a little hard to open and close my new Sebenza

C

cognitivefun

Joined
Oct 24, 2004
Messages
1,032
I just got a small regular. I think it is a little hard to open, compared to my Ritter mini Grip anyway.

Do you have suggestions? I loosened the screws so they are finger tight (as recommended in the instructions). I lubricated the pivot with a bit of Mobil 1 (Not the flourinated grease however.)

It is still a bit hard to open and the thumblug is hard on my finger.

Do you have suggestions? Thanks!
 
I had the same problem, my small Sebenza was real rough opening it and I could not understand it because I adjusted the pivot and oiled it with WD40. Once I used the flourinated grease on the pivot the knife was way more smooth. You may want to order some of that.
 
Definitely go with the CRK fluorinated grease. There's a reason why they recommend it. Also, with just about any Sebbie there is going to be a "break in" period. Just open and close it over and over (and over) again until it loosens up and until you get used to the motion and force needed. Then you'll feel like you were born with the Sebbie in your hand. Enjoy! ;)
 
Mine was exactly the same. I think they all come like this from the factory.

It's very smooth now though.
 
First of all, the screws need to be tight, I don't know where you got the info that they need to be finger tight. Mobil One probably isn't a good choice for lubrication. The flourinated grease is the way to go. Instead of trying to push the blade straight open with an outward movement, try slipping your thumb in between the thumblug and the frame of the knife with upward pressure. It sounds to me like you are trying to muscle the knife open. I've had friends try to open my Sebenza and I've seen them try to push it outward and it doesn't work well that way. Your thumb should be pushing up and contact with the thumblug at the lower quarter of the lug that is closest to the frame. Running your thumb upwards parallel to the handle should do the trick. Hope that helps. :)
 
It just needs to be used, opened and closed many times for the washers/bushings to break in a bit. Tight tolerances generally require a short break-in period before the wear parts settle.
 
That sort of thing happened a couple of times with Benchmades and Spydercos. I think sometimes there's manufacaturing 'dust' left. So when it happens, I wash them, dry them completely (using a hair dryer or some of that canned air) and then lube them. Seems to do the trick. Never had that problem with any of the Chris Reeve knives...but as noted above, it did take a little practice to open them correctly. Good luck!
Steve
 
Scott Dog said:
First of all, the screws need to be tight, I don't know where you got the info that they need to be finger tight.
Click to expand...

from the paper that came with the knife, "The wrench can also be used to ensure that the screws are kept tight -- finger tight is good"
 
I ordered the fluorinated grease. Thanks for the tips about washing etc. I will try that too. And I am playing with the knife, needless to say, opening and closing.

My impressions are that it is extremely solidly built. I love my Ritter mini Grip and think it is a great knife, but the Sebenza is another level of solid. It reminds me, pardon my saying so, of my Glocks. Seemingly indestructible, no blade play whatsover, designed to quickly strip and put back together again. With engineering that seems simple, no little fiddly parts to break, no springs even. Wow.

It is a bit hard to open and my fingers feel a bit worn :)
 
cognitivefun said:
It reminds me, pardon my saying so, of my Glocks.
Click to expand...
No need to ask for anyone's pardon, IMHO. I have often likened Sebbies to Glocks. Both are elegant, strong, very well constructed and were developed with a "no none-sense" approach to getting the job done. ;)
 
there's a special way of making it way smooth....it involves disassembly, cleaning and militec-1. your sebbie may have been untouched for a long time, so needs some cleaning and relubing....
 
spyken said:
there's a special way of making it way smooth....it involves disassembly, cleaning and militec-1. your sebbie may have been untouched for a long time, so needs some cleaning and relubing....
Click to expand...

I agree. I had one that was hard to open. I took it apart, cleaned all the gook out with a rag and lubed it with Breakfree Oil as I reassembled it and it was perfect after that.
 
Yep take it apart. It's the best way. My point about loosening the screws is that smothness of operation is not affected by screw tightness ir lack thereof.
 
I took the pivot screw and the blade out and cleaned the bushings etc., lubed and replaced. Still isn't easy enough to open and close. I can do it with my right thumb but not my left and it isn't any easier.

Compared to my BM Ritter grip, this Sebbie is difficult to open one handed.

should I send it back to CR? Am I expecting too much?
 
cognitivefun said:
I took the pivot screw and the blade out and cleaned the bushings etc., lubed and replaced. Still isn't easy enough to open and close. I can do it with my right thumb but not my left and it isn't any easier.

Compared to my BM Ritter grip, this Sebbie is difficult to open one handed.

should I send it back to CR? Am I expecting too much?
Click to expand...

are you pushing your thumb outwards? if so, you should change the way you open. you should just push forward. the detent on the sebbie is firm, so that it doesn't open up unwittingly - that's the way it should be. but once it's passed that initial "detent" feeling, the opening should be glassy smooth...

try it, let us know if it makes a difference. just put your thumb on the stud and push forward...
 
spyken said:
are you pushing your thumb outwards? if so, you should change the way you open. you should just push forward. the detent on the sebbie is firm, so that it doesn't open up unwittingly - that's the way it should be. but once it's passed that initial "detent" feeling, the opening should be glassy smooth...

try it, let us know if it makes a difference. just put your thumb on the stud and push forward...
Click to expand...

thank you -- I think that does work better. It is easier than it was before I cleaned it. I guess that is how it is supposed to be. It is totally smooth once it passes the detente (sp?).
 
cognitivefun said:
thank you -- I think that does work better. It is easier than it was before I cleaned it. I guess that is how it is supposed to be. It is totally smooth once it passes the detente (sp?).
Click to expand...

I went through the same thing with mine when I got it last summer. I think part of the problem was my confusion between "smooth" and "easy". I learned that most people here mean "smooth" as in "doesn't bind or catch", where I was mixing up smooth and slick, which really aren't the same thing. After lubing mine a few times it's still relatively hard to open, compared to my other folders. You get used to it though, and after a while you don't notice it much.

Guy
 
Denix said:
I went through the same thing with mine when I got it last summer. I think part of the problem was my confusion between "smooth" and "easy". I learned that most people here mean "smooth" as in "doesn't bind or catch", where I was mixing up smooth and slick, which really aren't the same thing. After lubing mine a few times it's still relatively hard to open, compared to my other folders. You get used to it though, and after a while you don't notice it much.

Guy
Click to expand...

You can't compare it to folders using teflon or nylatron washers. The sebbie uses bronze phosphor washers, which will get smoother and smoother with use. Plus no matter how hard you tighten the pivot, the smoothness is exactly the same, thanks to the bushing system the Sebbie uses. Just ask those who have worked their Sebbie for awhile, the Sebbies are as smooth as any folders using teflon / nylatron washers.

Some guys have posted that polishing the washers helps make it even smoother, although Anne has said that this may affect the zero bladeplay tolerances....
 
cognitivefun said:
It is totally smooth once it passes the detente (sp?).
Click to expand...
How do you hold the knife when opening it? If you are applying pressure on the frame lock, the detent will be hard to release. The frame lock moves slightly outward when the knife starts to open. The ceramic detent ball on the lock has to move out of the divot in the blade. Try modifying your grip on the knife to prevent pressure on the frame lock.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top