A little overwhelmed looking into sharpening systems, please help.

S

Somedayrockstar

Joined
Jul 23, 2013
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So I've been looking into getting a sharpening system and maybe I'm confused. There's a ton of info out there I know but I guess I'm not understanding things. I'm trying to decide if I want to go with the wheels on the desktop grinder route or a belt sander route. Can I achieve the same results with both systems? Also would the ken onion worsharp or regular work sharp be the same as a belt sander? Just smaller scale. Please help. Thanks.
 
I've avoided mechanical power systems, because I'm afraid of the following:
1) Removing too much material.
2) Screwing up the heat treat.

That said, I've seen quite a few people on here rave about paper wheels, work-sharp and belt sanders. There really isn't a right or wrong way to do it, it's just personal preference.

If I had to choose a mechanical system, i'd choose a paper wheel because of the ability to rapidly raise a burr, and to get stupid sharp edges almost effortlessly (With practice).

Belt sanders are great for knives you that have been trashed or for friends that abuse the crap out of their knives and want you to keep them sharp. A couple swipes on a 400 grit belt and you're good to go. I've never been super happy with an edge off a belt sander. I find they are generally too coarse. I've use belt sanders to reprofile an edge, and then I'd use water stones to polish and finish it. I sharpen all of my knives with water stones and a strop. I like the traditional way, but that is just personal preference.
 
Those that own a variation of the Work Sharp will be able to tell you about the system. I don't have one. I also don't have the paper wheels. I DO have and use a Delta 1x30.

If I had to guess I'd say that the WS is very similar to a belt grinder, with a few differences. Obviously you can buy a belt grinder in various widths and lengths, however I'm not aware of 1/2" (or 3/4 on the KO) grinders. A grinder like mine will use belts more cost efficiently as there is more surface area, plus they are readily available in a lot of grits and abrasive types. The narrow WS belts are better for recurve blades. If you remove the guide on the WS, and the platen on the belt grinder I imagine they are pretty similar. Both have a learning curve. Buy cheap knives to practice on, and never move the tip more than halfway across the belt. The is easier on the 1" belt, although it may be easy on the WS, I just don't know.

As for the paper wheels, there is a gentleman by the screen name of Richard J that is well known around here for his outstanding results on the paper wheels. In my own experience, a friend, Omar, sent me a knife that he had sharpened using the wheels and I can testify that the blades are very sharp.

Both of the belt systems will produce a convex edge. You could try sharpening against the platen on the 1x30 but I don't recommend it.

The cheapest buy in will be the 1x30.

Good luck narrowing it down. Once you do decide on a system search this forum as there is a wealth of information on all of them. There are also plenty of great people here that can help with more specific questions. :)
 
Thanks. I just keep hearing about scary sharp knives and I'd like to be able to achieve that. I had a incident the other day where my super sharp maybe even scary sharp came in handy as I needed to do some hair shaving. I had brought it somewhere where they used a belt sander. I would like to be able to do my own sharpening though. Just trying to figure out my options and it sounds like I'm on track. So with wheels I would not receive the convex edge but both belt sander and work sharp should achieve this since they are basically the same thing.
 
You can get a convex edge on the paper wheels, but you need to be conscious about doing it. In actuality, you will get a small convex since it is all hand controlled and most people are not that steady and exact by hand. The only difference between the wheels and the belt sander is that the wheels do not have any give to them. They are basically a belt mounted on a paper wheel that is not changeable. The Grit is 180, but it is coated with a wax to keep the knife from overheating, and will almost prohibit any sparks from showing. It does not remove a lot of metal if used right, which is to use light pressure and let the wheel do all the work.

When I have a knife that needs a major re-profile done on it, I use my Work Sharp, and then finish it up with the wheels. I just do that to save on extra wear on the grit wheel. I can sharpen a couple of hundred or more knives before I need to re-grit the wheel this way.

Either system (wheels or belt grinder) will get you sharp knives with proper use and some experience. Good luck on your choice.

Blessings,

Omar
 
The Work Sharp is a cool little tool but a cheap Harbor Freight 1x30 belt sander retired it.
Pick one up and order a few belts on line and with a little practice you'll be very happy.
Its not all that scary once you get the hang of it. I believe there is much less margin for error than with a WS.
Don't forget to order a leather belt for touch ups and burr removal, It is a must have if you want crazy sharp edges
 
Last edited:
manlyman said:
I've avoided mechanical power systems, because I'm afraid of the following:
1) Removing too much material.
2) Screwing up the heat treat.

That said, I've seen quite a few people on here rave about paper wheels, work-sharp and belt sanders. There really isn't a right or wrong way to do it, it's just personal preference.

