- Joined
- Feb 4, 1999
- Messages
- 5,786
Okay...sorry if this has been covered, but I am a slow learner sometimes!
Anyway, the questions:
1) I want the friction folder I am building to have an adjustable pivot tension. The only folders I own that are able to be taken apart are a REKAT Pioneer and Carnivore. Anyway, here's what the pivot seems to involve, although Neil Blackwood makes me believe I am missing something, so hel pme out if I am... The REKAT's have a hole drilled into the tang on the blade. Let's say it's 3/16" diameter, although I haven't measured it. In this hole a hollow, threaded tube is placed. This tube has a length that is LESS than the overall thickness of the folder itself (including scales, liners, pivot washer, and the blade itself) and into each end is threaded an allen-head screw. By tightening and loosening these screws (which cause the liners to exert more or less pressure on the washers and increase or decrease pressure on the tang), the tension on the blade is altered. Is this all there is to it? In other words, to make the adjustable pivot, I essentially need a hole in the tang, a threaded tube of the same outer diameter, and two screws that match the inner threads on the tube (plus countersinks and all that if I want to make it look nice). That's all it looks like I need looking at REKAT's stuff, but am I missing something???
2) I was originally planning to have an open back sort of design, where I would get some stainless rod, drill it, and tap it for some tiny screws I have (thanks, Maddog). These are the same 2-56 screws that REKAT also uses. Anyway, it looks like the precision needed for this job may exceed the tools I have at my disposal, so I was thinking of two alternatives. One is using a metal spacer that I drill and tap (may be easier to do on this material than on a rod), or the other idea is to use a material like wood or possibly black paper micarta. I assume neither is really the best thing to tap threads into for screws, so I guess I would have to use pins to hold the scales on in this case. Rather than using peening, I would epoxy and pin like I do on fixed blades. Is this a good idea, or does it have drawbacks? Of the three methods I mentioned, which would be the best one to use?
Thanks in advance...
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My Knife & Sheath Pages:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/frames.html
Palmer College of Chiropractic
Sheath Makers Referral Directory
agocs_s@dd.palmer.edu
Madpoet (Mel Sorg, Jr.) Tribute page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/madpoet/main.html
Anyway, the questions:
1) I want the friction folder I am building to have an adjustable pivot tension. The only folders I own that are able to be taken apart are a REKAT Pioneer and Carnivore. Anyway, here's what the pivot seems to involve, although Neil Blackwood makes me believe I am missing something, so hel pme out if I am... The REKAT's have a hole drilled into the tang on the blade. Let's say it's 3/16" diameter, although I haven't measured it. In this hole a hollow, threaded tube is placed. This tube has a length that is LESS than the overall thickness of the folder itself (including scales, liners, pivot washer, and the blade itself) and into each end is threaded an allen-head screw. By tightening and loosening these screws (which cause the liners to exert more or less pressure on the washers and increase or decrease pressure on the tang), the tension on the blade is altered. Is this all there is to it? In other words, to make the adjustable pivot, I essentially need a hole in the tang, a threaded tube of the same outer diameter, and two screws that match the inner threads on the tube (plus countersinks and all that if I want to make it look nice). That's all it looks like I need looking at REKAT's stuff, but am I missing something???
2) I was originally planning to have an open back sort of design, where I would get some stainless rod, drill it, and tap it for some tiny screws I have (thanks, Maddog). These are the same 2-56 screws that REKAT also uses. Anyway, it looks like the precision needed for this job may exceed the tools I have at my disposal, so I was thinking of two alternatives. One is using a metal spacer that I drill and tap (may be easier to do on this material than on a rod), or the other idea is to use a material like wood or possibly black paper micarta. I assume neither is really the best thing to tap threads into for screws, so I guess I would have to use pins to hold the scales on in this case. Rather than using peening, I would epoxy and pin like I do on fixed blades. Is this a good idea, or does it have drawbacks? Of the three methods I mentioned, which would be the best one to use?
Thanks in advance...
------------------
My Knife & Sheath Pages:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/frames.html
Palmer College of Chiropractic
Sheath Makers Referral Directory
agocs_s@dd.palmer.edu
Madpoet (Mel Sorg, Jr.) Tribute page:
http://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/madpoet/main.html