a question about performing a conversion on a standard kiln

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dobi

Joined
Aug 4, 2013
Messages
7
hey guys
I've been doing a conversion on a kiln (intended for clay), meaning im adding a temperature controller to the kiln itself. Didn't think i could explain it properly with words or pictures so i did a quick video. Any help i can get would be appreciated especially from people who did something similar to me, or possibly electricians :)

[video=youtube;bzZ6E-ygbNg]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzZ6E-ygbNg[/video]
 
The TC creates a few millivolts of power at a microamp or two. There is no worry or concern to cover it.
 
As Stacy says, it's not enough to hurt. At 1000 degC (1832 degF) a type K thermocouple only outputs 43 mV. You might just about detect it if you put your tongue across the terminals, but the heat conducted up the thermocouple would pose a far greater risk.

It's not clear from the video what cable you are using, though it could just be aging eyes and colorblindness. You need to use the correct cable for the thermocouple type you are using (probably type K). If it's a type K, you'll need either type K extension cable or type K compensating cable. You need to connect the cores correctly too. Wrong cable or wrong connection will lead to errors.
 
thanks for you help fellas.
I got the kiln itself as a gift from a friend, i then went out and bought a kit to add a temperature control to the kiln (so i imagine it would have the correct components and cables). However it does take just over an hour to reach 2000 degF, from my understanding That could be a tad slow for some stainless steels. Could anybody recommend some stainless steels with a lower hardening temperature, any help will be very much appreciated.:)
 
dobi said:
it does take just over an hour to reach 2000 degF
Click to expand...

This is why I tore my pottery kiln apart and reused the bricks, like, base, sheet metal, and coils to build a proper knife kiln. The large volume causes it to heat slow. It heats faster when you remove the unwanted air space by making it smaller.

I can't think of any steel that would be able to withstand such a slow heat because of the amount of scale the blade would form from being in such a hot environment so long.
 
Dobi, you don't have a location in your profile, but sound vaguely Antipodean to me in the video.

If you are in a part of the world with 50 Hz, 240V mains power, you might be better off looking on an Aussie forum, or maybe British Blades, for wiring information, as US wiring practices are very different.

Either way, I'd suggest building the control box completely separate from the HT kiln, so you can easily swap it to a new oven when you get around to building one. It's what I did with mine.

 
I converted a very similar kiln and converted to 240 v, that will speed it up a lot. You put in two coils in series and connect 110v line to each end. Maybe something to think about later, hour is not bad, it takes time to get your steel ready and sealed in foil, you are sealing in foil, right???
 
i guess so. bit of a noobish question but how important is foil, from my understanding its purpose is to reduce decarb of the steel
 
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