A newbie, forge welding mild with carbon steel

Liam Ryan

Liam Ryan

Joined
Sep 26, 2005
Messages
3,516
Hey guys, I have a question for you and searching the forum I didnt come up with an answer, so here it goes.

Lacking the correct dimensions of carbon steel to make a flat stock tomahawk much like the ones available from RMJ forge and K5 tactical, I had one cut out for me from a big piece of mild steel.

After working on it for a while I liked it so much I wanted to get a decent edge on it, it was great except for this 4 inches of cutting edge, so I figured I would do what many traditional blacksmiths do which was sandwhich a thin layer of carbon steel in between the mild steel.

So my question is, does mild steel forge to carbon steel easier then mild to mild? I know M to M is much harder/needs higher temperatures, but I think I recall hearing M to C is easier, like damascus billets.
I could just hacksaw along where the edge would be and jam in a slice of bandsaw steel, heat to light orange, apply flux and smack a few times.

I do plan on doing it right with some decent steel in the future, but I like this axe and have already invested a bit of time into it already, just want to know if I am wasting my time on this idea, so any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks guys!

LR
 
Yes M to C is easier than M to M. But it is a little more complicated than sawing a slit and sticking in a bit.The welding heat is going to be about the same as doing damascus.Your basic premise will work, you will want a bit piece at least 1/8"X1".Cut the edge back about 3/4" and slice in about 1/2 to 3/4".Spread the cut to take the bit. Grind and shape the bit piece to an edge so it fits in the cut snugly. Once all fits well,tack weld it on each end,then bring it up to welding heat, applying flux as you go,set the weld gently,and then forge out the 'bump' and new edge.If you don't cut back the edge to start with,the hawk will get a lot longer than it was.
Stacy
 
The hawk doesnt have an edge yet, it was the last step along with the last polishing. the cut should flare outas to squeeze the flux out, correct?
About the thickness, the stock is 1/4 inch, and my bandsaw blade is 1/16,
can I get away with that or should I use a 1/8 file i have lying around?
Also, if I make the cut almost as thick as my bit, I wont need to worry about the bump so much and making a snug fit should be easier, right?

Thanks for the help, I am pretty excited to do my first real project, I dont really have much in the way of a shop setup at the moment, only files, a hacksaw, and my indispensible vice, so i'm relying on borrowing grinders and torches and such. Any other advice would be much appreciated:o



LR
 
It won't work to make is a precise fit. You will have to have some extra to weld,forge to shape,and grind.The 1/16 is too thin.Use 1/8 as a minimum.The bit should extend back about 1/2 to 3/4 from the final edge.
 
I was just going to file it out once it was welded, I have never forged before.
I know im putting the cart before the horse but I am excited to try it out anyway
 
Liam, If you have never forged at all,starting off by forge welding a bit into a hawk may be a bit too much.Have a maker who does this do it for you.It is much easier to do it when making the hawk then after the fact.Perhaps you would do best to use this one as a practice piece,and have another made from O-1 ,1050,or something similar.
 
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