A general question about dyeing

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Jan 14, 2015
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There is something that has been bothering for some time and I am not sure where my mistake is.
I am getting varying results when dyeing, even on the same piece of leather. granted, I don't slick the leather yet, and i only wipe it off with a damp cloth (it is non waxed veg tanned).
So when using Fiebings Oil Dye, do you use a very small amount for dyeing (I'm using wool dauber in a circular motion) or apply the dye generously?
Also on the dye it mentions that for a richer colour you should apply the dye 2 or 3 times. Do let the previous coat dry all the way before applying the next one?
Do you wipe the leather down right after applying the dye?
I know over the course of applying wax and the coating and buffing in between the colour evens out, however, sometimes the colour is extremly blotchy.

of course, a lot will also be due to my inexperience, but i was wondering.
Hope everyone has a nice weekend!
 
Light colors like saddle tan are a real test of patience and perseverance.

Oil dye has a period of "leveling" where it slowly evens out. I get good results from moving the dauber quickly in overlapping circles never stopping till I get to the end and trying my best to evenly distribute the dye. It does take a somewhat loaded dauber but its also contingent on how big the area is your working on. The bigger the area, the more hair you will be pulling out.

For most of my colors I let it finish leveling and is not longer cool to the touch. Too early and you will get an uneven coating.
 
agreed.....to add, I get best results when dying both sides of the leather. In some cases, this is a costly proposition because of the thickness and basic dimension of the work piece.

I will often dye the surface twice, the second application while the first is still damp. I'll let that dry and wipe the piece. If it needs the third coat, I'll add it and then if it still looks blotchy when it's dry, I'll dye the flesh side of the work. That often 'fixes' the blotch [but not always].

There will always be inconsistencies in the leather and it's nothing that you are doing wrong. The natural properties/densities of the leather, the way the tanning solutions impregnate the piece, the health of the animal while it was still alive, preparations and storage of the skins just after death...Hell....storage after being removed from the tanning process.....all will affect the piece and how it will look after you've tooled and dyed the piece.

It is the nature of the beast and how it affects our craft. I have never ever created a piece that was "perfect"...rather, they were all "looking good."

remember....dying the leather isn't a "cover up"....it's an enhancement to it's natural beauty.
 
thank you for your feedback. i will look into letting the level out before applying the second level.
 
I forgot to mention that almost all of the work I do is lace-gouged and punched prior to staining...and I often stain before assembly. After assembly I add more just to even it out. Kind of impossible to stain an inside when it's assembled already LOL
 
agreed.....to add, I get best results when dying both sides of the leather. In some cases, this is a costly proposition because of the thickness and basic dimension of the work piece.

I will often dye the surface twice, the second application while the first is still damp. I'll let that dry and wipe the piece. If it needs the third coat, I'll add it and then if it still looks blotchy when it's dry, I'll dye the flesh side of the work. That often 'fixes' the blotch [but not always].

There will always be inconsistencies in the leather and it's nothing that you are doing wrong. The natural properties/densities of the leather, the way the tanning solutions impregnate the piece, the health of the animal while it was still alive, preparations and storage of the skins just after death...Hell....storage after being removed from the tanning process.....all will affect the piece and how it will look after you've tooled and dyed the piece.

It is the nature of the beast and how it affects our craft. I have never ever created a piece that was "perfect"...rather, they were all "looking good."

remember....dying the leather isn't a "cover up"....it's an enhancement to it's natural beauty.
Good words, I agree totally. Sometimes a quick second go over is best when it looks like its not going to settle properly. Especially if your dauber suddenly give out 3/4 of the way there. Its frustrating but not impossible to fix. :)
 
On veg tanned leather I have used daubers, ear buds and sponges. At the dollar I bought spray bottles which I found in the "Travel" section. They come in a three pack (only one with a spray head, inter changeable. I find spraying of my sheaths, holsters etc gives the item a more even coat and less messing.
 
another question, as i've seen variations of this all over the place... what isthe order in which you are using different products?

(i'm obviously lacking in the leather preparing section)
wipe the leather down with a damp sponge
either let it dry or do the tooling and then let it dry
apply dye
do the edges
apply wax finish (and maybe edge kote to the inside/back)
apply bag kote/similar sealer
 
Pretty much the same order here, with a couple exceptions

I wipe the leather with either rubbing alcohol or denatured alcohol. A good friend of mine used wood bleach.

