NJBillK
Custom Leather and Fixed Blade modifications.
- Joined
- Mar 27, 2014
- Messages
- 9,594
It took some thinking and I had to canibalize an 11 to make it but I am thinking that I have a new Favorite.
The wood I chose was Amboyna Burl and the liners are 410 stainless. The pins are solid and measure 3/16" and the pivot is a 1/4". The spine was massaged down and rounded and a swedge was added. I also pulled the heel of the blade up a touch to clear the stop pin and reduce the likelihood of knicks since it doesn't hang below the scales now.
The stock 24 is for blade shape comparison since the 11 and 24 carry the same blade profile when stock.
The 11 was always nice in hand, but I wanted a longer handle while keeping the functionality of the bottle opener. The opener was made utilizing the upper rear must hole on the handle. All I had to do was break into that premade hole by grinding out the material in front of it and then massaging it open a bit to fit a cap.
The one part that caused me some consternation was the lining up and spacing the holes for the pivot and stop pin(s). What I ended up doing was using the stop pin near the pivot as a closed position stop pin and the rear most pin as a rest for the tang to be pressed against while open. I took advantage of the spine since it has a slight downward curve to it. By shaping the back of the scales down so the tang is a little proud, there is always pressure holding the tang onto the rear most stop pin when in the opened position.
The are some small things that I will be adding; a lanyard hole in the stock location, piece of wood between the scales at lanyard spot to add some support for the lanyard (plus I think it will look pretty nice too, lol). There is some final sanding to be done, but aside from that it is pretty much finished up.
Now on to the Photos!
The wood I chose was Amboyna Burl and the liners are 410 stainless. The pins are solid and measure 3/16" and the pivot is a 1/4". The spine was massaged down and rounded and a swedge was added. I also pulled the heel of the blade up a touch to clear the stop pin and reduce the likelihood of knicks since it doesn't hang below the scales now.
The stock 24 is for blade shape comparison since the 11 and 24 carry the same blade profile when stock.
The 11 was always nice in hand, but I wanted a longer handle while keeping the functionality of the bottle opener. The opener was made utilizing the upper rear must hole on the handle. All I had to do was break into that premade hole by grinding out the material in front of it and then massaging it open a bit to fit a cap.
The one part that caused me some consternation was the lining up and spacing the holes for the pivot and stop pin(s). What I ended up doing was using the stop pin near the pivot as a closed position stop pin and the rear most pin as a rest for the tang to be pressed against while open. I took advantage of the spine since it has a slight downward curve to it. By shaping the back of the scales down so the tang is a little proud, there is always pressure holding the tang onto the rear most stop pin when in the opened position.
The are some small things that I will be adding; a lanyard hole in the stock location, piece of wood between the scales at lanyard spot to add some support for the lanyard (plus I think it will look pretty nice too, lol). There is some final sanding to be done, but aside from that it is pretty much finished up.
Now on to the Photos!
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