A little fat warden help...

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Apr 26, 2007
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Well this fatty warden is my first Busse so I'm completely new to the company. I've got a Triangle Sharpmaker that puts an excellent edge on all my other knives. For the life of me, I can't get a "shaving" edge on the Warden. The strange part is that the fine rods seem to make it less sharp which is really confusing me.

Maybe because it is so thick it takes way more time? Maybe put a 30 degree back bevel and then the 40 degree edge?

Thoughts?
 
Having sharpened a few Busses on my sharpmaker, I have found that they are pretty thick right behind the edge, and the angle they come from the factory with is much greater than the angles on the sharpmaker. If you are dead set on using the sharpmaker, you will need to bring the included edge angle down to something less than 40 degrees before using it, or get the diamond rods and spend a couple hours at it (if your knife is typical of the three small ones I have). Get yourself a jeweller's loupe so you can examine the edge to see when and if you start getting all the way to the edge. When I first got the sharpmaker, I thought I was hitting the edge, then, after talking to a helpful guy out at the spyderco factory outlet store, I bought a loupe. When examining the edge under the loupe, it was readily apparent that I wasn't nearly there yet. As for the fine rods, if you are truely hitting the edge, you should sharpen on the fine rods with a very light touch. All that being said, I find that once you get the preferred edge angle on one, the best way to keep them sharp is "steeling" them on a ceramic rod. If you live in the Denver, metro area, drop me a line. I would be more than happy to give you a rundown on sharpening methods. I have a sharpmaker, edge-pro, eze-sharp, all manner of strops, belt grinder, and water stones. I am pretty good on all of the aforementioned methods (there are probably quite a few people on here that are better, but I get good results). You might also consider the sand paper on a mouse pad method.
 
Thanks for that, I was expecting that a bit...
Should I expect something similar from the ASH I ordered?
 
I don't own one so I couldn't say for sure, but I would suspect that it will hold true. Keep in mind that you will want a thicker edge for harder work. all my small knives are <30 degrees included since I use them for cutting and fine work exclusively. My larger knives I leave with a >30 degree angle so they stand up to chopping/prying/digging/etc.
 
Of course of course. It kind of doesn't make sense to have such an obtuse edge on a smaller knife like this.
 
Well back when I got my first GW user… an LE, I tried to use a sharpmaker and the GW NEVER got sharp. I must have sat at my desk for hours with that thing.:grumpy: :grumpy: I finally just propped up one side to change the angle of the rods.

Eventually I started to try a lot of different methods and finally tried the mouse pad and sand paper routine. Eureka :eek: :eek: :eek: sharp Busses. Since then I moved on to a strop and fine green compound and the edges on all the Busses I use will push cut paper NO MATTER HOW THICK the blade is. :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
researching...
Justabuyer put together a good thread. I've got good strops that work on everything else...
LOL - frustrating. My GW wouldn't push cut a marshmallow right now :D
 
I use a leather belt on my grinder and a green Veritas bar.
POWER STROP!!!:thumbup::thumbup:
 
ive never had luck with the sharpmaker on my busses.

either a chef steel, edge pro, strop, or using the sharpmaker stones freehand.

the edge pro gets mine sharper than i have ever been able to do with any other method.

many are able to get a great edge with a mousepad and sandpaper. i havent had much luck with this technique either.
 
I've rebeveled all my Busse's to between 10 and 15 per side and the thickest I have is .18. I tried at first using a 1000 grit Japanese waterstone and after an hour I was still nowhere even close to the edge. I ended up going to the store and buying 120 grit sandpaper and stapling it around a 2 x 4. It still took quite awhile and I went through many sheets of sandpaper. I didn't stop using the sandpaper until the edge was shaving sharp. Then I used the waterstone and some ceramic rods to get it hair splitting sharp (ahh the fun part).

Sandpaper, lots of it, very coarse. Saves a lot of time. :D
 
Yeah that's the direction tomthebaker sent me too. Time to start all over tomorrow.

I would say though, that the factory edge on the fat warden seems too obtuse.
 
Yeah that's the direction tomthebaker sent me too. Time to start all over tomorrow.

I would say though, that the factory edge on the fat warden seems too obtuse.

the blade is so fat, and not very wide. the result is a more obtuse edge.


i think you would find the thinner blades have a more acute edge, and may be more to your liking. the earlier gw's were anywhere from .14 to .17 thick.
 
one of these days maybe Jerry will grace us with a "skinny warden" something under .125 would be the cat's meow IMHO. After all, not everybody wants a sharpened railroad spike all the time.....that being said, I like my sharpened railroad spikes just fine.....just want another option for edc.
 
That would be the Cultellus that was just offered.

Rick

Nah not really, the warden has a great shape and look to it. Personally I don't like the Cultellus simply by appearance alone.
The GW is a beautiful knife and it would be perfect of EDC stuff. The nice fat slightly curved handle feels really nice.
I'm going to bust out the sandpaper again today and see if I can't convex that edge.
 
I only have one busse and it is a gamewarden. I treat the edge the same way I do my work knives( Im a chef) with a 12" DMT diamond steel and a fine ceramic hone. I have yet to need to put them on a stone(Norton,DMT) yet because of the convex edge. I probably will start to use a strop more often as well, but havent had one till recently. Keep in mind using a steel correctly is an art in of self so practice alot on some non-infi. All this works for me. Ive heard some god stuff about the sandpaper/mouse pad technique as well.Just not how I do things.
 
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