A few more Kuhkuri questions before I order one....

H

HighlanderNorth

Joined
Jun 23, 2012
Messages
43
1. First of all, if I were to buy one of the "specials" listed on this forum every few days, how long will shipping take to Delaware?

2. If I were to buy one out of the HI catalog, how long does shipping take to Delaware?

3.. Next: I keep seeing people mention the "Bonecutter"..but I dont see any Kuhkuri on the HI website called a Bonecutter, what is a Bonecutter? Is there a picture of one that I'm missing?

4. Next: I decided to buy 2 Kuhkuris to start out with. For the work that will be more likely to damage the knife, I ordered an Ontario Kukri, and now I want to order an HI Kuhkuri(notice when I mentioned the Ontario I spelled it Kukri, and when I mention the HI, I spell it Kuhkuri?). I plan on using the HI model for work that is less likely to damage it. For instance, If I'm chopping something and there are rocks nearby and I worry that I might hit a rock with the blade, I'll use the Ontario. But if I'm just chopping limbs from a tree, then I'll have no problem using the HI Kuhkuri.

But anyway^, I still worry about possibly breaking the wooden(or bone) handle, so my question is: What can I do to the handle to help strengthen it without damaging it or tarnishing its beauty? I dont want to just wrap electrical tape around the handle, but I'm sure there must be something else I can do to protect the handle. I read one post from a guy who said he has cracked or broken 2 of the handles. I dont want to do that...

5. Are the Kuhkuris with the riveted handles much less likely to break or come loose than the non-riveted models?

6. Lastly, when reading the info on the HI site, versus the info on the HI store, the CAK is listed at 3/8"+ on one site, and 1/2" on another. Is one knife of the same model and size likely to be thicker than another? I would think for my purposes that 3/8 would be fine. I think that a 16-17" bladed knife thats 1/2" thick would be significantly heavier.

To be clear about one thing, I have watched videos of people chopping logs that are 4-9" in diameter. If I need to cut a log that large, thats why I bought a $500 Husqvarna chainsaw! I WILL NOT be chopping anything with my Kuhkuri or my Kukri(the Ontario) that is larger diameter than 2-3" tops....


Also: Has anyone watched this youtube video about a guy using an HI Kuhkuri to cook with? Here it is::thumbup:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DHGlhFJH0g
 
1. In my experience, 2 days, 3 if the post office decide to get lazy.
2. Same as 1.
3. They show up in the deal of the day sometimes. There are videos of them on Youtube.
4. Khukuri usually. If you're worried about cracked handles, get a chiruwa model like a CAK or ASTK since they're easier to repair.
5. Not particularly, but the chiruwa handles are easier to repair.
6. HI products are hand forged, and there can be wide variations of the actual specs of each model. Email Yangdu to see what is in stock, and ask for exactly what you want.
 
HighlanderNorth,

Welcome to the forum. Its good to see people asking so many questions before their purchase. Here are some things that stick out from reading your post above.

!. The Ontario Kukri is not really a kukri at all, it is a machete that has the blade shape of a kukri. It is meant for clearing brush and light wood chopping. They are overbuilt and very tough and from the videos you see on youtube they can handle lots of punishment. But you have to keep in mind that it is not a kukri and should not be used for the heavier tasks, or at least be aware they can fail and cause you serious harm.

2. The spelling is really all universal at this point and you rarely see anyone on this forum use the more formal Khukuri. As a matter of fact that spelling is normally used when describing the Khukuri Houses that sell tourist models on the internet. Most people here just use the kukri spelling.

3. The Bonecutter was originally made by a Kami that worked on his own but did a collaboration with HI. The model became so popular that it is thought of as an HI model but you won't see it on the HI website. It is one of the best of the best from any kukri dealer around.

4. Shipping:
a. If you buy a special DOTD it will be in the mail that day or at the latest the next day. You should have it in 3 days no matter what.
b. If you order a regular model its the same "if" she has it in stock in Nevada. She will get it right out and again you will have it in a matter of days.
c. If you order model that is not in stock or you ask for a special order, meaning a modified blade, then its a coin toss as to how long it will be. They are having troubles in Nepal with electric outages and civil unrest that make it all unpredictable. We are also in the festival season and that shuts things down even in the best of times.

5. Handles. Most hard working village models are not full tang with rivets, they are a partial or rat tail tang. They have been working for hundreds of years so you should not have a problem with it. And to be honest, few models with a full tang feel as balanced as the ones with the partial or rat tang. The full tangs also generate more vibration on the hand. So I would't get all wrapped up on this point. The only benifit of the full tang is that it would be easier for the average westerner to get one of these fixed if you happen to break one.

6. Actual sizes are unpredictable and you will usually not see sizes that are listed on the site. The ones you see now are a bit bigger.

Good luck!
 
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Rats. I been spelling it Khukuri because I thought that was right. Kukri it is from here on out. Thanks!
 
The Ontario, Kabar, and Cold Steel versions are usually referred to as KLO's or Kukri Like Objects.
 
I wouldn't worry a bit about breaking a khuk handle be it chiruwa or peened. There is a LOT of steel in the tang of a khuk. Furthermore, unless it has a decorative "head" or some other ornate pommel, most all HI khuks with hidden tangs are peened over with a keeper after being set in the horn/wood with some really tenacious stuff called "laha". Think of it as Mother Nature's JB Weld.

While handle failures can and do happen, they are pretty dang rare. I've had over 100 HI products pass through my hands, and I have never had a handle failure of any kind. Is the chiruwa handle more robust? Eh, I'm not that convinced. I do concur that it would be easier to repair in the field, but I have never had a handle bust on me, so I can't vouch 100% for that. Besides, when I go camping, I always bring a roll of duct tape with me. If by some weird chance I shatter a handle, several wraps of that ol' gray will get me through my trip:p
 
HoosierQ said:
Rats. I been spelling it Khukuri because I thought that was right. Kukri it is from here on out. Thanks!
Click to expand...

Kukri is the anglicised version. The correct spelling and pronunciation is Khukuri (khoo-Khoo-dee)
Even Khoo-Khoo-ree is angilcised pronunciation.

Many people tend to think that the Chiruwa handle is easier to replace. I can assure you that it's far easier for me to replace a normal non pinned full handle than it is to replace the chiruwa. Especially considering having to make the handle itself. There is much more work involved in properly fitting the handle on a Chiruwa.
 
Highlander, most of the khuks sold by HI have horn, not bone. Horn is tough and attractive. Occasional teratment with Hooflex or mineral oil keeps it hydrated and it should last for many, many years. I have several horn handled WWII era khuks, as well as wooden handled versions. They could be used today and I assure you they were NOT taken care of during the past 60+ years!

Steve, you missed a great opportunity to show off your most excellent thread on re-handling a hidden tang khuk without power tools. That thread is awesome. Take care.
 
Get an M43......toss the KLO it will never perform like a real kuk. Besides after a decade plus of service, and the building of 2 trappers cabins, plus dozens of other primitive shelters and much much more. My M43 is still going strong.
 
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