A few specific questions about paring knives

B

Brian.Evans

Registered Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
3,267
Upon the advice of Don Hanson III, I'm going to make a bunch of paring knives before I do make anything else. I'm envisioning a 3" blade paring and a 4 1/2-5" kitchen utility, basically the same knife with a slightly longer blade. I'm looking at making about 20-30 of these blades.

I guess I need a bit of direction. I'd like these to be as well made as I can. I'm going to be using 1/16" 1095 stock from Aldo. I have toyed with several thoughts in my head, and I'll just list them, because that is how my brain seems to work.

1. I'd really like to work on my grind lines and plunges, but I'm not sure if proper paring knives should have them? I'm torn I guess. Should they be ground straight through, like a Japanese blade? I've seen both ways.

2. I'm planning on profiling, drilling for pins, and then drilling lightening holes before HT. Not grinding bevels before HT seems like a no brainer on 1/16" oil hardening steel.

3. Stuck on scale material. I'm planning on making several of these to practice my grinding, so I'd like to vary the scale material within a certain range. Any suggestions? I'm thinking 416 SS pins, just because it seems nickel silver is verboten around food according to some foodie forums, but ??? Anyway, back to handle material. I'm assuming an oily wood like cocobolo would work, but I'd like to stick with synthetics this round. Something like all linen or paper micartas in different colors.

4. I'm really going to shoot for clean on these. Clean belt finishes, clean handles, nice pins, etc.

I really like this knife:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1062145-Ironwood-Paring-Knife

And of course this one:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1062057-Black-G10-Paring-Knife-Davison-SOLD

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1026772-Green-Micarta-Paring-Knife



Ok, I think that's it. I'm pretty tired, so if anything up there sounds weird, I'm blaming it on that. I'll fix it in the morning.
 
I think the paring would have to have a plunge of some sort, or else the grind would be too low and thick (at least for what I'm envisioning). Also, there's the decision to make if you want a closed heel or open; usually kitchen knives will have an open heel for sharpenability, but some people like having leverage really close to where their fingers are on the handle (without risk of accidentally nicking one's self).

G10 would be a really good material for a paring knife. I'm just tired of working with micarta, so I'm sour about that...
 
Don, I was taking about open heel vs closed heel. That's what I meant regarding the plunge lines.
 
In the past I made and sold several. Blades were about 3" and yes I liked to use the micartas. I did use the fiber type of liner material which later caused nothing but trouble. I found for the paring knives a sheep foot shaped front was very popular. I ground them all bottom to top both sides out of ATS-34. Frank
 
Your last link is what I would suggest you try for as starters. The plunge can be very slight, as the blade should only be from .060" stock. 3" is the max length, and 2.5" is not bad. Think simple...it is just a utility tool.

Do the blade as a FFG (full flat grind), and add a 10-15° microbevel in the final sharpening. I don't put a defined plunge on, but just sweep the grind in as a curved transition from tang to blade. Others put a defined plunge on. In a paring knife it won't be particularly deep or distinct anyway.
The tip can be anything from a simple spear point style to a slight drop point. Some folks like them with no point at all, as in Frank's sheep's foot blades.
Handles should be simple and comfortable...and not large. Black canvas Micarta is a great choice. I like to use two small diameter Corby bolts for paring knives.
I can't see any good reason to drill extra holes in the tang to lighten it.
 
Well, I can't say I 100% agree with the idea based on what you said you want to improve on.

Since a paring knife is small, simple, and gets used nearly every day in the kitchen--- there are a lot of positives there for learning. BUT... most folks figure a paring knife should be 1/16" thick at most... IMHO, that is awfully thin stock to try to learn/improve with.

Especially since you mentioned working on plunges. I've been making knives for awhile now, and I still think nailing the plunges on 1/16" stock is a PITA. It certainly can be done! But you have very little material to work with, and even when you do nail them, it's hard to see.

IMHO, A small, simple utility knife--- something with a 2-1/2" - 3" blade made from 1/8" stock would be a better choice for the things you are wanting to practice.
 
Well, I can't say I 100% agree with the idea based on what you said you want to improve on.

Since a paring knife is small, simple, and gets used nearly every day in the kitchen--- there are a lot of positives there for learning. BUT... most folks figure a paring knife should be 1/16" thick at most... IMHO, that is awfully thin stock to try to learn/improve with.

Especially since you mentioned working on plunges. I've been making knives for awhile now, and I still think nailing the plunges on 1/16" stock is a PITA. It certainly can be done! But you have very little material to work with, and even when you do nail them, it's hard to see.

IMHO, A small, simple utility knife--- something with a 2-1/2" - 3" blade made from 1/8" stock would be a better choice for the things you are wanting to practice.
 
Frank Niro said:
In the past I made and sold several. Blades were about 3" and yes I liked to use the micartas. I did use the fiber type of liner material which later caused nothing but trouble. I found for the paring knives a sheep foot shaped front was very popular. I ground them all bottom to top both sides out of ATS-34. Frank
Click to expand...


Hi Frank, just wondering how the liner material gave you trouble. Did it absorb moisture if left soaking?

Medicevans, I'm not sure, but I think your stock may not be thick enough for a taller open heel blade like the first knife.

I skeletonize the heck out of full tangs, not for weight, but for better adhesion of the scales.

I'm not sure why people would be afraid of nickle steel. There seems to be plenty of nice silverware made from it. If you are peening the pins, I don't think stainless works as well for that.

I'd be worried about slicing an artery before I'd worry about the pins killing me. Seems like things get completely blown out of proportion when speaking of culinary knives.
 
NickWheeler said:
Well, I can't say I 100% agree with the idea based on what you said you want to improve on.

Since a paring knife is small, simple, and gets used nearly every day in the kitchen--- there are a lot of positives there for learning. BUT... most folks figure a paring knife should be 1/16" thick at most... IMHO, that is awfully thin stock to try to learn/improve with.

Especially since you mentioned working on plunges. I've been making knives for awhile now, and I still think nailing the plunges on 1/16" stock is a PITA. It certainly can be done! But you have very little material to work with, and even when you do nail them, it's hard to see.

IMHO, A small, simple utility knife--- something with a 2-1/2" - 3" blade made from 1/8" stock would be a better choice for the things you are wanting to practice.
Click to expand...



I was thinking the exact same thing but just didn't know how to word it. Thicker stock would be a much better platform for practicing plunges. 1/16" would be just about the hardest to practice on. One thing is for sure though, once you get to where you can nail the plunges on 1/16" stock every time, thicker stock will be a breeze.
 
I agree with the rest about 1/16" stock being a pain to start on. But if you're bent on it, then go for it.
As for handle material, you might want to look into dymondwood. A lot of people here hate it, but it's great for practice because it's real inexpensive and fairly easy to work (not as easy as real wood). I even think it looks nice. Here's a cocobolo-colored dymondwood handle I did on a sujihiki recently:
1045156_508189832584071_1016462704_n.jpg


- Chris
 
Just to add to what Chris said above about Dymondwood, while knife makers may frown on it, the General Public seems to go bonkers over it. So if you're going to sell all those knives, this may give you some food for thought! (yes, pun intended ;) )
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top