A bushcraft knife and a field dressing knife

F

FreskFesk

Joined
Mar 14, 2012
Messages
6
Hello, everybody!

I've almost gone mad trying to find the right knives for me. I've looked into most steels on the marked, but every single one seems to fail at one or more of my criteria.

They need not be stainless, but has to be fixed blades. I also like drop point blades.

As the title says, I'm looking for a bushcraft knife and a field dressing knife. The bushcraft knife should be an all purpose blade about 6 inches, preferably convex edged (but I can always regrind most other blade types, so it doesn't really matter). Also, the handle should have good grip (no need for it to be fancy), and I want the sheath to be plastic/kydex with molle capability (molle capability not required). For the steel/heat treat in this knife my priorities are:

1. Toughness
2. Edge holding/wear resistance
3. Fineness of edge/ability to take an edge

I've considered the ESEE 6, but the 1095 doesn't seem to have the edge holding/wear resistance required (I watched a video on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G66BmCuaf4U&feature=related)

For my field dressing/general "small use" knife I also prefer convex edge, about 3 1/2"-4", and good grip over fancy grip. For the steel/heat treat in this knife my priorities are:

1. Edge holding/wear resistance
2. Fineness of edge/ability to take an edge

My hands are about 3 3/4" or 9.5cm wide, so the handle should be longer than that.

Also, steel discussion of recommendations are very welcome.

Thanks for reading my really long post!
 
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Have you looked at the BK series yet? You might want to take a look at the BK2 or BK7.
 
I have, and for the price it's supposed to be excellent! :D But according to other forum threads, the ESEE 6 is supposed to be better (build quality, warranty, sheath, etc.), and price is not a problem to me.

Thanks for the reply!
 
I would use 52100.. There are a few makers here that use it and reasonable prices.

GL Drew, Salem Straub, Bailley.... I have a few Bill Buxtons and they are awesome.

Nick Wheeler too..
 
For which knife do you propose this steel? I think that for such different knives, different steels aught to be used.
 
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/909663-BushCrafter-in-S30v-!!!SOLD!!!

If you're considering reasonably priced custom j.hoover makes anything you want in house from start to finish. If you check his latest started threads you'll find things like the busher above. So far he's my favorite and really knows his stuff and is great with helping you design exactly what you're looking for. I've had a lot of production knives and realizing that a custom isn't that much more and of much greater quility I'm trading all my knives out one at a time.
 
FreskFesk said:
I've considered the ESEE 6, but the 1095 doesn't seem to have the edge holding/wear resistance required (I watched a video on youtube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G66BmCuaf4U&feature=related)
Click to expand...

The ESEE-6's 1095 might not hold an edge forever, but it will also be much easier to sharpen in the field then some of the "super steels". That's a trade off you have to decide is worth it or not.

The ESEE-6 would definitely be my choice in that size range.

For your field dressing/general small use knife, I'd recommend the ESEE-3.
 
I highly recommend the two blades in this picture. The first is the spyderco bushcraft blade. The second is the cub bear from Knives of alaska. The spyderco is O1 tool steel with a true scandi grind. The sheath is leather with a plastic insert. They are currently available with a G10 handle. The cub bear is AUS8, the sheath is leather, and the handle is more of a 3 finger operation. Neither sheath is molle compatible. I put a convex edge on the cub bear and it takes and holds an edge my dad refers to as "Oh sh** that's sharp." It is easy to bring back with sand paper over a leather backing. The spyderco takes an edge that is amazing in every way- I don't even let my dad hold this one- and is equally as easy to maintain with sandpaper over a smooth tile (I bought a sample marble tile from Lowes). If the operator holds his end of the bargain both will keep an edge long enough to process several deer with ease.

photo.jpg
 
I would caution against holding a grudge against 1095 based off of one internet review. Keep in mind the ESEE-3 has a thinner blade than the 6 models. From my experience 1095 is an excellent steel and has superior edge-holding compared to many common high-grade knife steels. While not the absolute best of the best, it is very good and will serve you well for bushcraft -- there is a reason its used in so many bushcraft knives. The heat treatment done by Rowan on ESEE's blades in particular has a solid reputation.

That being said, there are a few nicer options you may like.