I've always avoided that goopy edge kote. Just sand down till smooth, wetting the edge during the final high grit sanding. Gum tragacanth, done.

I do wax for the final finish, Fiebings Leather Balm with Atom Wax. Sometimes Aussie Leather Conditioner if an added level of water resistance is needed. I try to avoid using sealers like bag kote unless its specified by the customer.
 
thank you for your answers... i actually only use edge kote on the back and the inside ever since i got gum tragacanth. i still have lots of room for improvement as i do the edge sanding by hand.
i'm using fiebings leather balm with atom wax as well and am pretty satisfied with it.
i think omega mentioned the use of rubbing alcohol as well. i will have to try this.
 
Heck, no problems doing the edge sanding by hand, I do most of mine by hand as well. I use a disk to even up the spine and edge sides, then a finer belt to finish off those stray fibers, edging and final sanding are done by hand.

But there are as many ways to do edges as there are leather benders out there, almost every one thinks theirs is the best way. :D I've tried almost every one, but power burnishing, and finally settled on what works for me. Its caused some leather workers some distress because I'm doing it "wrong", but meh, it works for me so I'm good with it. I also got a rather sad head shake because I wont spend fifty bucks on a glue pot, but again, meh. :p

Do what makes you happy and dont worry over someone else's concerns. Try them all out and do what fits your personality and what you like. I offer my help without conditions, I am not going to get my feelings hurt if you dont do things my way. I always try to encourage everyone to find their own style, not become a "mini me" :D
 
another question, as i've seen variations of this all over the place... what isthe order in which you are using different products?

(i'm obviously lacking in the leather preparing section)
wipe the leather down with a damp sponge
either let it dry or do the tooling and then let it dry
apply dye
do the edges
apply wax finish (and maybe edge kote to the inside/back)
apply bag kote/similar sealer

This is my general order....

1. Cut the pattern of the piece.
2. Wet, tool/carve and let dry [includes preliminary edging].
3. Cut the stitch groove and punch holes. Add any 2nd piece belt attachment.
4. Dye until I'm happy with the look.
5. Cement and stitch.
6. Complete the edging work...restain if needed.
7. Waterproofing and polishing work.
 
I've used a spray bottle as well. Works pretty well if you can find one with a fine spray pattern.

I cannot remember where you are located, but they sell a spray tool called Preval at my local hardware stores. It is very inexpensive and works very well. Only problem is that it can be wasteful with dye. I suggest thinning with alcohol. Also, I don't remember it being particularly good with black dye, others work well though.

Yes, alcohol in a 50/50 solution with clear water is a great prep.

Lastly, I don't use daubers any more except for certain things. For general coverage I much prefer dense sponge. Not the open cell sponges like for dish cleaning, but for cars/horses/sponge paint brushes etc. I buy large ones and cut them into smaller squares.

My understanding about daubers (from Springfield Leather) is that they will remain wet, but the dye will start running out even when they still look wet. This can be fixed by starting at one end of your project, then re-dipping the dauber and going back the other way, but I really don't see an advantage of using them at all over a good dense sponge. I've heard of using the super dense sponges that women use to remove makeup, but I haven't tried one. Seems like they may not pick up much dye, but again, I don't know.
 
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Still lovin my daubers, but like most everything, everyone had their own likes and dislikes. There would not be so many brands of cars, liquor, beer, wine, food, paint, etc etc etc.... otherwise. :D But some hold onto their beliefs a little more than others, so opinions are your own, no matter how others respond. :)
 
Still lovin my daubers, but like most everything, everyone had their own likes and dislikes. There would not be so many brands of cars, liquor, beer, wine, food, paint, etc etc etc.... otherwise. :D But some hold onto their beliefs a little more than others, so opinions are your own, no matter how others respond. :)
Couldn't agree more. :thumbup:

Only thing I'd caution y'all against is using mud daubers! Trust me. They don't leave a nice pattern and can be a pain to use. :p

Sorry, I couldn't help it.
 
Now you cant dispute the artistic prowess of the venerable mud dauber, I've seen some pretty awesome dauber nests! :D
 
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