A boo yah! and some honing questions

M

MGF

Joined
Jul 13, 2005
Messages
137
Boo yah! The man in brown dropped off the latest package from New Graham, which contained both a set of diamond stones and a set of ultra fines for my Sharpmaker.

(There's nothing in the house right now that needs the diamonds, but I had to have 'em. Might run into a real dull knife some day, eh?)

The ultra fine stones are sweet. Just took a KaBar Dozier folding hunter through the medium, the fine and the ultra fine steps and ... oh, so happy.

Now the questions: I've just been stropping freshly sharpened edges on the sleeve of a suede jacket and getting what I consider nice edges ... easily paper cutting and hair shavin' (maybe hair poppin', though i've never been clear on the term. the hairs do seem to jump up onto the flat of the blade, though.)

You think I should go the next step and get some HandAmerican leather hones and some chromium oxide? Are the results worth the extra step? Been reading some of the links here, and I'm kind of leaning toward getting the basic 11x3 set of natural and finished red hones.

And, if I do get those, do you charge the red at all? If you call HandAmerican, are they pretty patient with beginner's silly questions?

I think I'm bit by the sharpening bug ... just seem to have the need to keep getting to that next level. And before anyone suggests the EdgePro ... I am working my way up to it.

Thanks.
 
the hairs do seem to jump up onto the flat of the blade
Click to expand...
This is what is meant by "hair popping"

You think I should go the next step and get some HandAmerican leather hones and some chromium oxide?
Click to expand...
Depends on what you want. This setup is definitely the top of the food chain in terms of leather hones and potential outcome. So, if you want to polish your edges so that they gleam, this is what you want. If you are after a durable cutting edge, this is overkill. A braggin' edge and a durable cuttin' edge are two different animals. If you want a durable cutting edge, in all reality, the regular white fine rods on the S/M are where you should stop at. If you want a braggin' edge then, spend your cash as you see fit.
 
Scrap leather would also work Ted and cost less.
Click to expand...
I totally agree. I use split-cowhide that I got as scrap from a local tack (horse saddle) shop. I glue the rough side down and apply CrO to the smooth side, using mineral oil to help it emulsify and soak in. I have been very pleased with the results. Total cost: Leather $5, CrO $5. Smile on my face when the hair lays over on the blade without touching the blade to my skin, $Priceless.
 
What is split cow hide?
Click to expand...
It's the good stuff (leather) that they make saddles, bridles, etc out of. It is usually 1/8 to 3/16 inches thick. Very smooth on one side and rough on the other. Typically, it's pretty stiff (not hard, but ruggedly stiff) stuff. If you know how a really good new baseball glove feels - That's split cowhide.

It works good for a strop because it loads up real easily with polishing compound, but does not give easily when pressing a blade against it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top