A few edge pro questions.

CrimsonTideShooter

CrimsonTideShooter

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Oct 23, 2010
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I have a few questions that I hope someone can answer:

When using the 120 grit for reprofiling, I always form a burr - that's how I know I've taken off enough material. The book says don't do this, why? If I don't form a burr how do I know that I am reaching the edge?

How wet do the stones need to be? I usually put a few drops on them, rub it around, then I let a paper towel soak up the rest. Is that enough?

I relrofiled my leek to 15 degrees last night and took it all the way to 3000 grit polish but yet I think I still had a burr on the edge that wouldn't go away, how do I handle this?


The book says something about increasing the angle when using the polishing tapes. Do I need to do that? And if so, how much? If I sharpen at 18 degrees, then I polish at 18 degrees.

Last one: if I sharpen a knife on the edge pro and it needs a touch up, what grit do I start sharpening at? I know if it's really dull use the 220, but just for a touch up what do I use?


I know this is a lot of questions so I do appreciate your time. Thanks!
 
I dont have my book anymore, but I do form a burr. Not sure why it would be recommended not too.

I usually soak my stones in a small tub of water and occassionally wet them more with the squirt bottle filled with water and a dab of dish liquid.

I too have come across some blades that have a stubborn burr that doesnt want to go away. I use a method Murray Carter teaches. I use a small piece of wood and lightly stroke the blade on the edge of the wood. Usually that will eliminate the burr, or at least help enough that the polish tapes finish off the job.

I do not increase the angle when using the polish tapes but would be interested in hearing from those that do as to how well it works.

For touch up I usually use the 320 if it is fairly dull or the 600 if it is not too bad and progress from there.
 
probably because it's waaayy better forming a burr on a finer stone. when freehanding you have to form edge and make a burr on you fastest stone and polish refine on it to avoid errors. here the angle is guided, no matter what you do the edge angle is set. so shape your edge on the 120 but raise your burr only on your 320, i'm sure you'll have no burr issue once finished.

and I NEVER let my dmt XXC and XC touch the edge of my kitchen knives (high end japanese, very thin and hard) never. i did this once when i reprofiled a very used one, i had chipping like the knife never chipped until i sharpened out the damaged metal again.
 
pwet said:
probably because it's waaayy better forming a burr on a finer stone. when freehanding you have to form edge and make a burr on you fastest stone and polish refine on it to avoid errors. here the angle is guided, no matter what you do the edge angle is set. so shape your edge on the 120 but raise your burr only on your 320, i'm sure you'll have no burr issue once finished.

and I NEVER let my dmt XXC and XC touch the edge of my kitchen knives (high end japanese, very thin and hard) never. i did this once when i reprofiled a very used one, i had chipping like the knife never chipped until i sharpened out the damaged metal again.
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So if I don't form a burr on the 120 then how do I know I have reached the edge when reprofiling? It seems like forming a burr is the only way to know that the edge is set at the angle I want through the whole length of the blade.
 
I raise a SMALL burr up to 220 grit.

After that, I "eyeball" the edge with a 10X loupe.

I soak my stones in a pan of water for 5-10 minutes before starting to sharpen. After that, I squirt a bit of water on them every time the knife is turned over.

When switching to the tapes, I increase the angle about 2 degrees.

I try to not let my blades get so dull that I need to go below an 800 grit stone. Normally, I touch them up with tapes and/or strops. But when this doesn't seem to be working, I'll go back to the yellow 800 grit stone.

(Since the 800 grit stones are no longer available, if you don't already have one, try using either the 1K or ther 600, depending on how far the edge has deteriorated.)
 
The 120 can really rip through the metal and leave a nasty edge. In order to get rid of this ripped up edge, you'll need to spend more time with the next finer grit and in the process- remove more metal, use up more time, more stone.

Nothing wrong with it when you're just getting started if you ask me. But in the future, grinding the new bevel until it just reaches the edge and finishing the regrind with the 220 grit will be better in the end.

It's up to you though- it's not a huge deal and it becomes less of an issue as you become more proficient with the system. Good luck.
 
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