940-2 Cant get it right

[Mr K]

hello all

trying to get my bench made 940-2 to be better
if loosen the screw to allow easy flicking the knife rattles when closed
one mm too tight and knife won't flick
suggestions?

 

[TiHawk60]

It's a fine line, for sure... fractions of a rotation of the pivot screw. If it's brand new, it could still just need "breaking in" but I've had my last 3 from the factory pretty bang on! Tighten enough to get no rattle (blade play when closed / open, I'm assuming?) and then just work it until it flicks nicely.

There are also options (with some DIYs around here) to take the blade / washers out, polish them up on some ultra-fine, wet sandpaper / leather strop and re-assemble with a dot of lube.

If it's used / older, it could need cleaning, too.

 

[Cypress]

It's a fine line, for sure... fractions of a rotation of the pivot screw.

This. Most knives need a small "bump" on the pivot screw to make it perfect. Like, put rotational pressure on the pivot screw, then as soon as it moves, release the pressure. Blue Loctite is your friend, but don't get it in the pivot.

The nice thing about Axis knives, is you can pull the pivot screw all the way out (most models) without disassembling the whole knife. Pop the pivot screw assembly out and the blade/washers should fall out. Clean them up, clean the frame where they ride, lube all surfaces, then put it back together and adjust the pivot screw SLOWLY until it's perfect. Let the Loctite set up and viola.

 

[Brusiedmeat]

Slightly tighten pivot and try opening/close it about 300 times. Just hold the axis back and wrist flip back and forth, just dont snap it back too hard. Try NOT to cut anyone. If still not satisfied, polish the washers and few drops of nano oil will have it butter smooth.

 

[Scott321]

Personally, putting a few drops of oil in the pivot (without disassembly) and just everyday use tends to break my BM's within a few days to a week.

That being said, when I started with BM, I disassembled the knives, cleaned all the surfaces, loctite on all screws (careful not to get too much and have it squish out onto the washers requiring another disassembly cleaning), a "vigorous" wiping of the washers with a paper towel laid flat on the table (lazy polish), and oil on the washers. They opened and closed like glass after that.

Nowadays, I put a drop of oil in the pivot area and carry it a week to break in before I decide to make any adjustments or not. Usually, after a week, they are pretty smooth and lockup tight without any adjustment and only require an occasional drop of oil on the pivot area.

 

[Wowbagger]

It's a fine line, for sure... fractions of a rotation of the pivot screw.

Yes. I like to think in degrees as in 360 degrees is a full rotation.
For my knife pivots as little as two degrees can make the difference.
For what it is worth my 940-1 is so sweet ! Totally perfect action. I don't recall if I adjusted it.
If I did it was my usual two to three degrees. I just barely turn the screw then try the knife for a while. Later take up a degree tighter and see how it is then; you know . . . to take out some or all of the play. I sure didn't have to fool with mine much if at all.

My 710 and my Para2 in M4 (not DLC) both of those I have had to mess with a bunch and neither one is remotely as good as my 940-1. Lately the 710 has been doing great and the Para2 has been sluggish. To be positive though my Para2 in S30V (DLC) and Camo scales is a dream come true pivot wise straight from the factory in Golden ! ! ! I didn't touch the pivot.

 

[Lapedog]

Alot of 940s including mine seem to have no sweet spot where you get the free swinging axis lock action and zero blade play. Seems like I have to decide between one or the other.

 

[Mo2]

Send it to Benchmade until they fix it under warranty. Might take a few tries.