A Couple New Fixed Straights

[Phillip Dobson]

I just finished up my second razor yesterday. I feel the collection is coming along nicely.

The razors are Japanese-ground fixed straights; traditionally inspired, but not completely traditionally styled. I ground these from CPM M4 at 64Rc. The handle scales are desert ironwood burl, the other blade is sporting a black oxide finish.

I also made up a holder for them (and friends in the future). It's made from bigleaf maple burl, ringed gidgee, and Australian ebony (thanks to Mark aka Burlsource).

They both provide a very smooth shave. The little one is especially nimble and comfortable.

Thanks for looking.

Phillip

 

[amcardon]

Those are beautiful! I have been wondering about Japanese straights, I'd really like to try one out one of these days... I have also been trying to figure out a nice looking display for my straights and am also using a piece of australian ringed gidgee from Mark - beautiful stuff! Your display also looks top notch, as expected!

 

[zyhano]

awesome philip!
did you forge them?
edit: reread your post... no need for previous question!

 

[Phillip Dobson]

Those are beautiful! I have been wondering about Japanese straights, I'd really like to try one out one of these days... I have also been trying to figure out a nice looking display for my straights and am also using a piece of australian ringed gidgee from Mark - beautiful stuff! Your display also looks top notch, as expected!

This is the best type of stand/box/container I've come up with so far.It's easy to make too. Just cut a block into slices and insert thin spacers. The saddle rests in a shallow dado. You can also use a solid bock like I did in this one:

This was my first attempt at this style of holder, in curly koa, desert ironwood, and damascus.

 

[Bhamster]

Wow m4! That had to have been a bear to grind. Use up many belts to do it?

 

[Phillip Dobson]

Wow m4! That had to have been a bear to grind. Use up many belts to do it?

I've been through so many Blazes in the past month...

Fortunately I don't know any better, as this is the first steel alloy that I've ground on my KMG. All I know is annealed M4 (bad), and hard M4 (much worse). I have noticed that it's almost impossible to hand-sand. My previous blades used CPM 154 and were made entirely with files and sandpaper. I couldn't have done that with the M4.

Here's looking forward to my new sheet of CPM 154.

 

[mqqn]

Hi Phillip -

Your work and sense of style is amazing.

The holder is a work of art by itself!

I particularly love maple burl (well, all burl wood for that matter), and I enjoy seeing your boxes and handle scales - I have crawled all through your galleries...

I look forward to seeing your Kitchen knives up close and personal, and I also look forward to sending you a couple more of my current collection to have you make scales for them.

Thanks for the wonderful eye-candy!

best regards -

mqqn

 

[ChapmanPreferred]

Phillip,

Couple questions if you do not mind. If you would rather take this to PM or email, that would be also be great.

What size wheel are you using for the hollows? What thickness steel?

Thanks,

Doug

 

[Phillip Dobson]

Phillip,

Couple questions if you do not mind. If you would rather take this to PM or email, that would be also be great.

What size wheel are you using for the hollows? What thickness steel?

Thanks,

Doug

I used a 10" wheel on the back, and a 3" on the front grind.

The steel stock was 1/8" (.135"). This is about as thin as I'd like to go. It worked well for the little guy, but on the larger razor it made for a very shallow edge angle. The stock was simply the leftovers from waterjet cutting some kitchen knives. My next sheet of razor steel will be .18" and I think that it will work a little better (and allow me to make some big 7/8 blades).

 

[amcardon]

I keep coming back to look at those pics... I really need to start saving up for a fixed straight, these just look amazing; I think the black oxide finish is my favorite. Don't get me wrong, the wood looks fantastic, I just like the subtle, simple elegance of the oxide finished blade. Seriously makes me consider selling some knives to be able to pick up a fixed straight!

 

[ChapmanPreferred]

Why did you use two different grind diameters?

 

[kamagong]

Beautiful pieces. I've long been intrigued by the Japanese straights, but the spike point design has me a bit intimidated. Have you ever considered making a round design?

 

[Phillip Dobson]

Why did you use two different grind diameters?

The Japanese razors I had seen use an asymmetrical grind, and I simply wanted to try it out. It does have an effect on the way I shave, but I don't think it's a negative one. Shaving with the "ura" side close to my face is incredibly smooth. I did take some getting used to, though.

Beautiful pieces. I've long been intrigued by the Japanese straights, but the spike point design has me a bit intimidated. Have you ever considered making a round design?

I have some new steel on the way and I plan on making a variety of shapes and grinds to see what I like best. I'm not getting these cut on the waterjet, so I'll be free to just "see where the grinder takes me". I'm looking forward to it.

The spike was kinda rough for the few couple of shaves, (especially considering how short the blade is). I got a couple of tiny nicks during the learning stages. I have since developed more tip control and I don't even notice it anymore. Extra control is never a bad thing.

Phillip

 

[amcardon]

Phillip, if you wouldn't mind, could you email me a projected price range for your japanese straights? I would imagine it is further out of my range than I would like to think but I'm really curious what I should expect to have to put together for one of these. They are really beautiful and I keep coming back to look at them... Anyway, I'm just wondering just how many nickels I need to put aside if I want to get one eventually!

Thanks!