A gun question

fast14riot

fast14riot

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Oct 27, 2010
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Wasn't quite sure where to put this, its part gun question, part knifemaker question.

Anyways, I have an old 1917 rifle in need of reblue. It has 95 years worth of bumps, dings and scratches. Rather than sanding by hand (don't have an expansion wheel sander) to smooth it out, could I use a coarse scotch brite belt on a 2x72 to do the bulk of the work? I'm not after a high shine and smooh finish, but want a matte and even finish. Its never going to be a pristine rifle, and frankly it isn't worth it. I just like the gun and want it to be around many more years.

The 2x72 is 2hp with vfd, so I can dial it down in speed very easily. Anyone ever do this? Thoughts? Words of caution or advice?


-Xander
 
I did something similar, I bead blasted it with crushed garnet and then parkerized it. work like a champ
 
Yeah, that was my first option, but I don't have a blast cabinet and would have to pay the 'smith to do it. I have access to the grinder and can do it myself to save some money.


-Xander
 
I'd take it down by hand with a 220 then quick 320 grit sand paper using a block of wood as a backing. You'd be surprised how fast it'll go. Then either rust blue or brown. First muzzle loader I built I took the barrel down to a nice 400 grit hand rubbed finish and found the browning solution left a finish that would wipe out 320 grit scratches. Fact is it works faster and better on a nice 220 or 320 grit finish.

As for the wood, I imagine it's an oil finish. I'd try finish remover and if it's still full of cosmoline I'd probably stick it in the dishwasher if it's not a collectors piece. Then lightly sand to the metal hardware and use an oil finish to bring the wood back to life.
 
I have owned a number of old WWI rifles over the years. Most I bought for near nothing ($30 - $40) as projects. I never did refinish the metal parts, but I did work on restoring a couple of the stocks. I have to say, though, that restoring the finish may make the piece more displayable, but it damages the historical value of the piece. Not that value plays into this, but if you were ever thinking you might sell it, it is something to consider.

- Greg
 
Thanx for the tips guys, but I should have noted, this is a sporter not an original. I have two stocks for it at the moment, so no worries there. This has ben drilled like swiss cheese on the side rail, then filled so I would rather have a even matte finish than trying for a bright blue. I'm already bordering being upside-down on its value V. investment so not wanting to spend a bunch of money with trying to match all the bluing.

Its a good old gun, it shoots "minute of coyote" quite well. That's all I ask of it. Its not going to be a competition winner, but it will shoot where I point it all day long and reliably take game.


-Xander
 
Draw file the blemishes, and then hand sand them with 220. Then bead blast. Garnet's ok, slica is better, depending on the finish. You'll need to do this even if you use the belt or grinder as those will never get all the old finish off and when you refinish it you'll see that immediately (if you can even get the finish to "take").

The problem with using electric tools is that you'll get a wave in the metal and smooth off all the sharp edges unless you really have a lot of experience. Looks like s***.

You can hide some of those screw holes if you get some headless screws (like they use to fill mounting holes from the factory) and then put them in with permanent LockTight. Leave them up higher than the screw slot and then file them down, sand and blast, and you'll have to look close to see them.

Get what you need from Brownell's. Tell them you want a black finish, not a blue. If you're not going to blue it yourself you can take it to a commercial metal plater and have them put it in with the next batch of stuff they run, most do blueing/blacking. They usually charge by the pound but the parts must be ready to finish (blasted, cleaned, totally oil free).
 
eisman said:
Draw file the blemishes, and then hand sand them with 220. Then bead blast. Garnet's ok, slica is better, depending on the finish. You'll need to do this even if you use the belt or grinder as those will never get all the old finish off and when you refinish it you'll see that immediately (if you can even get the finish to "take").

The problem with using electric tools is that you'll get a wave in the metal and smooth off all the sharp edges unless you really have a lot of experience. Looks like s***.

You can hide some of those screw holes if you get some headless screws (like they use to fill mounting holes from the factory) and then put them in with permanent LockTight. Leave them up higher than the screw slot and then file them down, sand and blast, and you'll have to look close to see them.

Get what you need from Brownell's. Tell them you want a black finish, not a blue. If you're not going to blue it yourself you can take it to a commercial metal plater and have them put it in with the next batch of stuff they run, most do blueing/blacking. They usually charge by the pound but the parts must be ready to finish (blasted, cleaned, totally oil free).
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For the side rail, I have some insert screws I will pien over and file flat.

If you say that anything short of media blasting the old blue off won't be sufficient, then I will have to have it done. I was just looking to save a bit of money by prepping it myself then having the local smith do a hot blue. I may still be able to save a bit of money on the prep, but don't have the means to set up my own hot blue tank now.

1SHOT1KILL said:
Email sent
Click to expand...

Thanx! Replied.


-Xander
 
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