A Drive Through Northern Australian Savannah Country

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Aug 9, 2006
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This is a belated post – I did the trip towards the end of last year but until now, haven’t had the time to sort out pics and put some words together.
The drive was about 2000km over ten days through some remote country in Australia’s Northern Territory. These places are slowly beginning to open up with a newly declared national park and increasing mining activity. It is tropical country with a strong monsoon influence. Most of the roads are closed for months each year and of the country is flooded annually as rivers join up over vast flood plains. The dry season is just that. Water can be found but rain is non existent for most of the season. The dry season is technically winter but temperatures can still be hot, though the humidity drops and evenings are pleasant.

My trip began in Darwin and the first day was an uneventful drive south along the Stuart Highway to Mataranka. Towards dusk the wildlife on the road was pretty bad. Mostly Wallabies (a smaller version of the kangaroo) but I saw some horses, cattle and one buffalo. Night driving is not recommended as evidenced by the roadkill.

Mataranka was once a cattle town but is now mostly there for tourists. It is limestone country and there are vast underground water reserves and this water surfaces in places as crystal clear hot springs. It can get pretty overrun with visitors at peak times but fortunately was quiet that late in the year. This is one of the thermal pools:



The road east - this would be the last sealed surface for quite a while:


The first few hours of daylight were spent dodging wallabies. Feral horses were also quite common. It is hard to get action pics when you are driving. I just caught this straggler from a herd that crossed the road in front of me.



Roper Bar - this is the crossing of the Roper River and is the border to Aboriginal owned Arnhem Land. The river is beautiful - full of sporting fish and man eating crocs. I did not cross but turned south.





Road conditions get progressively rougher from here - plenty of corrugations and bulldust but nothing that would stop most well built vehicles.


This is tropical savannah country - looks tame enough but wander too far off that track and you can lose yourself quickly. It was hot and you can dry out fast and from the ground there are few landmarks for navigation. Until not that long ago the only people who ventured here were the indigenous inhabitants and pioneering stockmen who worked the place on horseback. On today's working cattle stations, the stock run wild for most of there lives and are now mostly mustered by helicopter before being sent for slaughter.

see Pt 2 for the rest
 
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That first pic is beautiful. I stayed for 3 or 4 days in Darwin back in '02 I believe. The Navy stopped the ship so we Marines unloaded to get loaded. I still want to return now that I'd be on my own schedule.
 
A Drive Through Northern Australian Savannah Country Pt2

Butterfly Springs – has a camping area and is one of the few waterholes where it is safe to swim. This is crocodile country and they are seriously dangerous critters.





Despite the time of year there was still water on the road in places though fortunately is was generally shallow with a firm base underneath.



This was home for ten nights. Even when travelling by vehicle I like to keep it simple.


Lost City – an amazing setting with incredible rock formations. There is a good walk that takes you to a plateaux where you can look back over the formations or out to a similar set of rock features miles away across a deep valley. I was the only person there on the day I visited and it was an eerie feeling walking through the formations for hours in complete isolation.





The view from the top of the plateaux with the Spyderco Military that accompanied me - this is a knife forum after all.



A Bustard, sometimes referred to as a plains turkey or bush turkey. They were once common across Australia but due to an unfortunate combination of good eating qualities and poor sense they have been hunted to extinction in most of the country. They are still relatively common in the Top End. The birds are protected but are legally hunted by aborigines.
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see the rest in Pt3
 
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A Drive Through Northern Australian Savannah Country Pt3

My destination for five days was Lorella Springs – a one million acre cattle property that is mostly wilderness. No shooting is allowed but otherwise it is relaxed and you pretty well have the run of the place for a modest fee. There is a small bar and a camping area at the homestead but there are no other facilities. The property goes right through to the coast of the Gulf of Carpentaria and has many creeks and waterholes, gorges, swamps, rocky ranges – you name it. A 4wd with good ground clearance is essential for any travel on the property. You could spend months in this place and only see a fraction of it.

