A couple of questions regarding sharpening stones

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Volkodlak

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Hello,

I would ask for some advice on choosing the better sharpening stone option, preferably from people who have had experience with Shapton and King/Sun Tiger waterstones. If you had to choose between Sun Tiger Coarse waterstone (240 grit) or Shapton Pro Coarse (120 or 220 grit) which one would you choose? I have read the Shapton 120 retains its flatnes much longer than Sun Tiger 240 while they both cut approx. at the same rate. I am interesred which of the two is more durable (Shapton Pro are roughly half an inch thick while Sun Tiger is almost two inches thick)? Would the quite thin Shapton outlast the 2 inch thick Sun Tiger? The prices are practicaly the same, Sun Tiger being slightly cheaper.
Another question is regarding either the Shapton Pro 1000 or 2000 grit waterstone. If you had the option choosing between Spydercom medium ceramic benchstone or Shapton Pro (either 1000 or 2000) which one would you choose? Which is the better option. Spyderco or Shapton ?(again the prices are practicaly the same in my situation).
 
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the ceramics are whats hot now, but you will get great results with the more traditional water stones provided you have the skill. the new fad stones reguardless of price will not make up for that. less water is needed with ceramics, and they seem to require less flatening. even the less exspensive water stones will do a great job if you do. depending on what type of steels you are sharpening will dictate what stones you will use, ceramics have a narrower range of steels compared to diamond, and water stones
 
For a coarse hone go diamond. I'd guess the Shapton 2000 is about the same finish as the Spyderco medium. I have the Shapton 1000 and it is coarser than the Spyderco Med. bench hone I also have. Truthfully I like both ceramic hones and the water stones. Plus for the ceramics don't need water or flattening, they are quick and clean to use. You will need to clean them every now and then. Plus for the water stone is they cut/grind fast and keep cutting fast. You do need to flatten them either before or after every use.
 
He who say, by fad ceramic are you refering to Shapton stones or Spyderco ceramic ? I have 6 inch Matsunaga Sun Tiger combination stone 250/1000 grit and I have good experience with it, I have used for axe, hatchet and cleaver sharpening and it does great job. The only downside is the 250 side has worn down to half its original thickness.

Db, I purchased DMT diasharp Coarse stone a few months ago and I am not that impressed by the quality of the product regarding the high reputation DMT has got (is this normal appearance :http://s212.photobucket.com/albums/cc96/Hyperborean_photos/?action=view&current=IMG_1097.jpg) I assume DMT benchstones with polka dot design are of greater quality afterall. Beside that I need coarser stone, something in 120-240 grit range.

I like the Spyderco medium stone too (I have that medium file) but regarding the relatively high price here in Europe would I be better off with Shapton Pro 2000? It's true that ceramic benchstone doesn't need to be flattened but it also relatively quickly loses it cutting "aggression". Which one is simply the better stone?



PS: Yuzuha I need your advice :)
 
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I don't know about the DMT coarse bench hone. I do have the DMT D8XXC whitch is 120 grit I think, and am very happy with it. I have read reports that the diamonds on some aren't or don't look even but everyone that has one seems to be real happy with it. I also don't have a Shapton 2000 hone, sorry. I have found that my Spyderco med bench stone hasn't really lost any cutting ability that I've noticed. I've had it for maybe 5 years or so. Just keep it clean. If you forced me to really choose between Shapton and Spyderco based on the Shapton stone I do have I'd have to pick Shapton. I think both, Shapton and Spyderco, are very high quality stones though. I'd say to choose between the 2 ask yourself do you want to put up with water and a little mess, keep flat, and always have the stone cutting fast and the same? Or use a hone dry with little to no mess and put up with a slower cutting stone that can be a pain to clean?
 
I can't make any comparisons you are asking about, but I sure do like my shapton pro 1000 and 2000. They cut really fast, and have cut every steel I've put on them, though some will load up the stone a little faster than others. I have DMT's but will still probably get a 120 or 220 shapton pro someday.
 
Db, thank you for your answer. Regarding the 8 inch DMT diasharp I have, I am not unhappy with its performance (also it's very good for 1000 grit and above waterstone flattening) but I have some concern regarding its durability and to a lesser exent with that surface.
 
Don't be concerned with the DMT. The surface needs to be 'broken-in' so to speak. It gets better with use. Used properly (i.e. light pressure) you will not wear it out.
 
Thanks kelbro. I hope you are right.

The question about Shapton Pro 2000 versus Spyderco Medium is now clear for me in favor of Shapton but I still don't know about Shapton 120 or 220 versus 240 Sun Tiger option? Has anyone had experience with Shapton coarse grits?
 
Broos said:
I can't make any comparisons you are asking about, but I sure do like my shapton pro 1000 and 2000. They cut really fast, and have cut every steel I've put on them, though some will load up the stone a little faster than others. I have DMT's but will still probably get a 120 or 220 shapton pro someday.
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Broos, can you tell me which steels loaded up Shapton pro 2000 from your experience?
 
Volkodlak said:
Broos, can you tell me which steels loaded up Shapton pro 2000 from your experience?
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I'm sorry but I can't remember specifically which were the worst beyond mostly the ones you would suspect - stainless. Even when it loads it up it still works well, it just needs to be unloaded with a small DMT duosharp plate or scotchbright pad every few minutes.
 
Thank you for reply Broos. Can you tell me one thing more? A couple of days ago, somewhere on the internet I read that Shapton stones "work together", that you have to use Shapton 1000 before 2000 and not a stone from some other manufacturer (Suehiro/Cerax 1000 grit stone for example). Can you confirm or reject this notion
 
Volkodlak said:
Thank you for reply Broos. Can you tell me one thing more? A couple of days ago, somewhere on the internet I read that Shapton stones "work together", that you have to use Shapton 1000 before 2000 and not a stone from some other manufacturer (Suehiro/Cerax 1000 grit stone for example). Can you confirm or reject this notion
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I can confirm that. I on a wim mixed my sharpening with DMT, Shapton, and Norton stones, it wasn't pretty. My knife melted, the stones exploded, and I died. :) :) Just having a little fun. I haven't had a problem useing other brands with Shaptons.
 
db said:
I can confirm that. I on a wim mixed my sharpening with DMT, Shapton, and Norton stones, it wasn't pretty. My knife melted, the stones exploded, and I died. :) :) Just having a little fun. I haven't had a problem useing other brands with Shaptons.
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No problems here either - except with my depleted uranium knives. ;) (still remember that thread)
 
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