If I had to choose a mechanical system, i'd choose a paper wheel because of the ability to rapidly raise a burr, and to get stupid sharp edges almost effortlessly (With practice).

Belt sanders are great for knives you that have been trashed or for friends that abuse the crap out of their knives and want you to keep them sharp. A couple swipes on a 400 grit belt and you're good to go. I've never been super happy with an edge off a belt sander. I find they are generally too coarse. I've use belt sanders to reprofile an edge, and then I'd use water stones to polish and finish it. I sharpen all of my knives with water stones and a strop. I like the traditional way, but that is just personal preference.
Click to expand...

Get some experience with any of the listed methods and I believe most of your fears and maybe even preferred way to sharpen will change. I've seen it time and again when a person use to stones, Edge Pros, Wicked Edges and the like "discover" a mechanical, as you put it, method and are surprised by their effectiveness. If nothing else, get really good with a grinder and finish with stones on a reprofile job. It doesn't have to be dangerous to your knives at all. As with anything, it's all about practice and learning. :)

Now that I've said all of that, I'll be the first to point out that I'm very much still learning to use my grinder well. I suspect that this will never change.
 
Oh, also, I think the term "grinder" may be misleading. You can use one and really not remove much more (or any) steel than with stones.
 
Whatever you decide to go with its going to take PRACTICE! I happen to use a belt sander and the paper wheels. They work great. However it took me a while to get it, doesn't happen overnight.
 
I almost bought a harbor freight the other day but shipping to alaska was as much as the sander. Always getting screwed on shipping.
 
What about the Lansky/GATCO systems? The ones that have the narrow stones and diamond sharpeners and have the angle guide to follow? I used one today briefly at a demo nd it did a descent job. If I could have spent more time on it I think i would have had more acceptable results. What are your findings with these systems? Spend $80 and get the diamond sharpener or go for the natural stones and save $40? I want hair-shaving sharp. Not trying to hi-jack the thread, just thought the topic was applicable.

Thanks!!
 
No worries about hijacking it. The more info the better. For me I'd rather not have to spend a whole lot of time sharpening them. I understand there will be a learning curve for the power systems. Not sure how long the other systems like the lasnky will take.
 
Honestly, I don't really care for my Lansky. I only have the stones though, not diamond.

Silent17, if you'd like, shoot me an email for advice on one of my sharpening systems. I'd just tell you here, but some don't want to hear about it. Just trust me. ;)
 
I wouldn't recommend a powered system for a beginner. I think there's a lot to be said for learning the angles, burr formation and removal, etc. using the Lansky, Gatco, or DMT Aligner. A combination of a belt grinder and paper wheels is a good system for quick and potentially great results once the principles are understood. That's the route I took. I do use the Edge Pro Apex and EZESharp when I'm looking for precise edges and for relief grinds.

Good sharpening,
Dave
 
Dave, that's an excellent point. I tend to forget that the basics aren't understood by everyone. I absolutely agree that the basics will help. Even using the EP, or other guided systems.
 
Strigamort said:
Dave, that's an excellent point. I tend to forget that the basics aren't understood by everyone. I absolutely agree that the basics will help. Even using the EP, or other guided systems.
Click to expand...

That is very true! What may come easily for one, may not be as easy for others. I had the good fortune of growing up where a "whet rock" was all you had for all practical purposes. You either learned the basics of maintaining a constant angle of attack and how to do that with the stone, or go around with a butter knife dull knife to use for hunting and fishing duties. I had a great teacher in my Grandfather that took an interest in teaching me all those skills. So, when I purchased my paper wheel set-up, it took me about 3 or 4 old kitchen knives to learn how to get good results. The more I use them, the better my results have become. I also did a lot of online research and study on different techniques and paid attention to what happened when I did this, or something else while experimenting. I also learned a ton of helpful things from the wealth of information found on this forum. You can't buy that kind of education about knives and the sharpening of them for any price.

Blessings,

Omar
 
Omar, is that the same grandfather that owned my Schrade? I love that knife so much. I still haven't been able to bring myself to use it, though I have carried it several times. I *have* wondered what Taylor would say if I ever sent it in for the lifetime warranty. :D

Funny how I have no problem using a knife that cost several hundred dollars but not the 881Y. Sentimental value is a strong force.
 
Yep, he was the original owner, and I am glad it is still in the hands of someone that can appreciate it for more than "just another knife." That is why I passed it on to you as I was sure you would take pride in owning it. Happy to hear that you are enjoying it as I did, for its history and personal value.

Blessings,

Omar
 
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