There are times when I turn the steel the wrong way when I start hammering. Once, I was trying for a star pattern down the length of the blade and after a few operations, dropped the metal. When I picked it up, the steel was oriented 90 degrees off. The metal was red hot and I failed to catch the altered position. Instead of 3/4" stars along the sides, I had 1/8" stars on the spine. I use two different steels that contrast in appearance. The steel is built up in layers and each layer hammer welded to the other layers. Slag inclusions are a no-no. Samo-samo layers that did not get welded up completely. How you twist the metal, how you drill it, how you file it before hammering, how you taper the blade, and finally, how you hammer it, all control what the pattern looks like. There is simple twist, angel's hair, waterfall or cascade, double twist, bird's eye or shotgun pattern, ladder, star, chevron, and others. Ever seen a shotgun barrel of pattern welded steel where you could still make out the horse shoe nails welded up to make the tube? There was a smith in Europe figured out how to pattern weld his name in the steel without welding inlay/inserts into the blade. He died and took the secret with him. I screw up about 30-40% of what I start on by leaving unseen gaps between the layers, folding the steel too many times which "washes" the pattern out, or allowing the metal to form too much scale. With the pattern running perpendicular to the knife's edge creates a micro serrated edge which cuts/slices longer than a regular blade. Actually, pattern welded steel is easy, but it requires that you know just what grades of steel or their welding characteristics you are welding because dissimilar metals do not always want to stick to each other, and patience. I am not a blade smithy by any stretch of the imagination. I'm better at straightening bent tractor axles, making camp fire sets, meat forks, and such. I am not soliciting any orders, nor do I want any. I do this for my own self-gratification.