

If I were in survival mode and have tried and exhausted all methods/gears possible, and the only way to get a fire going(and keep me alive) is by 'feather stick/baton/scrap', then (as you'd mentioned) potentially dulling a blade is just a small price to pay to save me from hypothermia(if the scarping can't be done via the knife spine).

But a more logical question is--given the really wet/cold/humid environment, known difficult to start fire, why aren't we bringing in more adequate gears to prevent getting stuck in/save us from that environment in the first place?

If 'bushcrafting', then it is just recreational and experimental. Edge of a knife is just resources, like any. Trading between starting fire and blade sharpness, it is just a fun subjective call. I have the option to get up and leave, if I ain't happy with :)


Feather sticking vs Scrapping
I think it is just two different ways to get tinder. It doesn't have to be one way or another, but if the 90 deg blade spine can do a good job scrapping, and I am just 'bushcrafting', then I would probably choose that since I have time/energy and would like to conserve the edge for other uses.
 
I use the spines of my knives constantly for fleshing hides, prepping fibers to make cordage, smoothing handles, wood scrapings for fire, etc. I leave a few inches close to the tip untouched for use with rocks (F&S) because some knife spines throw less sparks after having been filed down a bit. I have not noticed undue wear on the knife edge after being used to make scrapings, but then I almost always use the spine.

Wood scrapings can be made from any wood, though fatwood is my favorite. They are finer than the finest feathers/curls yet coarser than dust. Preferably the see through ribbon shavings like you can get from a very sharp block plane.

Wood scrapings usually catch the sparks from a ferro in less than ten scrapes and often in one. Feathers/curls usually take ten to fifty scrapes.
 
So few people will ever be in a true survival situation that it is almost not worth considering... almost.

While I ignite most of my fires with F&S using materials gathered on that hike, I always have at least a ferro, fresnel, Bic and some sort of prepared tinder along, even on dayhikes. Usually cottonballs (CBs) in a matchsafe and a Carmex/Chapstick tube that has been filled with petroleum jelly (PJ). I put a daub of PJ on a leaf or such then put a piece of CB on top, ignite and put in the fire lay. By the way, always good to put something nonporous where the PJ will be in your fire lay as when it melts it gets very thin and most of it disappears before burning.

While a road flare sure is convenient, will we ever truly need one to start a fire with? I have fallen through the ice more times than I care to admit yet I was always able to start a fire with matches or a ferro. A couple times I have been in serious hypothermia where I doubt I could have ignited a road flare. Key pinned to my thigh with both hands while leaning against the vehicle and I was worried I'd break the key before I got the door open I was shivering so violently. Scratched the heck out of that door panel. Taught me not to wait to get warm!! There is a slippery slope with hypothermia past which most of your options have gone out the window. On the other hand, catch it (and deal with it!!) quickly and it is no big deal.

For me if I'm using a ferro then I'm also using wood scrapings. So quick, easy and dependable that I rarely bother with anything else. For teaching I will mix any good tinder like wood scrapings, grass, pine needles, etc with plant fluffs like milkweed, cattail, thistle, etc. Nothing lights up a kid's eyes like one scrape then *whoosh!!*.

Wood scrapings are vastly faster and easier than feathers/curls. I have never needed to split wood in order to get a fire going. Even after days of rain there are plenty of dead standing fine branches that will work well enough if you know which species to look for. Gathering those is always going to be far faster and easier than splitting wood and making feathers/curls. The only good thing about feathers/curls being popular is at least more people are actually using their knives.

Speaking of feathers/curls being popular... it is pretty ridiculous to watch Mors expound on feathersticks while standing in front of copious amounts of fine dead standing twigs and birch trees. ROFL every time.

Can we say "make work" for the students. Yup, we sure can!
 
Curls are a great way to light wood from a bed of coals, and the control required to make excellent curls is a test of knife skill. That's why Kochanski focuses on them.
 
Agreed that Mors is using curls to teach more than just fire starting. The thing with most people these days is they run with things without understanding them. Worse yet, they vehemently attack anyone who questions or differs with them. Not going to learn much that way!!

Ask most why they make curls and they really don't know. All they know is "everyone else is doing it", aka EEIDI.

Ask most why a knife must be full tang. Again EEIDI. Point out that for 3,000 years almost every knife was not full tang. Further, that those people bet their lives on those knives while we are only engaging in a hobby. Blank stare then EEIDI.

