A few leatherworking (sheathmaking) questions

Khukuri Monster

Khukuri Monster

Joined
Aug 4, 2004
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373
Is it normal to break 2 or 3 needles in the course of stitching a small sheath, or am I just clumsy?

If I cut the thread I'm using for stitching too short, and find out when I'm 75% done, is there some way I can use to tie on an extension to the thread in order to finish the sheath?

I really don't want to pull out all those stitches and start over.
 
2 or 3 isn't unusual in my experience. I've broken at least that many while making a sheath before. Maybe we're both clumsy. :)
 
I drill the holes with a press, but I don't use a drill bit, rather a really small nail, comparable to a 1/16th diam. drill bit. So, the holes are pretty small, I have to use pliers to pull the needles through.

I was using a saddle stitch. I'll try your method of starting over... as soon as I get some new needles. I just broke my last one.
 
Have you tried rubbing your needles on a block of beeswax or paraffin before each stitch?
 
for me, depends on the sheath sometimes. The last sheath I made - I had to pull the needle through with pliers sometimes. I do saddle stitching.

If you break the cord (or run out) - just back it up an inch or so, splice in a new one with a good knot and keep going. There are tricks to hide the knot. If you're good, you can hide it "in the hole". Otherwise, use a bone folder to go over your stitches after you're done - that will press them down flat/straight and help hide the knot (which should be clipped very close/clean).

I'm not a fan of the waxed needle - makes it harder for me to grab.

I used to break needles all the time. So I bought bigger needles instead. Mine are about 2.5" long and quite thick (hence the pliers). And I drill the holes with a 1/16" or 3/64" drill bit (usually 1/16").

Are you gouging a stitch line? That will help with the stitching (decreases the thickness some).
 
Yes, I'm using a gouger to mark the line. I use 8-9 oz. leather so with 3 layers of that, I'm sewing though over 3/8th inch.

I just ordered a hundred needles and a thousand yards of 5-cord unwaxed linen thread... figure that ought to last me a while. I also got some sort of tool to open up the holes a little, recommended by the salesman I was talking to. It was called a scratch awl.
 
The Art Of Hand Sewing Leather Book #61944-00
Al Stohlman introduces you to a variety of stitching techniques and provides you with valuable information on the tools and materials you'll need to get started. 72 pages.

from tandy. it will have everything you need in it, including splicing while saddlestitching, and is less than $13. grooving/gouging a channel is a good idea. it sinks the stitches so they don't abrade as much. the tools you need are very cheap, and it sounds like you have most of them already. use an awl to punch the holes as you sew (not all of them before you start) after you have used the wheel to mark the stitch locations. the wheel is also used to seat the stitching after it is done -- you run over the completed work with the wheel. w/the awl, waxed thread and some smooth jawed pliers to help you pull thru, you shouldn't break many needles. but yes, they do break. am assuming you have the right size blunt needle for such thickness. when using the awl, you turn the blade so the the diamond hole that will be made is slanted, not perpendicular to the edge. but get the book; it's a quick easy read and very helpful. there is a 'stitching palm' available which helps you push the needle thru, but i have never used.
ab
 
Thanks for the advice. I ordered that book along with my needles, thread, and awl. I already have one of those stitch markers and it is pretty nice.

Regarding the drill bit vs. nail issue, I had another knifemaker tell me that using a bit was not a good idea because it removed material around the hole, where an awl doesn't remove any leather, just pushes it aside. He said this lets the hole close more tightly around the stitch. Also, if you make a mistake using the drill bit, it's hard to cover up.

This is one person's opinion and I'm sure it's possible to make good looking sheathes either way. I figured using a nail would be compromise between using a drill bit and using an awl, since it also doesn't remove material. I want to try using the stitching awl too.

I found this useful tutorial online: http://www.knifenetwork.com/workshop/tut_wrtc_burrows.shtml
 
What Dan said. ;) The stitch groover is a good investment. My most valuable sheath making tool is the trash can, though. There are screw-ups that cannot be redeemed.
I've never broken a needle yet. Luck or skill...? I use a 3/32" drill bit and don't make the holes too close together. You got the good thread, just wax it before use. I once made a khukri sheath so thick that it took 18 feet of thread. :mad: The Stohlman stitching book is very good - all his books are. Just try to make every sheath a little better than the one before, and you'll do fine.
The gouged out stitch line has another advantage. The stitches are below the surface of the leather a less liable to wear with use. I also dampen the leather before stitching. Seems to make for a tighter job.
 
I've only broken one needle so far but I'm working with 6 oz. and only two thicknesses of it, and I groove, use an overstitcher, and drill the holes. (I gave up on awls after I broke my first few.) I suspect that I'll be breaking a lot more of them when I move on to heavier leather.

My trick to not running out of thread? I measure how much I need and add 50%. I still manage to screw it up sometimes. Then I try to work the knots down into the holes like Dan mentioned, with more or less success.

The key is to hang out with people that don't work leather; that way, even my barely usable disasters get favorable reviews. :)
 
I haven't broken a needle in years. Just because the picture of the proper way to do a saddle stitch shows both needles in the hole at the same time it's not always possible. I pull one needle through and then pull the thread up close against the back edge and then insert and pull through the other needle. I use the blunted needles from Tandy because I used to get them in craft kits and saved them.

When I see I'm gonna run out of thread I do a couple or four back stitches depending on the project and how thick the leather is. Then I start again one hole back from where the stitch ends and continue on. On a really large piece you may have a couple, maybe three areas of double and triple stitched areas. Obviously on a nice or presentation piece you have to start with enough and bite the bullet and just pull the thread.
Be sure and wax it or it's liable to fray before you're finished and frayed stitching looks like hell. I'd rather have two or three doubles stitched areas than I had frayed thread.
 
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