Scrapyard Knives currently has a 3, 5, and a 7 inch series in SR101 steel which is a proprietary heat-treated 52100 (high speed ball-bearing) steel in the 100-200$ range.
http://www.scrapyardknives.com/intro.htm
sykco711_intro.jpg


Similarly Swamp Rat Knife Works also offers a variety of knives in high-end steels. Currently they have a sprint run of a 9 and 4 inch blade in SR101 also in the 100-200$ range (http://www.swampratknifeworks.com/) Both Swap Rat and Scrap Yard have excellent reputations and a strong following, both of which are owned by the highly revered Busse Combat Group (mentioned below) and are colloquially referred to as Busse-kin.
Here are some smaller 3.5" "rodent solution" models in SR101. Did I mention they're purdy and out of stock ;)
Picture1-6.png

More swamp rats:
http://www.shop.ratknives.com/main.sc


Now, if you really want the best of the best, go with INFI steel offered by Busse combat (and some rare swamp rat and scrap yard models). If you're new to knives check out the Busse section in the manufacturers forum, or just ask around. They are touted as some of the best knives currently made, and by all accounts, Busse's proprietary INFI steel is a contender for the best knife knife steel on the market. They are expensive (400$ +++), exclusive and you generally have to buy or trade for them over the internet or at special knife shows. Busse's web sites generally suck and are confusing as they only show a small percentage of their knives, usually the current sprint runs. There are tons of them out there for trade or sale by private owners.

Heres a video very relevant to your topic on INFI steel edge retention: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kKbVMF017PI

Good luck!
 
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For a larger bushcraft knife you can't go wrong with a Koster Bushmaster. CPM 3V steel holds an edge well but is extremely tough, the handle is grippy and comfortable and the blade shape is very versatile. Check his subforum here to track one down or PM me if you are interested in finding one. For a field dressing knife check out Bob Doziers knives, he make many different models all with D2 steel and his legendary heat treat. Field dressing with one of his knives make the animal feel like it has zipper it is so effortelss!
 
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I have to second the Spyderco Bushcraft, its only 4 in. though. The o 1 steel is an interesting choice though. .85-1.0 Carbon, .40-.60 Chromium, 1.0-1.4 Manganese, .30 Nickel and Vandium, .50 Tungsten and Silicon. The tungsten adds a nice strength and hardness to the steel.

First Post!
-Mike
 
CaneC808 said:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/909663-BushCrafter-in-S30v-!!!SOLD!!!

If you're considering reasonably priced custom j.hoover makes anything you want in house from start to finish. If you check his latest started threads you'll find things like the busher above. So far he's my favorite and really knows his stuff and is great with helping you design exactly what you're looking for. I've had a lot of production knives and realizing that a custom isn't that much more and of much greater quility I'm trading all my knives out one at a time.
Click to expand...

Thanks! That looks like a great knife, and the skinner he just posted looks even better IMHO. How long do you think I would have to wait if I ordered a fully custom of my own design from him? And would it be more expensive (guess he's the one who has to answer that question)?
 
EK20 said:
The ESEE-6's 1095 might not hold an edge forever, but it will also be much easier to sharpen in the field then some of the "super steels". That's a trade off you have to decide is worth it or not.

The ESEE-6 would definitely be my choice in that size range.

For your field dressing/general small use knife, I'd recommend the ESEE-3.
Click to expand...

Thanks for replying! I'm quite convinced about the 6. I like all of it! ;) I think I want a more wear resistant knife for the smaller knife, though.

Anybody know about a small knife in S90V? That seems like the kind of steel i would like. Or perhaps CPM M4? I've heard that it's really supposed to be great if the rc is high enough. All comments on these steels are very welcome.
 
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Thanks to all for the great info! I will considered all the knives mentioned here. Great response, I must say.

I would really like a Busse, but it seems so hard to get one. The video on edge retention was very convincing!
 
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You also might look at the Ritter MK2 (Becker BK12). Its another 6in blade made by Rowen, with the same HT and warranty as the ESEE6, but with a (in many peoples opinion) better handle design, different blade shape, and without a choil (slightly longer cutting edge).

Also, for the small knife, have you looked at the BlackJack Model 155? Its got a smaller blade than you might be looking for, but its 154CM and a nice sized handle for a neck style knife (4 fingers for many).

What about the AG Russel Deer Skinner?
http://www.agrussell.com/ag-russell-deer-hunter/p/AGDH-D2/
 
Off the top of my head, it sounds like Scrapyard has you covered with the 711 and 311 models. The only downside is that they do not come with sheaths. However, there are many excellent sheath-makers out there who could accommodate your every need. I would recommend Mashed Cat if you want high-quality kydex.
 
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