A little help

C

copper

Joined
Mar 1, 2000
Messages
79
I have a question about "Smithing" a factory blade. The knife in question is the larger Buck intrepid. Sorry, I don't know how to post pictures, but it can be seen here: http://onestopknifeshop.com/images/buck/500/189T.jpg

The part of the blade nearest the handle has an unsharpened section about 1" long with a little tooth, then the serrated section. I can't figure out for the life of me why they did this, but I like the knife and want to get one for the boat. Can I grind or saw out a little bit of this area in a "C" or "J" shape and sharpen it to make a line cutter out of that section? I know grinding that much will generate a lot of heat. Will it be too much? Could I slowly saw or file the area out? And, if I did get it done, would it compromise blade integrity much?

Thanks for any information

 
Copper,

You could probably sharpen that area and not affect the blade strength if it was a small c shape, but I wouldn't put a large line cutter similar to a gut hook there. Sure as heck I would grab it and be missing a finger tip.
Have you thought about placing the line cutter near the false edge and between the handle.
My 2cents

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Scott Jones
Heck yea I invented it ...What is it???
I only do what the voices in my wifes head tell me to do.
It's kinda like hangin, you never get used to it.
 
yes you can grind hardened steel without any problem..just dont get it too hot or you will screw up the temper.....and you could probably make it any way you want...the best and easiest is to find a knifemaker with a variable speed machine, the whole process could be done in less than 10 minutes....you could also sand it by hand....a few hours of being patient. (kinda like waiting to see the doctor cause hes making 400 dollars an hour and cant be bothered to see you right away-little personal grip and pun thrown in for free!!!!
smile.gif


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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
Hamster bite you Tom? Good.

Copper, don't bother with a saw or file; they won't work very well. If you have a dremel, use a stone bit and grind slowly, dipping in water frequently. If you don't have a dremel, wrap some emery paper around a dowel and sand it to shape. After you get it where you want it, change to finer papers to refine and sharpen the edge. This will likely go faster than you think.

Third option of course is to send it to Tom.

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Jerry Hossom
www.hossom.com
 
Copper-

If I'm following your question, it's about the bevel grind on the spine of the blade. That's just something that dive knives typically have to add a cutting edge without taking any more steel/strength out of the tip of the blade. The knife of Kit's homepage is very very similar to the one you're interested in.

Like Tom said, with a variable speed grinder and a dipping pale, it would take maybe 10 minutes.

The saw, file, and paper methods would all be really really hard to get started, if they would. Buck is well known for treating their blades to a high Rc and not drawing them back too far...so, even the stone in the dremel might not work, you might just grind grooves into the bit.

However, I think ultimately you'll have to use paper and a rod or file to put a cutting edge on a gut hook style shape.

Nick

[This message has been edited by NickWheeler (edited 05-25-2000).]

[This message has been edited by NickWheeler (edited 05-25-2000).]
 
189T.jpg
Here is your picture.Files and sandpaper should work.....Bruce

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The Soul of the Knife begins in the FIRE !!!! Akti # A000223

[This message has been edited by beknives (edited 05-25-2000).]
 
copper,
I'm not exactly sure where you are talking about on the knife. On the underside, in front of the guard?
When I was going thru the prototype stages of the U2 (before it became the Buck Intrepid) the Navy EOD guys tested several places that I put a line cutter and they just didn't work. The blade was too thick. The final version of the outward scalloped serrations proved to work well cutting line. They appreciated those serrations more than a single line cutter.
Have you tried to cut rope/line with them? Try it, you might not want a single cutter.
Let me know if I can help.
 
Well, obviously I didn't pay enough attention when I was reading your question.

You're talking about that little nub that seperates the serrated cutting edge from the choil...aren't you?

With that much in mind, I'd just leave it be if I were you.
 
Kit,
Yes, that's the spot. Just in front of the guard. I prefer the longer version of the Intrepid and I merely wanted to make that un-sharpened portion a usable part of the blade if possible. It didn't necesarily have to be a line cutter. However, if it has a function, tactically or otherwise, I will leave it (When I buy it, that is.)

 
It can be used for choking up some on the handle. The other use, in combination with the guard serrations, is it makes for a great beer bottle opener.
biggrin.gif

 
You can grind all you want. Make one pass and quench in water. Make next pass and quench in water. The blade will never get warm and will never harm the temper. DO NOT KEEP GRINDING UNTIL BLADE GETS HOT!

Rick Leeson
 
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