A Bird And Trout Pattern I Came Up With

redsquid2

redsquid2

Красивы Поросенок
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Aug 31, 2011
Messages
3,070
I am sorry for the double post.

I designed this knife based on certain assumptions, the first one being that birds and trouts are not 500-pound beasts with hooves or horns. I was going for thinner and slicier. However, I am surprised there is not more flex in it, because I have made flexier knives.

Steel: 154CM treated by Peters' for 60HRC
Blade is 3 7/16"
Blade thickness is .103"
OAL is 7 1/2"
Handle is 1/2” thick at the thickest point, and tapers a bit toward the front.

What do you all think? Does it look like a good one to take fishing or bird hunting? Thank you in advance for constructive criticism, or glowing praise, or rhubarb pie recipes, or anything other than "You're an idiot."

--Andy

50448746836_0746c2feb9_b.jpg
 
Last edited:
redsquid2 said:
I am sorry for the double post.

I designed this knife based on certain assumptions, the first one being that birds and trouts are not 500-pound beasts with hooves or horns. I was going for thinner and slicier. However, I am surprised there is not more flex in it, because I have made flexier knives.

Steel: 154CM treated by Peters' for 60HRC
Blade is 3 7/16"
Blade thickness is .103"
OAL is 7 1/2"
Handle is 1/2” thick at the thickest point, and tapers a bit toward the front.

What do you all think? Does it look like a good one to take fishing or bird hunting? Thank you in advance for constructive criticism, or glowing praise, or rhubarb pie recipes, or anything other than "You're an idiot."

--Andy

50448746836_0746c2feb9_b.jpg
Click to expand...
I'm a newbie and I'm just now working on my second knife so take this with a grain of salt, but I like it. Funny thing is I have been looking at doing the same style and just laid out a template tonight for knives 4-7 that is a bird and trout, or so I hope. I'm working with 1/8" stock so I'm curious how you get some flex in there. Wanting the same but I may be too thick to start. Great job! Sorry I can't offer any constructive criticism yet but I'd be speaking out of turn.
 
Looks great man, handy wee knife. You could probably make the finger guard a bit smaller for aesthetics and to keep things slim and streamlined.

Could do a larger beast with it too no problem
 
Nice profile for a B&T,
+1 on the finger guard,
Good looking knife
 
I’d agree on the finger guard otherwise I like it. To get some flex in a short blade you’ll have to use thinner stock. I’ve made bird and trouts with 0.06” steel and those have some flex.
 
Brad McHatton said:
I'm a newbie and I'm just now working on my second knife so take this with a grain of salt, but I like it. Funny thing is I have been looking at doing the same style and just laid out a template tonight for knives 4-7 that is a bird and trout, or so I hope. I'm working with 1/8" stock so I'm curious how you get some flex in there. Wanting the same but I may be too thick to start. Great job! Sorry I can't offer any constructive criticism yet but I'd be speaking out of turn.
Click to expand...

thank you for your input.

I think the key to gettiing some flex is simply thinness. Of course that takes patience and care. Like care not to bend the steel before heat treat. And care not to get the steel too hot while grinding after heat treat. I think it would take me too long to thin down 1/8" stock and I wouldn't have the patience for it.

Here is my rant on why thin is good: I keep reading on the forums that too many knives are too thick; not slicey enough. Also there is Barionyx, a knife seller that specifically provides the service of thinning down the edges on the knives they sell. Many Mora knives are only 1/16" thick and have a reputation for being useful and versatile. I have a paring knife that is about 1/16" thick, and I would trust it on a backpacking trip, since I don't use my knives for prying or digging, or splitting kindling.
 
Last edited:
One way you could get some more flex with thicker material is use a small contact wheel and put in a fuller, this would take some meat away that makes the knife stiff but doesn’t sacrifice strength. Think of an s grind on a kitchen knife but not quite as thin in the middle of the hollow. That design looks nice, I agree that finger choil looks too large. I’m not a fan of sharpening choils on most knives as it’s a place to snag.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top