A few general questions

Joined
Feb 21, 2010
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Hello all, I have a few questions I haven't had answered by the FAQs, and some are more opinion questions :)

Here we go...
First, is a kukris length the length from tip to point, as if lain next to a ruler, or length as if the curve was flattened out? (stupid question, but I want to be sure)
Next, which kukri would be easier to conceal on an average person, a sirupati or an Ang Khola (both of the same size)?
Third, I'm purchasing a kukri for a buddy going to the fight in South America, which would make a better weapon, the M43 or WWII model kukri, and why is the M43 18" and $145 and the 16.5" WWII $145?

Thanks guys

Edit: More questions!
What makes a khukri a weapon, and what makes it a tool?
What is the price of a bonecrusher khukri?
And finally, is the khukri house sharpening tutorial the proper way to sharpen?

What makes a khukri a weapon-khukri? Forward balance? And what makes the more of a tool?
Finally, is the khukri house sharpening tutorial the proper way to sharpen khukri?
 
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Hello T and welcome to the HI forum. The section labeled "Construction and Terminology" in the FAQ on Himalayan Imports web site has all the measures listed. To answer your question regarding OAL (overall length), it is a straight line from tip to end of handle.

On the question of concealment, the Sirupati is a more slender khukuri so it won't need quite as much room approaching the point. At the same length, the Sirupati will be lighter in weight than the Ang Khola. There has been discussion over in the Archives relating to this (and probably here on the more recent Forum, too, I'm more familiar with the Archives at this point). Some had special sheaths made to replace the standard scabbard that comes with the khuk to cut down on bulk, allow for alternate carry methods and sometimes a different deployment method such as an open or partial open back. Personally I try to avoid the problems that concealed carry may bring and am fortunate to live in a state that has no size restrictions on open carry.

Regarding which model will make a better weapon, you're going to get supporters of both models that you mentioned. You're going to get recommendations for most of the models since they all have their supporters. Both the WWII and the M43 (along with the BAS) are modeled after khukuris that were carried by the Gorkha military units. If your friend is going to South America and may need a combination of tool and weapon then the WWII may be a better choice. The search function is now available to all members and I'm sure a search regarding this will bring up enough material to keep you reading for days. I would also recommend the Gelbu Special as a viable tool/weapon choice. It was Kami Sherpa's choice for Gorkha issue and he is an ex-Gorkha and Yangdu's father.

As to the pricing of the models, you would have to ask Yangdu. You can email her or call her. She may also respond here on the forum.

The general rule of thumb for starting is to pick a model that speaks or appeals to you the most and get it. The first usually leads to a second, etc, etc. Its called HIKV (Himalayan Imports Khukuri Virus)-an offshoot of KDS (Knife Deficiency Syndrome). Enjoy your journey into khukuris and if you get more questions you've found the right place to get answers.

Rick
 
Rick pretty much summed it up, so i'll answer the question he omitted.


On the KH site they show you how to steel the blade using the chakmak, this will work while in the field. In one section they tell you that using a stone is preferred.
Here at H.I. we use several methods of sharpening, from using the chakmak to using a belt sander. The usually accepted method here is by using mousepad and sandpaper. Some sharpening tip threads can be found in the lower links in the H.I. Link Library sticky. More tips can be found by using the search function. There is a wealth of info here going back almost 20 years if you include the archives.
 
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T-random, what makes a khukuri a weapon or a tool lies in the use you put it to. If you are digging a hole, clearing a trail, building a shelter, chopping/splitting wood for a fire or chopping food then it is a tool. I like to think of them as a multipurpose/survival tool that can be called upon for defense purposes if needed.

I can't remember the price of the Bonecutter off the top of my head. Of course it will vary depending on size. Once again the search function will bring up listings of Bonecutters on past DOTD (Deal of the Day-where Yangdu posts blems and specials that are available to forum members that are quick enough to send the first email to her for the item they want) and you can get an idea of prices. You can also address this question to Yangdu personally and get the standard price.

Karda's excellently organized Link Library has sharpening articles to get lots of good information. Yvsa's continuing input on this subject I have found to be very helpful. Utilizing the Link Library and the search function will allow you to access a wealth of pictures and information. But don't let it overwhelm you. Uncle Bill used to say "Take your time" to all the new members that had questions.

Welcome aboard.
 
Bonecutter prices depend on size and kami. For instance, if you are able to find a Bonecutter from Sgt Khadka, they seem to command a bit more coin that those of other kamis because he is supposed to be known for this particular blade. Of course that would be the secondary market as Sgt K doesn't pop up much of at all any more through regular channels. He never really was an employee of HI anyway.

Otherwise, I think the rest of the questions are well answered. I would need to know more about the "Fight in South America" your buddy is going to join before I could actually give any advice there. What sort of group will he be with and where in SA will he be exactly?? I would think one of the blades that have seen service, like the M43 and the WWII would be more along the lines of an all around sort of Khukuri but personally I am quite fond of the Uncle Bill Especiale's for all around usage. They chop with the best of them and they are a bit pointier than the usual khukuri so you has more stabbing as well as slashing ability should it come to a fight. Unfortunately, those don't pop up much of late either but with all the new kamis, you never know what will be coming out of Nepal in the coming days...
 
