A few modding question

Joined
Jul 12, 2008
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Okay, so I just really love the look of a knife customised by the owner, it gives it a unique or custom feel. And I was thinking about doing some different mods on some of my knives, and I was wondering if you guys could help me with some questions.

1) Can the oxi-clean method of darkening (info here: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367495 ) be used on any steel other than titanium?

2) Can I force a patina on a stainless blade? And is there any extra steps that I would have to do? Can I just do it with household items?

3) What do you use to reprofile blades, I was thinking bench grinder, but that would mess with the heat treatment, would you use a sander?

4) Can someone link me to a good page, a video would be super awesome, on how to do a "toxic" finish on a blade like this http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=691400 or something similar, it doesnt have to be the "toxic" look, just some cool looking pattern/design that you can do to a blade (I recall a "fishbone" grind somewhere, Im talking about stuff like that)

Thanks in advance for the answers, I guess I should have properly introduced myself first, I am mostly on the balisong part of bladeforums. Thanks again,
-Matt
 
Forcing a patina on stainless is not going to happen and for the grinding part look at the DMT XXC, its like a bench grinder without the power.
 
I'd imagine that the Oxi-Clean bath would do something to just about any steel (Titanium is not a steel though) but I'm not sure it would be a desirable finish.

Stainless steels can be get a force patina to some extent, but it won't be what other non stainless's achieve. Not much household will do a patina.

I wouldn't use power tools to touch a knife if you didn't have experience.


Ferric Chloride is a good etchant of steel and will give you a dark finish on just about any steel. Including stainless.

That "toxic" finish was produced by the owner physically grinding up the blade with his dremel then etching it with Ferric Chloride and a bit of sanding to lighten the high points.
 
Awesome, thanks guys. I picked up some oxi-clean last night and Ill tell you the results when I'm done. You have been a real help,
-Matt
 
Experimenting with different etching techniques to create "artwork" on blades, I have concluded that electrical etching works best on stainless. Cover the entire blade with something to protect the steel (bees wax, asphalt tar, lipstick, chapstick, axle grease, scotch tape...I have used them all). Using a scribe, needle, toothpick, etc. etch your design through the protective cover to the steel. Mix up salt and vinegar. Put the blade in the vinegar/salt mix. Attach positive terminal from 12 volt source to the blade. Attach negative to a piece of junk stainless. Dip the junk steel into the vinegar but do not touch the blade. Junk steel will bubble. Avoid fumes. After about 90 seconds or so stop the process. Clean the wax off the blade...your design should remain intact. Experiment with junk first. Exercise common sense and safety when dealing with electrical current and fumes.
 
To force patina on stainless steel is very possible and very easy.i had amazing results on a boker 545 stainless hunter using a $5 bottle of tarn-x silver and jewelery cleaner.i even cut shapes out of masking tape and stuck them on the blade to slightly resemble a damascus look.i then wrapped the blade in a sheet of paper towel and then soaked it with the tarn-x.check it every few hours until you recieve the desired results.hope this helps.
 
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