Ask why they baton with a knife. EEIDI. Ask why they do not use skill when batoning. Blank stare then EEIDI. Point out that prior to the early 2000s virtually no one batoned with a knife. Indeed, it the 70s and 80s you would have been laughed out of camp for being such a clueless greenhorn. Blank stare then EEIDI.

Why are so many "bushcraft" knives these days full tang and 1/4" thick? EEIDI. Zero comprehension of what they are doing.

Sad.
 
...Ask most why they make curls and they really don't know. All they know is "everyone else is doing it", aka EEIDI...

You can call it marketing and the need for the brands to keep selling stuff.

We knife people enjoy thinking that we and our hobbie is "different" than everyone elses hobby. In the way that we deal with primitive tools, primitive skills, etc. However we sometimes fail to realise that our community is also affecte by trends, just like everything else.

And don't get me started on supersteels.... XD XD
 
l.t. wright leaves most of his spines square(if not all) precisely to promote using it as a sraper-hell if yo wanted you could probably turn one of the edges over just like a card scraper. any case it's nice to at least have the option to use the spine this way. not that i don't appreciate some softer, rounded ergos on spines too-i'm just sayin' , option is there not to dull your blade. i'm sure other makers of bushcrafting knives do this as well, and some don't, might be of note when choosing a blade.(ramble,ramble).
 
Agreed that Mors is using curls to teach more than just fire starting. The thing with most people these days is they run with things without understanding them. Worse yet, they vehemently attack anyone who questions or differs with them. Not going to learn much that way!!

Ask most why they make curls and they really don't know. All they know is "everyone else is doing it", aka EEIDI.

Ask most why a knife must be full tang. Again EEIDI. Point out that for 3,000 years almost every knife was not full tang. Further, that those people bet their lives on those knives while we are only engaging in a hobby. Blank stare then EEIDI.

Ask why they baton with a knife. EEIDI. Ask why they do not use skill when batoning. Blank stare then EEIDI. Point out that prior to the early 2000s virtually no one batoned with a knife. Indeed, it the 70s and 80s you would have been laughed out of camp for being such a clueless greenhorn. Blank stare then EEIDI.

Why are so many "bushcraft" knives these days full tang and 1/4" thick? EEIDI. Zero comprehension of what they are doing.

Sad.

Thank you all for the the insightful comments, differing perspectives and varied input from everyone starting with sideways and Chignecto and ending with duxdog- Excellent thread. In fact, the insights here are what make this a great learning tool for anyone reading it.

Perhaps duxdog could expand on the last post. Clearly the approach has changed along with the necessity. We are not in as an agrarian environment, nor many as resourceful as our predecessors. Yet I would love to know more about your position on use of curls and baton- ing with a knife and so forth.

Thank you all
 
Spot on Mikel_24. Good points Neal70. And everyone else for that matter.

Thank you all for the the insightful comments, differing perspectives and varied input from everyone... the insights here are what make this a great learning tool...
I agree, great posts in this thread. Since no one knows everything, even the most learned in one area can learn from someone else in other areas.

Clearly the approach has changed
If by that you mean the tool choices, I agree. As I pointed out earlier the tool choices have changed dramatically in my lifetime. Or that might have been in a different thread. Anyhow, they have!

The biggest aspect that has changed from where I stand is the lack of understanding. In the 70s craftsmanship in every task was valued. In the 80s it seemed like that was slipping. From the mid 90s on it has seemed to me that craftsmanship has held little value to most. Oh, there will always be some who see the value. Just my perception based on what I observe in the field, on forums, etc.

Seems to me that material (wood) selection criteria is especially lacking these days.

along with the necessity.
To a degree that is true. I can see how in a school environment the natural resources would eventually be stripped by a succession of classes. There above all other situations it would make the most sense to teach split wood techniques. The farther east of the Mississippi one goes, the greater the competition for resources tends to be. So that would be another factor to consider.

However, solo or in a small group and hiking in an area that does not see a lot of use (might be high traffic but most others are merely hiking through rather than using found resources) there will be plenty of found materials that will be quicker, easier and better to use than split wood. At least here in the Upper MidWest.

We are not in as an agrarian environment, nor many as resourceful as our predecessors.
More's the pity, hey? It seems to me they went hand in hand. Therein is exactly why I believe that those of us who know and do should be calling out the erroneous teachings of others. In other words, since so few these days have the experiential knowledge to discern the ins and outs of various approaches, it becomes all the more our duty to be the watchmen on the wall and sound the alarm. Never to suppress knowledge, never to force others to our point of view. Only to help keep the knowledge that actually works alive.

