I am wanting to make a nice knife in that in would not see very heavy duty. I am intending it to be a gift, and it must look nice above all. I have some unbelievable walnut scraps whith wicked grain-- black, purple, gold. Man, it's awesome stuff. If you think it will be too unstable, I could be convinced to use a harder, exotic wood. The knife will be a small folder if that helps with the stability question. But the main question is still the finish. I want a deep look with a smooth, grainless surface texture (that's the most important).
-
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
A nice wood finish ?
- Thread starter bigtim
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 19, 1999
- Messages
- 3,560
On a folder the scales will be fairly thin so you can use a trick that some makers use to give a smooth grainless surface and gives the wood stability.
After the scales are cut, drilled and shaped but before they are pinned or epoxied to the knife, sand the scales as smooth as possible than massage crazy glue into the surface of both sides. This will take several coats with walnut but the finish will be worth it.
If you like a shiny surface the surface can be buffed after the final fine sanding.
The glue will fill the pores and protect the wood from moisture which could cause it to warp or crack.
------------------
george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com
After the scales are cut, drilled and shaped but before they are pinned or epoxied to the knife, sand the scales as smooth as possible than massage crazy glue into the surface of both sides. This will take several coats with walnut but the finish will be worth it.
If you like a shiny surface the surface can be buffed after the final fine sanding.
The glue will fill the pores and protect the wood from moisture which could cause it to warp or crack.
------------------
george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com
- Joined
- Dec 14, 1998
- Messages
- 4,870
I use linseed oil and bee's wax melted into a mix. I soak the handle for a few days . Then finish it out. George is right stabelized wood is you best bet if you want glass finish
------------------
Web Site At www.infinet.com/~browzer/bldesmth.html
Take a look!!!
------------------
Web Site At www.infinet.com/~browzer/bldesmth.html
Take a look!!!
yeah but keep the acetone handy for when you glue all your fingers together and to the workbench and the wood and your face...
------------------
http://www.mayoknives.com
------------------
http://www.mayoknives.com
Walnut needs to be sealed I will definately agree to that, if not stabilized. to seal it you can use any good sanding sealer with 2 to 3 coats then as a final finish use Danish oil. It will give you a very good high finish.
------------------
Curtis Wilson
------------------
Curtis Wilson
Danish oil is a nice sealer and finish, but the top of the chart is epoxy.
Simply mix a small amount of clear epoxy, rub it onto the wood and immediately take a cloth and rub all of it off that you can. Leave it for a day. Steel wool it and repeat the previous step. Do this for a minimum of six iterations. Great finish and impervious to all but nuclear attack. I've used it for thirty years on things as small as folder scales, as large as rifle stocks, and on actual hundreds of handgun stocks.
------------------
Regards,
Desert Rat
Simply mix a small amount of clear epoxy, rub it onto the wood and immediately take a cloth and rub all of it off that you can. Leave it for a day. Steel wool it and repeat the previous step. Do this for a minimum of six iterations. Great finish and impervious to all but nuclear attack. I've used it for thirty years on things as small as folder scales, as large as rifle stocks, and on actual hundreds of handgun stocks.
------------------
Regards,
Desert Rat
- Joined
- Jun 29, 1999
- Messages
- 9,828
Danish oil or any of the various tung oil finishes works well. I treated the nice Arctic birch handle of my Roselli hunter after a week-long hunting trip where it was exposed to everything from rain to campsite cookery to the inside of a moose. It brought it back looking just like new. I used to use boiled linseed oil on my ax handles but the Danish oil seems to be a lot more water resistant.
CRAZY GLUE....USE THE HOT KIND...IS THE EASIEST....FASTEST...AND NICEST....TRY IT... AND DONT GLUE YOUR FINGER TO YOUR CHEEK.
-post script....i usually take it down to about 400 grit.....almost finished....and then crazy glue the #@x%&V out of it....use plenty...and then final sand with 600 until it looks really even and nice...and then buff.....glass finish....especially on the softer hardwoods like you are going to use...works really good on cracks on the super hard woods that need no finish..like cocobolo and desert ironwood...-----------------
http://www.mayoknives.com
[This message has been edited by tom mayo (edited 25 July 1999).]
-post script....i usually take it down to about 400 grit.....almost finished....and then crazy glue the #@x%&V out of it....use plenty...and then final sand with 600 until it looks really even and nice...and then buff.....glass finish....especially on the softer hardwoods like you are going to use...works really good on cracks on the super hard woods that need no finish..like cocobolo and desert ironwood...-----------------
http://www.mayoknives.com
[This message has been edited by tom mayo (edited 25 July 1999).]