A New One from David Boye (long)

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Jan 21, 2000
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I know this is a little long, but I have no website to link to, so here goes:

A few days before leaving for a vacation with my wife and daughter in Las Vegas last year, I called David Boye to ask for information on some back roads in northern Arizona. I quickly get tired of the glitz and clamor of Vegas, but love to get into a 4WD vehicle and head into the vastness of the “Great Basin” outback. Over the years, David has built more than a dozen custom knives of all kinds for my brother and myself, and after giving me the info I needed, he graciously invited me to come by for a visit at his home and shop complex in the little town of Dolan Springs, AZ. I gratefully accepted.

As we prowled around his shop discussing comparative metallurgy, I told him I had never fully converted to his dendritic cobalt blades for two reasons. First, he had told me himself the cobalt was not as hard or strong as his dendritic steel blades. And second, I liked his dendritic steel so much I saw no reason to change to cobalt. I had done some edge testing with one of his steel blades, and it proved to be one of the most efficient cutters I’ve ever used. I asked him if there was a reason the cobalt was better, other than the fact it is inert to corrosives such as salt water and most acids. He said, simply, “The cobalt cuts better and holds an edge longer.” Okay, he had me.

I related to him that another customer of his, sheathmaker Gary Graley, agreed with him that the dendritic cobalt cut like nothing else, and I also mentioned what admiration I held for Gary’s standards of sharpness. I’ve handled knives sharpened by Gary, and he has an unusual talent for imparting awesome edges. If he said David’s cobalt cut better, I believed it--but what about durability? I’m most interested in hunting knives, and I worried that deflection off bone during field dressing and butchering might be more than a fine cobalt edge could take.

By way of an answer, David rummaged around and came up with a cobalt folder that had been used as a test knife on a deep-sea kayaking expedition. It had obviously seen a lot of hard use, as the area just above the edge was visibly worn and the knife had a generally battered look, although still solid in operation. He trued up the edge with what looked like a little ceramic stone, and then tried it by crisply cutting a few pieces off a 1” ship’s halyard which he kept for test purposes. (His target market these days is comprised of saltwater sailors and fishermen—check out his website at www.boyeknives.com)

He looked around his shop and said, “Let’s try this...”, walking over to the base-plate of some kind of machine, possibly a drill press. It was a rectangular, solid plate of steel bolted to his workbench. He took the edge of the cobalt knife and placed it against a corner edge of the steel plate, making a shallow shaving motion. To my surprise, he cut a little sliver from the edge of the steel. “Can I try that?” I blurted. “Sure,” he said, “just don’t cut too deep.”

Using the same motion he had demonstrated, I surprised myself by successfully lifting another little steel shaving from the edge of the plate. To my even greater surprise, I ran my thumbnail along the knife’s edge and felt not the least bit of deformation after having cut the steel. “I thought this stuff was supposed to be soft,” I remarked. “Well, it’s softer than my hardened steel blades, but it will still cut mild steel,” he explained. “And certainly harder than any bone,” I added. He nodded.

“What about grinding a really thin edge on the cobalt, though—like the edges you put on my dendritic steel hunters?” I asked. He shrugged, walked over to retrieve a caliper, and closed its jaws on the dendritic edge of the folder we’d just shaved steel with. He turned the face of the gauge up so I could see it, and I grinned, shaking my head—the edge mic’d right at 5/1000ths of an inch. “Jeez!” was all I could muster.

We continued the tour, ending up at a table with some rough blade blanks ready for finishing and assembly. One caught my eye—a 6” blade destined to become a “Galley Chef’s Knife”, one of the newer models showcased on his website. I picked it up and felt its heft, surprised by how sturdy it was. “That spine is almost 3/16” thick—on a chef’s knife?” I asked. “I like to build them so they’ll stand up to just about any use someone could reasonably ask of one,” he replied.

I mentioned that hunting in south Texas, we are using longer hunting blades these days, because we now completely bone out our “big three” game animals -- deer, wild boar, and nilgai antelope -- in the field. Even in November and December, temperatures often rise into the 80’s in the borderlands, and we’ve found it best to butcher game in the field when it gets that hot, putting the meat directly onto ice, rather than hanging a carcass and risking spoilage in the heat.

“That chef’s blade would make a fine field-butchering knife with just a little re-profiling,” I mused. “Well, if I start grinding on it, you’ve bought it,” he grinned. I must have looked like a kid who finally caught Santa in the living room. Soon, I was experiencing the perfect end to an amazing day—David Boye hand-grinding a blade to my own specifications, right in front of me.

As you can see from the comparison photo of my knife in a post below, shown lying on top of a picture of his standard Galley Chef’s Knife, he shaved about ¼” of width from the widest part of the blade and in the process thinned the tip down into a finer working point. He later added a mammoth-ivory spacer and finished it off with a select piece of desert ironwood burl.

The flat-ground blade transitions into a slightly convex, Moran-like edge bevel, with 6” cutting edge and 11.5” overall length. The knife weighs 7.5 oz. and balances at the front of the ivory spacer, with the proven ergonomics inherent in David’s handle design. Just an incredibly beautiful, ultra-high-performance piece, and the perfect field butcher knife, IMHO.

The cutting performance on ½” sisal rope has been phenomenal, and though I’ve not done any long-run cutting tests with it, subjectively it out-cuts every other blade I have on pull-cuts through hard rope—including my other Boye hunters. By subjectively, I mean that by feel, it obviously parts the rope more quickly and with less effort than any other knife I own.