Most people are unaware of the origin and persistence of many outdoorsmanship myths. Some fellows and I on another forum years ago traced back some myths to the late 1800s. Roughly every 25 years they would crop up again, often quoted nearly verbatim. The problem is, none of us could make them work. Indeed, we concluded that they had never worked and that none of the authors had ever bothered to successfully perform them. And yet they published them as though they were established fact!!!

I think there can be no argument, indeed Waveone your post acknowledges it, that we have lost many of the skills and abilities that mankind once possessed. Think about how much the Native Americans, Fur Traders, etc knew about wilderness living skills. Generations of every day their very lives depending upon it!! I feel like it is a tragedy that we are not recording and spreading as much of that knowledge as possible. Think about how much time is being "wasted" (can dirt time ever *really* be a waste??) rediscovering what was once known.

I have spent a lot of time with books from the 17th, 18th, early 19th centuries and from the 1950s. When learning skills from those sources we quickly see that much of it assumes knowledge most do not have. Most of the descriptions are brief and poor requiring much experimentation to be able to perform consistently. Wouldn't it be a huge help to be able to pick up a book or watch a video and have a high probability of the accounts being factual, the skills as taught actually working, etc? Sadly that is not the case. Further, would it not be helpful to be able to find detailed, precise, factual knowledge about skills you are learning?

Yet I would love to know more about your position on use of curls and baton- ing with a knife and so forth.
What exactly are you looking for? If you have specific questions, that would greatly help.

My general thoughts are:

It is my observation that prior to about 2003, batoning with a knife was relatively unheard of and would have been ridiculed severely. Tool choices were considered important before then. Now batoning with a knife is the most popular and commonly shown method for splitting wood for fire prep. Does it work? Yup. Have I seen and heard of a lot of knives being broken this way? Yepper. Are there better tools for the job? Oh yeah, definitely. Pretty hilarious in my opinion to watch people in vids batoning with a knife while there is an axe, hatchet or tomahawk and plenty of suitable wood for making wedges with in frame. Nothing says clueless like that! Punching holes in the lids of Altoids tins would be a close runner up though.

Further, that effort and discussion about material selection was common back in the day. Now we very rarely hear it even glossed over. Indeed, there seems to be a machismo about finding the worst examples of the worst species then batoning them in the worst way.

Speaking of, we frequently hear people state "if you only had a knife, you would have to baton with it" who then go on to just hammer the heck out a knife through nasty wood. To that I say, not necessarily. To me it would become vastly more important to figure out if I **really needed** to baton. All knives will break from batoning. All. It is only ever a matter of when. Anyhow, if I concluded that yes, it is needed in this situation, my next highest concern would be to WISELY baton. Hey, if I'm stuck deep in the wilderness and my only metal tool is a knife, then that knife would instantly become my most treasured possession. Material selection and task methodology would be utmost in my mind in such a scenario. Yet these yahoos are teaching people the worst ways on the worst materials for the worst reasons. Someone ought to point out that the emperor has no clothes.

Allow me to add here that if someone wants to baton with a knife, hey it's your knife do whatever you want. I am merely passing on the hard won knowledge and perspective that I have accumulated over decades of studying and doing in the hope that being aware of more options will result in more enjoyable and safer outdoors experiences for everyone.

Perhaps duxdog could expand on the last post.
Happy to help if I can. Thanks for asking. How was that? Y'all have any other specific requests on aspects that require elaboration?
 
Here's a good vid about batoning with knives that touches on most of the points I have covered. Interesting that Dave Canterbury, whom we have seen baton countless times with quite a number of knives, is backing up what I have been asserting for a decade. Namely that there is no good reason for batoning with a knife and if we are going to, then we ought to do so intelligently. Cheers y'all!!

https://youtu.be/7m7YFiePmRY
 
Agree. Batoning was demonstrated as a survival technique, but it somehow became some prestige display for properly lighting fires. There are simply better tools to get wood split up, and generally one does not need to split wood into tiny slivers unless it's quite wet out.

Good technique to know, but it doesn't make sense as an everyday technique. I think a lot of people are getting tired of the reality tv mindset of youtubecraft displays as well.
 
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