A Damascus Custom Knife start to finish: Work In Progress by Eduardo Berardo JS

Eduardo Berardo

Eduardo Berardo JS
Joined
Jan 26, 2009
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331
Hi Guys.
As bladesmithing is essentially solitary, each bladesmith ends up developing some own methods.
Although we have learned from professionals with more experience, it is normal to adapt the way to do each step of the way we understand to be the easiest.
What will be posting here is my working methods.
I'll be regularly updating this post with all the steps from beginning to end of production process of a custom knife.
In no way pretend to present them as the most correct or the most efficient. It's just like I do!
All the best!

1. Forging

For this forging, used the alloy steel SAE 1095 and 15N20 steel.
This is an exceptional alloy in terms of cutting power and excellent results in terms of heat treatment because the tables of both steels have almost identical temperature ranges for each step.
I started my initial billet with 42 layers, 21 of each steel, interspersed with each other.
The bars of SAE 1095 steel measured 150 mm x 50 mm x 3 mm.
The bars of 15N20 steel measured 150 mm x 50 mm x 1.5 mm.
This resulted in exact proportion to 1/3 of 15N20 steel.


Ready to start the forging


Heating the billet and tinking of my life!


Adding borax (sodium tetraborate). It should be placed before the steel acquires color. Pictured is the second time I had added.


Billet to 1100 ° C (2012 ºF), ideal temperature welding, evidenced by boiling of liquid borax.


Compressing without excessive force and gradually, so that the layers do not slide each other and makes the molecular exchange that results in fusion.


Welding layers.


42 tons press power!


After welded and stretched, I discard the tip of the billet. This eliminates contamination of electric welding between steels layers.


On the other side.
 
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Yes, looking forward to this. Thanks for sharing Eduardo, I like the work you have been doing.
 
Continuation...

Measuring the total lenght of the billet.


Dividing the billet into five equal parts.


Don't forget to use ever protection equipment!!!


Cutting the billet.


Grinding the contact surfaces.


Clean surfaces.


Typically the resulting bars do not have all the same length. If you are forging in hydraulic press, place the smallest in the center and divide differences at the ends. The presses tend to further compress the central bar and consequently the more elongated than the outer. On the power hammer this effect is the opposite.


Welding, always use solder mask and gloves. Avoid using synthetic clothing. It's burn quickly with the slightest spark.


Remounted billet. 42 X 5 = 210 layers.


After welding I repeat the same process, but cutting the billet in 4 equal parts. 210 X 4 = 840 layers. This damascus is W pattern.
 
Ah, going back I can see that you drew it out sideways after the first weld.
I love W stuff! Keep 'em coming!
 
Threads like this remind me to continue to buy other guys knives and not attempt to do this myself. Because I know I would burn down my shop and self immolate the very first time I tried.
 
Laminating.


More...


Cutting the blades.


Billet result: 6 blades more fornitures.


Welding the blade in the iron bar. The forging with pattern dies print extremely high forces. I do not recommend in any way the use of tongs, because I consider dangerous.


Welded blade.


Soy oil. It prevents the adhesion of the blade. Never use mineral oil because the effect is opposite: it sticks! I learned this with Jerry Fisk. Thanks Jerry!


Heating the extremity will be press.


Printing the pattern.


To forge integrals, find it easier to weld pads to form the bolster. You can do it in blade forging, but prefer so. Abrading the contact surface on the blade.
 
Nice! I have a ladder pattern cleaver half done that I've been meaning to try forge welding bolsters onto, it'll help to see it done!
A good tip too, with the oil.
 
Threads like this remind me to continue to buy other guys knives and not attempt to do this myself. Because I know I would burn down my shop and self immolate the very first time I tried.

Sometimes I wish I took that advice 4 years ago. On the other hand, I love making knives now. :thumbup:
 
Six tablets for three knives.


Grinding the suface.


Welding the tablets on the position.


Adding borax.


Welding by hummer. It can be done in the press or power hammer, but I always got better results with the hammer.


Forging the tang.


Finishing by hummer.


Finished forging.


For this alloy, which is very hard and usually produces hardening (hardening resulting internal stresses from the forging) I suggest you do the annealing. The hardening creates problems especially when the stamp mark on the blade to be hard, usually gable. The ideal temperature range is 770º C (1420 °F). Remember that annealing produces grain growth and consequent problems of mechanical weakness and deficiency in edge retention. Make a normalization before quenching is required.


The knife at 770°C (1420 °F). The oven is an excellent tool to have fidelity in heat treatment. It can be made at the forge.
 
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