A question about sharpening Case knives

el gigantor

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Hey folks, I've got a yellow delrin Case Sodbuster in CV steel that's a snap to touch-up and sharpen. The retailer I buy from just posted a great selection of large stockmans and I think I've narrowed it down to 2 micarta variants. They're both outfitted in Stainless steel though which I have no experience with. I was wondering if Case's SS is noticeably more tricky or difficult to put an edge on than their Carbon offerings. Thanks and happy holidays!
 
I'm not familiar with Case carbon. The Case SS is no problem to sharpen. I use a Sharpmaker at 20 dps, which seems to be the stock angle.
Hope this helps.
 
I just have a grey Arkansas stone and it does a great job on it. I've had two stainless Case knives, both were older but they took a great edge. Normal stainless (not the fancy stuff) usually takes a couple extra minutes compared to carbon steel. Nothing to really worry about.
 
Hey folks, I've got a yellow delrin Case Sodbuster in CV steel that's a snap to touch-up and sharpen. The retailer I buy from just posted a great selection of large stockmans and I think I've narrowed it down to 2 micarta variants. They're both outfitted in Stainless steel though which I have no experience with. I was wondering if Case's SS is noticeably more tricky or difficult to put an edge on than their Carbon offerings. Thanks and happy holidays!

If you're happy with the results you get with your CV Sod Buster, you don't have to change a thing to sharpen Case's SS. You'll be able to use the same set up and stones you use for your CV for SS.
 
Cases SS sharpens nearly as well as the CV and takes a great easy edge. The biggest difference you might see is in thickness behind your edge. The sodbuster jr. is very thin in that regard and gets very keen very easily. The large stockman is still thin but not soddie jr thin.
 
I've had extensive experience sharpening Cases stainless. I don't particularly care for it. It gets a micro burr that is hard to remove sometimes. I carry a 6.5375 Pattern Jumbo Stockman in stainless daily though. I usually can get about 3 or 4 stroppings between having to stone. I will use either a soft Arkansas stone or a fine DMT when stoning. Don't get me wrong, it's not bad, but case's stainless is somewhat harder to sharpen than bucks 420HC and Old Timer's (the old) 440A and 1095.
 
If you're happy with the results you get with your CV Sod Buster, you don't have to change a thing to sharpen Case's SS. You'll be able to use the same set up and stones you use for your CV for SS.

I think that's one of the things that always draws me back to Case knives.

I can use them and enjoy them without having to study, experiment and spend additional money.
 
I've had extensive experience sharpening Cases stainless. I don't particularly care for it. It gets a micro burr that is hard to remove sometimes. I carry a 6.5375 Pattern Jumbo Stockman in stainless daily though. I usually can get about 3 or 4 stroppings between having to stone. I will use either a soft Arkansas stone or a fine DMT when stoning. Don't get me wrong, it's not bad, but case's stainless is somewhat harder to sharpen than bucks 420HC and Old Timer's (the old) 440A and 1095.
It’s true that it seems to burr easily, and feel soft compared to bucks, I find it faster to apex than a Buck however, bucks 420 HC feels so slippery on a stone probably due to the higher hardness, takes longer to remove steel compared to tru sharp but holds the edge longer for sure.
 
In my humble option, in a blind sharpening test I could not tell the difference. One takes a patina, and that’s the difference in my book.
 
Case's stainless will burr a little more than their carbon/CV blades. And Case has mentioned on their own forum that their stainless was hardened a couple points lower than their CV steel. The spec'd hardness for their stainless is HRC 55-57 - so that would imply their CV blades were likely in the HRC 57-59 range of hardness.

That being said, neither steel has much abrasion resistance in the form of very hard carbides. This means either of them will easily grind on most any type of sharpening media, be it natural (Arkansas) stones, aluminum oxide, SiC, diamond, etc. I've REALLY liked how both steels respond to a Fine India stone (used with oil). Incidentally, I also favor the Fine India for Buck's blades in 420HC. Both grind & hone easily on that stone, with the only noticeable difference being that Buck's slightly harder blades will be easier to clean up of burrs. But both of them are simple anyway.

I think Case's stainless takes and holds a relatively toothy edge better (as left by the ~ 400-grit India) than it will hold a highly polished edge. The apex gets kind of fragile when taken very high in finish. Their CV blades will do somewhat better at high finish than the stainless will.

As to the thinness of Case's stainless edges, I've been impressed with the thin grinds on their '75 pattern stockman. That's my favorite Case pattern and I have several of them - all but one of them in their stainless steel, which is just fine in that pattern. On the '75 stockman, the sheepfoot blade's grind is the thinnest I've seen on any production traditional pattern, from any maker.
 
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On the '75 stockman, the sheepfoot blade's grind is the thinnest I've seen on any production traditional pattern, from any maker.
I challenge that- the GEC #35 Churchill from 2017 is the thinnest sheepfoot blade grind.
I'll let that one have second place. ;)
 
I’ve gotten satisfactory results with a Spyderco sharpmaker and then finish with a stop. I don’t think the SS is noticeably any more difficult to sharpen than the carbon or CV, but I definitely get what guys are saying about the toothyness on the SS.
 
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