The track into Lorella. The sign is no joke. I reckon I lost most of the fillings in my teeth and a kidney before I got there.


This is the 'pub' at the homestead


Most of the tracks on the property are not maintained and get can get quite rough in places. No action shots here as I was driving.




Wild donkeys are common in this part of the wold. I also saw pigs and buffaloes but didn't get the camera out in time.



After the isolation of Lorella, it was further south to Borroloola; a night out on the Macarthur River then the journey home on the luxury of a sealed road.


The last section of the trip was the least remote but brought about a sharp reminder of the hazards of travel in these places. A light truck had plunged into a dry creek bed after a blown tyre. The two occupants were injured – one was quite serious with spinal injuries, the other less so but in a lot of pain. I stayed with them for four hours until help arrived and it looked as though they were in for a much longer wait until medical evacuation could be arranged.
 
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Very cool pictures. I imagine not many people go up there in the hot season? Or would it be too wet to go in the winter?

Love the donkey picture (called Burros here in New Mexico). I assume they are not native, and probably the descendants of escaped / released domestic animals brought by Europeans?

Towards dusk the wildlife on the road was pretty bad. Mostly Wallabies (a smaller version of the kangaroo) but I saw some horses, cattle and one buffalo. Night driving is not recommended as evidenced by the roadkill.
I've been at man camps in Queensland where no one is allowed to leave the village after 3 pm due to the dangers of driving after dark, and there's no possible destination within four hours' distance. :)
 
Bob - the "winter" season is the dry season and is the best time to visit anywhere in the top end. Winter is a relative term of course as daytime temperatures are still 30 degrees centigrade plus.
 
Glad to hear it. :thumbup: I've been checking the historic average charts for June, and that appears to be a very time of the year in some areas of Australia. I'll be watching forecasts for specific locations as vacation approaches. I'm there a lot for work, but in June I'm taking Wife and Boy for their first trip overseas. :)

What sucks, this month or next, the heat of summer, I'm maybe getting boned into driving to near Mt Isa to pick up gear at a mine. It gets plenty warm out there this time of year. Forecast high for today is 38d C. That's a hundred degrees to us Yanks. And with the humidity... Ugh.

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Did you see any snakes on your motor tour?

My work so far has only been in NSW and QLD, but I'd like to see more of the country. Maybe you saw this recent topic: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1133646-Bushwalking-in-the-Blue-ees-NSW-Australia

Where's your home?
 
Mt Isa in summer is no fun.

Saw a few snakes but had no problems. Walk loudly and let them know you are coming and sleep off the ground are good ways to avoid getting bitten.
 
I enjoyed your photo journey. I use one of those tent-cot deals when I am camping alone and often in parks and national forest camp grounds which are typically somewhat primitive. They're kind of fun, but a bit bulky to transport even in a vehicle. The bad thing about them is they are somewhat stealable (and costly) and I feel you pretty much have to pack up before heading out for a day of exploring.
 
I enjoyed your photo journey. I use one of those tent-cot deals when I am camping alone and often in parks and national forest camp grounds which are typically somewhat primitive. They're kind of fun, but a bit bulky to transport even in a vehicle. The bad thing about them is they are somewhat stealable (and costly) and I feel you pretty much have to pack up before heading out for a day of exploring.

Hi 22 - its not a tent cot - just a stretcher with a mozzie dome sitting on top. Cheap and lightweight with less bulk than a tent or swag.
 
I like the shot of the low water crossing on the river (very scenic). At a glance, my first thought is I want to drive across just to do it... I have done that and have been almost washed downstream in the process. Now when I see such things, I see "danger".

I'll be breaking out my little tent cot in the next month or so in the Southeast US and begin my late winter and spring explorations. After a number of years and interacting with my wife, I have learned that she absolutely does not want to go along on such trips. She does not consider it fun. So, now my gear is set up for solo efforts mostly.
 
Thanks for the pics and story. Your country is beautiful. It's a shame every insect and animal over there can kill you!
 
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