Hiya stickfred,

The time and effort in your detailed and informative replies to questions as you have been doing is much appreciated.

Reading the archives is a source of information that provides advice and insight in what makes HI so special in regards its products and the concern that produces them while conveying the spirit and ethos of Uncle Bill and so many of the oldies no longer with us.

Thank you.
 
Next, which kukri would be easier to conceal on an average person, a sirupati or an Ang Khola (both of the same size)?

Bill Martino in the HI web site's Khukuri FAQ (Khukuri Training and Techniques):

I have several customers who carry a khukuri concealed for defensive purposes. Every man has made or had made a shoulder rig which allows him to carry the knife under his arm, under a jacket. The usual khukuri of choice for this purpose is a 12 inch Sirupati.

I own a 12.5 inch 11 oz. Bura Snake (sarpa) khukuri, the lower knife in this photo:

6-09-08%20005.jpg


It has a 7.5 inch blade and a 5 inch handle. It fits my hand better than my 12 inch Sirupati with its 4 inch handle.

An Ang Khola is a dandy tool. When I pick one up, it says "let's chop something!" Of course that could be me: I belong to the wood chopping school of martial arts.
 
WW2 model is a tool which can be used as a weapon.

Sirupati is a weapon which can be used as a tool.

M43 is equally tool and weapon.


That's how I see it.
 
b.c., thanks for the good thought and words. It feels kinda weird posting sometimes 'cause I'm reading the Archives and have a feeling for the Forum but its mostly related to the past and I have only a slight feel as to the present Forum, though I believe I'm slowly learning. There is tons of good information that I've read from the Archives (Woodchukitis has recently come up) and if I can relay some of that information or direct someone to that cache of learning then I'm happy to do so. The information that is on the Forum is here to benefit all and I for one greatly appreciate and admire the time and effort of all who have contributed. I know that all those past posters aren't with us but I admit to an almost giddy happiness when I see one of the long time members posting.

Uncle Bill always said "Great forumites make a great forum" and it continues to this day.:thumbup:
 
Welcome aboard, T-random: I started out more than a year ago, with a post almost exactly like this! Now, I own three khukuris, two HI knives, and have infected both my parents with HIKV!
 
Ok - this should answer all your questions, but feel free to ask more if it doesn't!

Length:
When you see the length of a kukri posted, it is overall, from butcap to the tip - in a straight line. D in this picture:
specs__amp__terms.jpg


In regards to your friend, I would definitely suggest a 15" or 16.5" depending on his height and size. It's a good compromise on length and portability - 18" tends to get somewhat cumbersome even when strapped to a pack and is much more suitable for tool usage than weapon. Remember that the kukris used by Gurkhas tend to be 12" or 15" and I'm sure they'd know better than anyone what a practical kukri length is.

AK vs. Sirupati:
The sirupati would be easier to conceal because it tends to be less bulky. It is also more neutral in balance, less thick, and with a thinner bevel. An AK is built to be a chopping tool whereas a sirupati is much more of a weapon.

Concealability:
A good concealable size is 13" and below - above that is simply too bulky, especially if you use the factory sheath. I don't personally CC a kukri and don't intend to - heck, I don't even carry it on my person when hiking or camping; it generally goes on my pack where it's still accessible but less likely to get in the way. That all said, I have toyed around with different on-person carry methods just for kicks. I tried putting my 13" AK on a shoulder strap and hanging underneath my armpit like the guy from Expedition Africa (pic below). It's surprisingly comfortable, easy to access and with a jacket over top, it is fairly difficult to tell it's there.

expedition-africa3_event_main.jpg


Weapon vs. tool:
Forward balance actually makes a kukri more of a tool - it allow the blade to hit harder, but it makes it much more difficult to recover from the strike to make another and will also tire you out much faster. Think of swinging an ax vs. swinging a machete - it's like that.

If you're wanting a kukri for a weapon, you're going to want one that is lower weight, more neutrally balanced, with a thinner spine, and a fairly steep bevel. This combination makes it more maneuverable and apt for draw cutting, while still having the weight of a khukri behind said cuts. An AK for example, would not make a great weapon - it is stout and heavy for it's size, is quite forward balanced, has a thick bevel meant more for chopping than cutting, and takes a good deal of effort to move around.

Good choices for a weapon kukri would be a kobra or sirupati. If you want something that's fairly weaponish, but still has good tool capabilities, the BAS, WWII and M43 are good choices. Remember that even khukris of the same model will have discrepancies depending on the kami who made them. When you do decide on a model, itt would be best to ask Aunty for one with a spine closer to 3/8" than 1/2" and with a steeper bevel.

Sharpening:
You'll want to convex your khukri using either a belt sander or the mousepad/sandpaper method. I've actually been meaning to add to my INFO thread on the subject - Specifically a step-by-step pictorial on how to sharpen a khukri. Sadly, between work, school and friends, I've been very swamped for time :( I'll be getting to it soon though and will make it very detailed and fool proof for those who want to give it a go themselves.

For now, here's a picture of the results of the method. This is an 18" m43 with a ~7/16" spine. Fairly thick yet still shaving sharp:
P1020334.jpg
 
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