A litle help for a newbie

S

saniterra

Joined
Oct 29, 2005
Messages
129
I'm new to Busse Knives (since about Oct. 15, 2014), though not Bussekin, and I have a few questions about blade finish. Can someone please:

1) Explain to me the specific differences between or among (according to English grammar rules) Busse's "competition", "satin", "double-cut" and "BIG" finish blade treatments?

2) Give me some kind of estimate or assessment as to how to make the competition, satin BIG and combat grade finishes look like the double cut finish or at least fairly close to it?

I am already aware of etching the Busse logo on combat grade finishes before any blade stripping process is undertaken and aware that changing finishes may require the removal of the knife's scales. I don't know if the application of some sort of silicon adhesive/coating is necessary to protect the bare INFI beneath the scales is or would advisable or a good idea. I also know that there is some sort coating beneath the baked-on (?) combat grade finish and that it would absolutely require removal, but I don't know if this same coating is used on the satin or BIG finishes.

So, if you will, a little help. It will be appreciated, I assure you. Thanks much.
 
Find the Busse that appeals to you most and get it. Start here.
Swinecosa :D
 
Competition finish is basically just a raw blade, unfinished & unrefined, shows a fair amount of machining marks and often has a BUNCH of dimples on the flats. Reflects a fair amount of light, but more subdued than satin finishes.

Satin is a hand applied 'satin' polishing of the blade, basically a high grit finish w/ uniform refined scratch pattern then finished with something like a scotchbrite belt. The surface will reflect a large amount of light, but lacks the 'mirror' finish of higher grit finishing.

Double Cut is a 'twice' bead blasted finish, the first blast removes the surface imperfections and the second peens & closes the pores of the steel for increased rust resistance. The blade has a matte finish, yet does reflect a small amount of light

BIG Satin appears to be surface ground on the flats with some sort of circular wheel grinder setup, then higher grit finished with uniform scratch pattern on the primary grinds. As best I can tell, it ould potentially be a bit more reflective than competition finish.

Everybody has a different opinion here of what finish 'wears' the best, but I personally do not think that any of these finishes really look bad after some use.

As far as maintaining the finishes listed…..

Double Cut will require a blast cabinet, appropriate media & some skill.

Competition Finish is also bead blasted, so the same applies here.

The satins should only really require a bit of scotchbrite to bring back for light users.
 
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Another avatar change, Red Angel Dragnet? Like this one - and rock that Kasbah...Cheers.
 
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Thanks for the helpful info, Red Angel Dragnet. One of the more distinctive monikers I see on this, or any other, site...;-)
 
There were actually two "competition" finishes. With the original competition finish, as described by Jerry here, they'd "take a blade straight from the furnace and do a light pass on a wheel and then it's all about the edge." These blades still had a layer of decarb and quickly acquired a coating of surface rust, as seen here. This was supplanted by a new competition finish that wasn't prone to rusting, but was still pretty rough and covered with INFI dimples. For a while you could call up the shop get a Team Gemini Light Brigade with the competition finish, which was a pretty good approximation of Daryl Dixon's knife. They stopped offering that too. It now seems to have been superseded by the "BIG Satin" finish (Busse Industrial Grade Satin Finish), as seen in the Thanksgiving Ganzaaaaa 2014.

If you had something with a satin or BIG finish and wanted double cut, you could probably get Busse to do it. It would be worth contacting Garth, anyway.
 
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Thank you Red Angel and Texican, your replies were very informative and I much appreciate them. I am assuming that the finish under the crinkle coats is something approximating that of the first competition finish. That is, it does have a layer of the crinkle coat, with the grinding marks and dimples readily apparent. If my assumptions are wrong, then again, please correct me. Thanks.
 
saniterra said:
Thank you Red Angel and Texican, your replies were very informative and I much appreciate them. I am assuming that the finish under the crinkle coats is something approximating that of the first competition finish. That is, it does have a layer of the crinkle coat, with the grinding marks and dimples readily apparent. If my assumptions are wrong, then again, please correct me. Thanks.
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It can be something of a mixed bag under the coating. If the blade has a full height flat grind, like a B11 or ASHBM, then the entire primary grind will look great and only the ricasso will be fugly. If you have a sabre grind, the primary grind will be good, but the flat portion above will have INFI dimples and/or crazy marks.
 
Thanks again, Texican, and thanks as well to you resinguy. Your answers and references to older threads have been helpful. I have gathered that one can never be really certain what is under a blade coating until it is fully removed along with the decarb coating or treatment. Nothing I've read here discourages me from at least trying a blade coating strip and sanding of a Busse blade, but I think I'm going to start small - my Meaner Street. If I end up having to remove the scales - though I will try to avoid it - I don't see that as much of a problem as it might be. Thankfully there is a lot of information here about reinstalling and crimping new hollow pins, but I am not particularly averse to replacing them with solid screws. I'll make that decision when I get there. Again, thank you all for your assistance.
 
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