A lynyard hole in the 110.

F

Fonly

Joined
Sep 24, 2006
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Hey guys, I just posted on the blade disscusion forum, and thought I would give the one a try too. Any ways what im wondering is, is it possible to drill a hole in the pommel of the 110 for a lynyard hole?
Also has any here givin this a try.

I've been told this is dangerous because of the spring,
and there is also a picture some where of a 110 with a clear handle.
Any sugestions on doing this project?

Ben
 
well as no one has answered i will the best i can
yes there were years ago when the frame had a brass spacer that many put a lanyard hole in them
today the spacer is a hard and i belived tempered steel
to drill throught it is risky with breaking bits.
to drill the brass and then use a diamond bur toget thorugh the steel then dill the brass through can be done.
there are images of sales man knives with clear sides on them on the net some ware.
that will give you a location you can drill and not hit the spring...
BE IT KNOWN
that to do so will void any warenty Buck gives on the knife.
there are many that have wished for a lanyard access but buck has not see to priovide it as yet.. perhaps it weakens the dpring or spacer too much ... i dont know ... if you do do it let us know how it went...
welcome to the palce for buck nuts! stay a spell meet the gang...
 
well thanks for the information, I definetly want to find that picture, with one side clear. But im not to worried about the worrenty, ill be paying $50 for it, so unless its mest up whenIi buy it, Ii wont be returing it. I've heard many good thing about buck knives, and how they heat treat their steel, so I beleive its time for me to give them a try.
 
Fonly,
Sure you can drill an lanyard hole. I did one in mine many years ago but I don't know how different the current 110's are so you just have to be carefull, here is a photo of mine.


Buck110right.jpg


Ciao 4now
Ron
:thumbup:
 
hey muzzleup, that looks really good, makes me fell better about doing it.
thx

Ben
 
I have had my fair share of these apart and don't recommend it. Most of the 110s and 112s too for that matter have two 1/8" brass pins in there holding the spring holder in place to begin with. Bucks springs in these knives put a lot of pressure on that holder. You can't drill in between the two rivets there or you will weaken the holder so much that I fear the spring will have its way with the knife and the lock will fail or at the least cause the upper portion of the spring holder to rotate so it sticks up off the body causing a lip. You'll know you cut the holder in half with the drill bit if this happens. Its even possible to drill it and not cut it in half but still open and access for the spring to work its way backwards into the hole you drilled where it becomes visible. Not good.

The only place to put it if you just have to have one is where its pictured but even that is a risky venture IMO. You can put one outside the spring holder but the blade may slice your lanyard each time you close your blade up.

The older knives by Buck like that one pictured had less tension on the blades and thus were sold many times in what was termed easy open pouches as I recall.These knives flick open really easy compared to modern ones. My old Buck 112 Ranger is the same way which is why they are the preferred ones to put thumb studs on due to how easy they are to open, much like any modern folder in fact as these older 110s and 112s from the 60s & 70s are much easier to open than any new one is. Going from memory Buck increased the spring tension on those knives shortly after 1980 due to worry about blades closing or something to that effect about the blades not having enough spring strength. I believe it was then or shortly around then that two pins were added but many of the easy open knives had two pins also. Needless worry if you ask me on Bucks part about those springs because the knives are fine. I have two that are well over 35 years old and have seen incredible hard use and still function fine. You can probably learn more on the reasons for the increase in spring tension and get a better scoop from some of the guys on the Buck forum that know more. Its probably worth noting that the 112s with no nail nick on the blade are the easy openers. Its also worth noting that these older knives sported 440c blade steel too.

I would not drill through the newer ones with all that tension on the spring holders if it were my own knife. You may be able to pull it off and you may even see some that have worked but at the very least it could allow the spring to move back changing the way the blade works and/or the reliability and integrity of the lock. Just FYI for whatever it is worth to anyone. If you do drill it you will want to spend the money and get you a good carbide drill. Anything else will heat up the spring holder and may damage the hardness and strength of it that way. Crank up the drill press put on gloves and clamp it down on the table and as the old saying goes, enter at your own risk.

STR

EDIT: Couldn't stand my spelling errors.
 
Here's a pic of a late-model 110 disassembled...you can get a feeling for where to drill...



(You can also see that muzzleup drilled out a teeny part of one of his brass pins) :D
 
muzzleup said:
Fonly,
Sure you can drill an lanyard hole. I did one in mine many years ago but I don't know how different the current 110's are so you just have to be carefull, here is a photo of mine.


Buck110right.jpg


Ciao 4now
Ron
:thumbup:
Click to expand...

is that a third version brass intergrated rare single pin in handle?
 
I believe it is yes. I enhanced the photo long enough to get a peek and it does seem to be one bigger pin there. Thats a much easier opening knife than the 110s being sold today. Those, like my 112 just flip right open smooth as silk when you grab the blade and let gravity take all that brass downward. There is no big stopping point half way out like on the new ones to slow it down either.

STR
 
I totally agree with STR. Don't do it. I have gotten a few back over the years because soemone tried to drill a lanyard hole. The only 110's with only one pin in the rear or spring holder end of the knife are from the late 1960's. Even with them, you run the risk of ruining whats going on with the spring holder and spring.
I will say that I have seen a couple of sucessful lanyard holes drilled but they really are the exception.
Buck did design a 110 with a lanyard hole built in but it looked kind of goofy and was never put into production. No one wanted to mess with a good thing, the 110 was very popular, still is, and to change it might hurt its popularity. I think it would be nice if we could design one that does not change the look at all, other than the hole itself, and offer it as an option.
 
Joe Houser said:
I think it would be nice if we could design one that does not change the look at all, other than the hole itself, and offer it as an option.
Click to expand...

That would be fairly easy. Just use a roll pin (stainless) one size larger than 1/8"...whatever that is...(probably 5/32")...that still has a 1/8" hole...drill the lower brass pin out to that size, and press the roll pin in...then you could thread a leather thong [or shoelace] through it... :)

Or you could use a nice stainless tube, press-fit in place...

I wouldn't think a brass pin/tube would last too long...people would be sending it in to be replaced... :D
 
I would like to see an optional spacer that extends beyond the rear bolster with a hole in it along the idea of a Randall Buxton fighter.
 
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