Also, after multiple pull cuts through very hard, sisal-fiber rope, the extra-fine edge has shown no deformation or flattening under 30x magnification. That’s about as hard a material as I expect to cut with this blade, as it’s meant for use primarily on raw hide and meat. As happy as I am with its performance and durability so far, I can assure you I will not be lending it to anyone—it will come out of its sheath exclusively for use by my own hand (and for the occasional show-and-tell).

Can’t wait to try it in the field, but looks like that will be next year as our deer season here is all but over. Never know, though—I might have to schedule a late-winter hog hunt just for an excuse to try out this big boy(e). Voila:
 
Here's a photo of my knife lying on top of a picture of David's standard Galley Chef's Knife, for comparison. The picture of the chef's knife is not full-size, so you have to take that into consideration when measuring the differences with your eye. Note particularly the ratio of the width of the blade to the width of the bolster on each knife. Mine was slimmed down significantly, but retains the general chef's profile, with enough drop to the edge to act as a serviceable guard:
 
Fantastic writeup, Will. I enjoyed your vivid retelling. I am always surprised how well he is doing with his target market (mostly sailors knives), up in Arizona. :)

Thanks for your time. You gleaned the best part of that custom knife purchase back in AZ. The relationship!

Coop
 
Looks great Will.Thanks for sharing the experience it was fun to read.
 
Thanks Stumpy and Coop! I appreciate the kind words and you're absolutely right, Coop--the friendships I've enjoyed with knifemakers and fellow knife fanatics are some of my most treasured, even though many of them I've not met face-to-face.

Here's the knife sheathed and ready to go:
 
Howdy, Michael-

Yes, the standard model, with its broad blade and generously dropped edge, is a great profile for kitchen/galley use. And the fine edge in that aggressive dendritic cobalt is an amazingly efficient cutter. Great edge life and absolutely no reaction with the acids and salts found in foods. From the metallurgy spec charts on Cobalt 6 alloys, it looks like you could drop this blade in the ocean and in a hundred years fish it out again, and the blade would look just the same.

Always nice to hear from you,

Will
 
Will, that is the kind of info that I really enjoy reading about. Thanks for posting it and I'm now interested in his work!!
 
Thanks for the kind words, Berettaman. I'm glad you enjoyed the piece, and I'm sure if you decide to try one of David's blades you'll be delighted by the experience.
 
Originally posted by WILL YORK
We continued the tour, ending up at a table with some rough blade blanks ready for finishing and assembly. One caught my eye—a 6” blade destined to become a “Galley Chef’s Knife”, one of the newer models showcased on his website. I picked it up and felt its heft, surprised by how sturdy it was. “That spine is almost 3/16” thick—on a chef’s knife?” I asked. “I like to build them so they’ll stand up to just about any use someone could reasonably ask of one,” he replied.

What sort of cutting performance would you get out of this knife? A 6 inch blade with a 3/16ths spine sounds awful thick to be a good kitchen knife. Maybe I'm just biased by my Japanese kitchen knives? :confused:

The blade material sounds like a real winner in a better overall profile and geometery.
 
Originally posted by Sid Post
A 6 inch blade with a 3/16ths spine sounds awful thick to be a good kitchen knife.

Howdy, Sid-

My brother owns a set of David's chef knives designed specifically for kitchen use, and they are are not nearly so thick at the spine--more like 1/8 inch at the ricasso and tapering very thin toward the point. I think the Galley Chef's Knife design is beefier because, onboard a boat, you never know what tasks a knife might be called on to perform outside the galley. As David told me, he wanted it to stand up to whatever someone could reasonably ask.

He might be willing to make a set of chef's knives based on his old designs, but his dendritic blades are cast in "trees", so it would have to be a special run--I imagine you'd have to wait a while for the order. Just ask--he'll let you know.

Will
 
Originally posted by Sid Post
What sort of cutting performance would you get out of this knife?

In terms of cutting performance at the edge (and the blade is nice and thin a good ways back from the edge even on my modified Chef's profile), as I said this blade breezes through hard rope like nothing else I have, and that's the best test of cutting efficiency I know of.

Will
 
Nice thread Will, and I'll be needing to give David a call, as I would like to get a small Cobalt fixed blade from him some time soon. That Cobalt really does have a great slicing action, very hard to beat! Amazing story on that cutting of the steel, wouldn't have thought it could do that! you did walk away with a folder too didn't you? ;)
G2
 
Originally posted by Gary W. Graley
you did walk away with a folder too didn't you?

Howdy, G2-

I was hoping you'd see this thread. As a matter of fact I did pick up one of his serrated "rescue" style folders:

http://www.boyeknives.com/prod_photo.cfm?photo=boye2.jpg&name=Sheepsfoot Blade

No point and a very aggressive edge, which combine for a lot of quick rough-cutting power in situations where you don't want anything pointy pricking things that shouldn't be pricked. The serrations are long, shallow arcs designed to resist hanging up on rope or fabric. Great utility blade in a relatively indestructable package--especially welcome living near the Gulf. I carry it in the side-pocket of my truck door, and won't worry about it getting damp and rusty--I don't know of a more rust-prone environment than the salt-laden air along the southern Texas coast. ATS34 will rust easily here if you leave a breath of moisture on it for a few days.

Great to hear from you, as always.

Will
 
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